Agracat 200 fuel system

[brown2011]

Does anyone know how to bleed air from the fuel system of the Agracat 200? I am new to tractors and don't have a clue. Please advise.

 

[greg_g]

Bleeding a diesel fuel system is seldom necessary unless/until it has been opened , suffers a blockage, or runs of fuel. It would help if you'd explain why you think you need to bleed the system.

//greg//

 

[Rich Waugh]

Basically, bleeding is done one stage at a time, starting at the fuel tank and progressing to the injectors. You want to lock the compression release open for this in order to minimize the load on the starter when you're repeatedly cranking it to run the pump. Bleeding usually isn't necessary unless you've let it run out of fuel or taken a filter out or opened the fuel system in some other way. If you replace the filter, fill the new one with diesel before you put it back in and then open the line immediately after the filter to let fuel run through until any remaining air is bled out. Then go to the priming pump on the lift pump side of the injector pump and open it and pump it until you get pretty solid resistance. Close the priming pump and screw it down. Then loosen the fuel line at the first injector and crank the engine until you get nice steady dribbles and close it back up. Do the same with the remaining injectors and you should have the system bled. Close the compression release and it should fire right up.

 

[brown2011]

Forgive me greg_g for not explaining. About a week ago I purchased a used Agracat 200. My husband backed it off the trailer then it ran out of fuel and would not start. It occurred to me, after doing some on line research, that perhaps the reason it might not start is that air is in the fuel system. It started perfectly on each occasion when I went to view and inspect the tractor before buying it. The previous owner did not provide the necessary manuals for us to read about how to bleed the fuel system. Luckily today my husband and I were able to find the fuel pump and loosened the screws to allow the air to be removed. After we loosened the screws the tractor started and ran just fine. Thank you for your help. Until my next tractor catastrophe. ) brown2011

 

[brown2011]

Thank you Rich Waugh for the instructions. I am ashamed to say but I know nothing about under the hood of a tractor. However, today we were able to find the fuel pump and loosen the screws to let the air escape. It fired right up afterwards. By the way, what is a compression release? Where can I find it on the Agracat 200? I plan to purchase a set of owner's manuals so I can familiarize myself with the mechanisms of the tractor. Thanks again until my next catastrophe. brown2011 :ashamed:

 

[Rich Waugh]

The compression release is a device that lifts the exhaust valves so they remain open preventing the engine from developing any compression. It is used to make starting easier in cold weather. Usually there is a lever or pull cable on/near the dashboard area that goes to the valve cover on the engine. If you don't see one check the valve cover for a rod coming out of it and trace that back to the driver's area. If there is no rod on the valve cover then your trctor may not have a compression release.

You definitely need all the manuals for the tractor - owner's manual parts manual and engine manual. Your Agracat is a re-badged Jinma 200 series tractor. You can get them from Affordable Tractor Sales. You will need to provide them the information from the tractor ID plate located on the inside of one of the fenders or transmission and also the ID plate located on the engine. I also suggest you search out and read up on proper maintenance of these tractors particularly with respect to changing fluids and setting the valve lash and torquing the head bolts. If maintained properly these are great tractors but if not maintained they will fail rather quickly.

 

[greg_g]

If I'm not mistaken, the compression release on your tractor is a chromed rod sticking out of (or from under) the dash, roughly in front of your left knee. I think the rod itself is then bent to point in the direction of 9 o'clock. Prior to starting a cold engine, first turn the key to the HEAT position and hold (it should be a spring-return position). Watch the ammeter. As the glow plugs heat, the amp draw will reduce. You may see it start up near 30A on a very cold engine, hold it for a count of 20 or until the needle gets below 15A. Heating longer than 20 sec at a time is hard on the glow plugs. If it's real cold, you may have to do this more than once to get down to or below 15A. With the other hand then turn the compression release about 90 degrees CCW (~6 o'clock). Turn the key to START (also spring return) and hold. Watch the oil pressure gauge. When you see the needle starting to rise, let go of the compression release. You may have to keep the key in the START position for a few seconds longer for one or more cylinders to catch. But like the glow plugs, holding the key in START too long is hard on the starter and the battery. If it's not started by a 10 count, repeat the whole procedure. If it starts but runs rough, only one cylinder may have combusted. Don't worry, that running cylinder becomes your starter - and will eventually start the rest of the cylinders.

//greg//