Aluminum car trailer vs steel

   / Aluminum car trailer vs steel #1  

plowhog

Elite Member
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Dec 8, 2015
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Location
North. NV, North. CA
Tractor
Massey 1710 / 1758, Ventrac 4500Y / TD9
I have a gas motorhome. I want to tow a car-- either 4 wheels down (car only) or on a trailer. Weight is a concern as there are mountains in every direction.

I found a lightweight trailer-- but it is aluminum. I know nothing about aluminum trailers. Is aluminum up to the rigors of road transport with the load of a vehicle on top?

I'm looking at a 7x14 trailer, with 4" tubes. Or their slightly beefier model with 5" tubes-- 7x16. Only about 100lbs heavier.

So, anyone have comments on the strength and durability of aluminum trailers in this application?

Here is a trailer I am considering:

 
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   / Aluminum car trailer vs steel #2  
Me, I wouldn't ever consider an aluminum trailer for anything. More prone to cracking at the welds or severe stress points and when they do crack, they are hard to repair as they have to be very clean and not everyone can repair them. I say that as a welder for almost 50 years with both steel (majority) and aluminum.
As for the design "channel tongue" another nope, go with tubing. If you ever get into a situation where it's loaded to the max or on a rough road, you're looking for cracked diagonal braces where they're under the front edge of the deck from flexing. IMHO the best style of tongue is one that is a single center tube that goes back two preferably three bunks and two diagonal braces (same idea as what they have now) from the coupler back a couple of bunks either side.
ST tires, I'd go with LT tires, something with some steel belts, not just all nylon.
Just my two cents (1.5 canadian :) ) worth
 
   / Aluminum car trailer vs steel
  • Thread Starter
#3  
the best style of tongue is one that is a single center tube that goes back two preferably three bunks and two diagonal braces
Something like this only with tube not channel?
CompositeTongue.jpg
 
   / Aluminum car trailer vs steel #4  
First, do those trailers do what you need?
7000 lbs GVWR - 1500 lbs load = 5500 lbs. That should carry most cars, but also give it a bit of redundancy, so perhaps a car up to about 4000 lbs???

I picked up an older ALUMA brand trailer. I think having some abuse before I got it. I haven't used it much yet, and need to do some "tuning" on it. For some reason, at least some of the brakes were disconnected, so that needs fixed.

The biggest problem is a "Y" shaped tongue as above. 2 bolts hold the hitch on, and they've hogged out the attachment point and the whole hitch is mighty loose.

I'm going to replace the hitch attachment with a piece of tube steel to go over the aluminum tongue extension,

The decking is a little washboarded, especially on the ramps. So, the truss decking design isn't good enough to keep it in good cosmetic shape.

Will the trailer ultimately be useful? Absolutely YES.
Will it replace my 10K utility trailer? NOPE.
 
   / Aluminum car trailer vs steel #5  
Oh, Mom & Dad had an all aluminum horse/stock trailer (3 or 4 horses) built a while ago. It did very well for their use. Perhaps a few aluminum repairs around the rear door hinges or latch, but overall it held up very well, perhaps better than many of the big brand trailers that are around.

Aluminum can do well in the right environment.
 
   / Aluminum car trailer vs steel #6  
What are you towing? I've been flat towing since the mid 80's but I only do wranglers and a samurai.
 
   / Aluminum car trailer vs steel
  • Thread Starter
#7  
What are you towing?
Either a Jeep Wrangler, or a Honda Fit. The Fit weighs less, 2,600lbs vs about 3,400.

But if I have a trailer I could put a Polaris ATV / motorcycles on it instead.

I still have my towbar but its overkill since I used to dingy tow a quad cab 4wd pickup truck. Behind the 600hp ISX Cummins diesel I didn't even know it was there. A whole different ballgame with a small gas coach. I have the Ford 7.3 Godzilla engine, but even so, I'm already down to 50mph going up Sherwin grade out of Bishop, CA. Without towing. Then another 4 similar mountain passes before I get home. My max two capacity is 5,000.
 
   / Aluminum car trailer vs steel #8  
Something like this only with tube not channel?
Yup, except the main tongue is back further so it's under one more bunk.and the diagonals are bit further forward toward the coupler.
 
   / Aluminum car trailer vs steel #9  
I wouldn't be afraid of an aluminum trailer at all, considering your application. 8 years ago I bought an Aluma Model 7816 all-aluminum trailer and it has held up perfectly despite being used mostly on washboardy dirt roads. It has thousands upon thousands of miles on it - I've towed a car on it to Texas from Nevada, and my Jeep all over the west coast and my side by side also. I've had to do NOTHING as far as repairs to it. I did paint it white because I preferred that to the aluminum color (deck is aluminum also); I also mounted a 4' high piece of plywood across the front because gravel off the towing vehicle's tires was messing up paint and glass on whatever was on the trailer. The fenders are quick and easy to remove in case the car doors don't clear.
P1001261ertbn6-22-24.jpg


P1090553ertbn6-22-24.jpg


P1018645er.jpg
 
   / Aluminum car trailer vs steel #10  
Either a Jeep Wrangler, or a Honda Fit. The Fit weighs less, 2,600lbs vs about 3,400.

But if I have a trailer I could put a Polaris ATV / motorcycles on it instead.

I still have my towbar but its overkill since I used to dingy tow a quad cab 4wd pickup truck. Behind the 600hp ISX Cummins diesel I didn't even know it was there. A whole different ballgame with a small gas coach. I have the Ford 7.3 Godzilla engine, but even so, I'm already down to 50mph going up Sherwin grade out of Bishop, CA. Without towing. Then another 4 similar mountain passes before I get home. My max two capacity is 5,000.
plowhog

As suggested by Hughman flat towing is a clear option with a vehicle that can be flat towed. Plus you save the weight of the trailer that will be a great help pulling your long grades.

The trailer is only necessary if you want the trailer for other uses which sounds like you might.

I have rented 24 foot Uhaul trucks with the 7.3 Ford Godzilla engine and it is fine except with the long grades. It will never be a 600HP ISX Cummins Diesel as you already have commented.

Spanky
 

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