I've had an AGT QH12 for a year and have used it for many tasks. Some went much better than others naturally. Seems to work great digging, moving dirt and gravel even removing concrete. I have experienced problems with the tracks coming off while moving/setting RR ties. First off you don't get a user manual, repair manual (or warranty) with the tractor. Going to AGT's website looking for help is useless for the most part. Information on how to get the track back on is nowhere to be found and all videos I found are related to hydraulic (grease filled) tensioners not found on AGT's. The AGT's use a bolt design which leaves a lot to be desired and leaves you to figure out how to get the track back on in the first place.
The first time one came off, it only came off partially and after about two hours of trial and error I was able to get it back on...there was no fun involved. The second time it threw it completely and took a substantially longer time to get back on, however I was able to figure out how to get it back on, and had I tried that idea originally, I would have had it on in about 15-20 minutes.
What I ended up doing was elevating the tractor about 6" off the ground (blocking it for safety), then I backed off the tensioner as far as it would travel, I removed the drive sprocket cotter pin and nut, using a three-jaw puller I took off the sprocket. I then put the track over the idler and positioned the drive sprocket in the track and over the drive hub (aligning the keyway) and used a fiberglass hammer to tap it on enough to start the nut back on, then I used the nut to tighten the sprocket back on. Lastly, I tightened the tensioner back up, removed the blocking and lowered it back on the ground and checked the track tension.
Most videos show people prying the track over the sprocket and idler, two words of advice...good luck. That's how I did it the first time and toiled for the same amount of time the second time until I reached the solution above.
I'm still watchful to keep it from coming off, but at least I've learned a quick and effective way of putting it back on now, with a minimal amount of effort and less colorful language.
The first time one came off, it only came off partially and after about two hours of trial and error I was able to get it back on...there was no fun involved. The second time it threw it completely and took a substantially longer time to get back on, however I was able to figure out how to get it back on, and had I tried that idea originally, I would have had it on in about 15-20 minutes.
What I ended up doing was elevating the tractor about 6" off the ground (blocking it for safety), then I backed off the tensioner as far as it would travel, I removed the drive sprocket cotter pin and nut, using a three-jaw puller I took off the sprocket. I then put the track over the idler and positioned the drive sprocket in the track and over the drive hub (aligning the keyway) and used a fiberglass hammer to tap it on enough to start the nut back on, then I used the nut to tighten the sprocket back on. Lastly, I tightened the tensioner back up, removed the blocking and lowered it back on the ground and checked the track tension.
Most videos show people prying the track over the sprocket and idler, two words of advice...good luck. That's how I did it the first time and toiled for the same amount of time the second time until I reached the solution above.
I'm still watchful to keep it from coming off, but at least I've learned a quick and effective way of putting it back on now, with a minimal amount of effort and less colorful language.
