Ahat caulk to use for concrete patio/brick wall interface?

[newbury]

What caulk to use for concrete patio/brick wall interface?

I've about 50 feet of brick house wall joined by concrete patio. It leaks. Apparently when built it wasn't done with proper flashing.

I've tried DAP Concrete and Mortar filler, that worked for a few years, but deteriorated.

The area gets strong sunlight from about noon on.
Any suggestions for a better product?
/edit it leaks between the wall and the concrete.

 

[/pine]

What/where is it leaking??...mortar joints? seam at the base of the brick wall?

The patio is poured up against the brick?

 

[RNeumann]

Proper flashing. Not cheap or easy but it sounds like you have trapped moisture that won’t be fixed with a chemical applied to the surface.

 

[Redlands Okie]

Your request raises a lot of questions. If water is coming through the walls mortar joints its a whole different issue. But to try to answer a question of a good caulk between concrete and brick check out URETHANE caulks. Several brands available at contractor and box stores. It’s available in a self leveling (consistency like thick syrup) or like normal caulk. Various colors also. Backer rod should be used.
If the gap is growing then nothing will hold up. Whatever you do keep silicone away. The area must be clean for best results. That includes previous failed products.
Warning, it will not come out or off your cloths, carpet, furniture, etc. best not to run it through a cloths dryer until its had several days to cure.

A couple of links to a couple of good brand names.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sikaflex-29-oz-Gray-Self-Leveling-Sealant-106711/202523824

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/caulk-and-sealants/caulk/1508480

TITEBOND Gray Self-Leveling Concrete Floor Joint Sealant, 1.1 oz. Cartridge, Coverage':' 31 ft. '@' 1'/'4" x 1'/'4" - 2GXU1'|'3191 - Grainger

MasterSeal NP 1 elastomeric polyurethane sealant

MasterSeal SL 1

 

[/pine]

.../edit it leaks between the wall and the concrete.

This is not an application where typical flashing would be employed...generally the concrete/patio would be pitched away from the wall...
...if the area is exposed to excessive storm water a surface drain channel should have been installed along the length of the wall...

There's always this stuff:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Flex-Seal-...MIyo2Qrbvm3QIVUV8NCh2olw3IEAQYASABEgJWyfD_BwE

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Any good urethane sealant needs a gap at least 1/4" wide X 1/2" deep with a backer rod or bond breaker tape at the bottom. For flat work I use the self leveling type and the standard for vertical. Vertical joints need to be tooled to assure bonding to both surfaces. As mentioned before, joint needs to be clean and dry, no dust either. OP may need to groove out along the wall with a vertical cut, then chip out.

Urethane has high elasticity to compensate for movement w/o failing. I always use SIKA products for sealants, they have several urethane base products. For DIY work stay away from the 2 part products.

To keep the dialog pure: Caulk/calk is an architecture cosmetic product (we call it 1" wide putty) and are designed to use with surface finishes. Sealants are just that, designed to seal against air or water. I have never seen Silicone work for very long unless sandwiched two surfaces mechanically joined (gasket). Movement, it fails and it does not bond well to surfaces.

Ron

 

[Gunny]

SASHCO 13 Lexel Synthetic Rubber, 15 oz, White, Voc: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

If you want urethane, Sascho has several varieties of that.

I started using their products awhile back and they've all been far superior to any silicone caulk I'd used in the past. This stuff will even stick to wet surfaces. Not cheap, but at least you won't be redoing a joint every year or so

 

[EddieWalker]

Sika is good. I buy it at Lowes. I use it for filling cracks in brick and concrete.

I'm not sure that I understand the part about leaking. Where is the water going that is leaking? A picture would really be helpful.