Alternative to concrete slab?

[raykos]

I'm thinking about a 24x24 shop/tractor garage, not sure if it will be stick built, a kit, a metal building, etc., still researching & evaluating, but no matter what kind of structure I go with, it still needs a floor.

Most garages have a poured concrete slab, but if possible, I'd like to get away from that. So, I'm wondering, are there any alternatives to a concrete slab?

I'm retired, and have the time, so I was contemplating building a pressure treated wooden floor. But then I thought about spilled chemicals like gasoline, deisel fuel, oil, etc. soaking into the wood and the fire hazard that would present. Does anybody know if theres such a thing as a fireproof paint or some kind of fireproof material that can be applied to pressure treated lumber?

 

[JDGREEN4ME]

I will be interested to see responses to this as we are planning a 24' x 24' garage next spring and at this point were planning on putting it up on a concrete slab.

 

[vic4news]

I've been in a couple of garages with pressure treated wooden floors set on a concrete piers. They seem fine if all you use them for is storage, but for working on vehicles and/or a shop, I prefer a concrete floor. Easier to move around on, clean up spills, won't catch on fire.

Vic

 

[EddieWalker]

I've just started building a 20x20 shop that will have plywood floors for a client. It's in a location that it's not practical for pour a cement slab, so I'm doing it pier and beam.

I'm not using preassure treated plwyood either, just your standard tonge and groove 3/4 inch plywood over 2x8 floor joists on 16 inch centers.

As for spills and build up on the plywood, they are planning on putting down a rubber mat to park the mower on. More important to them then the spills, which we never really discussed, was keeping it clean and dry.

To keep it simple and under budget, I'm just building a dirt ramp up to the floor. I'll have some concrete blocks for the sides and to transition from the dirt to the shop, but otherwise, it's just the dirt from the footings that I will dig. We agreed that if it doesn't work out for them, we can always build something fancier, but I think the dirt ramp will work out fine. It's only coming up a foot and I have 12 feet to create a gradual slope.

Eddie

 

[CurlyDave]

I have used the 12"x12"x2" concrete pavers in a shed, and I don't see why they wouldn't work in a larger garage.

I suspect they would be at least as much work as a concrete slab.

As I see it, your building will need concrete footers of some kind, so why not do the floor at the same time?

 

[datanull]

it still needs a floor.

Dirt? AKA Cob.

WebLife: Cob Builders Handbook: Cob floor surface

 

[bpsooner]

Dirt? AKA Cob.

WebLife: Cob Builders Handbook: Cob floor surface

Never heard of it. I wonder had it compares to concrete. I need to put a floor in my 30x50 and I am planning on concrete. This sounds interesting!

 

[flusher]

I'm thinking about a 24x24 shop/tractor garage, not sure if it will be stick built, a kit, a metal building, etc., still researching & evaluating, but no matter what kind of structure I go with, it still needs a floor.

Most garages have a poured concrete slab, but if possible, I'd like to get away from that. So, I'm wondering, are there any alternatives to a concrete slab?

I'm retired, and have the time, so I was contemplating building a pressure treated wooden floor. But then I thought about spilled chemicals like gasoline, deisel fuel, oil, etc. soaking into the wood and the fire hazard that would present. Does anybody know if theres such a thing as a fireproof paint or some kind of fireproof material that can be applied to pressure treated lumber?

Gee, with your TLB you have the right tool to level the jobsite and dig the perimeter foundation trench for a slab.

Instead of using your carpentry skills to build some type of wooden floor, build and set the forms you need for a slab, which is what you really want to spend your $$$ on for a decent shop.

Then hire 2 or 3 guys who work concrete and pour the slab on a Saturday. A slab like you want is a few hours work for guys who know what they're doing.

 

[Willl]

If I had the time to repeat what Flusher said, I would.

 

[shinnlinger]

Why do you want to get away from concrete?

I think you will find concrete to be cheaper than most wooden alternatives especially if you are comparing PT lumber and consider longevity and future maintenance.

Concrete is the second most widely used substance on earth ( first is water) and it embodies alot of energy that makes it frowned on by environmentalists.

That said, when it is done right it is virtually forever and if you have to tear out a wooden deck and replace it in ten years I would argue concrete is the better environmental alternative.

I have seen cob and linseed oil dirt floors. Both are fine for a living space or a garden shed, and can be quite striking, you can run pex tubing in it to heat, but it won't hold up great to cars and heavy equipment and surprisingly it doesn't have the thermal mass of concrete. You can however patch your floor from time to time with either mixture and maybe that is OK for what you are doing.

You can also mix cement with your local dirt pile (farmer concrete) and maybe some sand and this can hold up OK as well, I had a buddy who did this and it could dent if you dropped a big pipe wrench on it. ( as would linseed or cob) but it made an acceptable floor for his wood shop.

If you were only using it as a shop, any of the three would probably be OK, but if you are going to make a habit of running your 50 horse tractor with loaded tires in it I don't think you will be very happy for very long.

Maybe you could do a cob floor with concrete paver runways for the tractor tires?

To add to what FLusher said, When I poured a concrete slab and stemwall for my shop in Oregon, I re-used the formboards for the subfloor in my shop attic. You can also usually rent forms from your local concrete guys and as Flusher suggested, Have some one who is an experienced finisher do your slab. A smooth floor is very important. I will also advise against expansion joints. A creeper rolls over a crack much better than a joint...