AGF 180 Ditch Bank Flail Mower - Bearing Failure

[JeffroL]

Folks, about a year ago I purchased an AGF 180 ditch flail mower that's provided outstanding services. The two hydraulic cylinders allow me to push back brush, cut offset, cut otherwise dangerous banks, etc. But sadly the machine suffered a serious bearing failure about a month ago and is now completely inoperative. The unit is no longer carried by the supplier and they are unable to source parts. But that's only 1/2 of the problem.

The bearings are seated inside a housing, along with a series of seals and clips. While I was able to drop the cutting drum, and clearly identify the damaged bearing, I can NOT figure out how to remove it. I have removed both compression rings that you can see in the photos, but nothing I do will get that housing to slide off. I've even put bottle jacks onto the hammers and applied several tons of pressure to the housing, equally on both sides. It will not budge a millimeter. The other side doesn't want to move either, I already tried to move it the other way. Nothing will work. Those bearings are pressed on as far as I can tell.

This machine is made in China and apparently is no longer being imported, so my efforts to obtain a complete axle replacement failed. On the plus side, the distributer was AMAZING and has offered me a full refund for the machine, which is just really impressive. But I still have a huge hunk of useless steel unless I can remove and replace that bearing. Any suggestions at all on how to deal with this situation? The axle is about 225# so it's extremely hard to brace and work on. I'm open to any and all ideas.

-Jeff

 

[Agvg]

Suppose the bearing sits in a bearin house that's can be pulled off? More pictures?

 

[JeffroL]

Suppose the bearing sits in a bearin house that's can be pulled off? More pictures?

There really isn't much more I can show. Here's a shot of the entire unit, as well as an exploded view from the owners manual. Although I noticed right away that the reality of this axle doesn't quite align with what I see in the manual. At the very least there is +1 compression ring on my unit.

 

[Eagleview]

Put your bottle jacks back on and warm the inner race a bit with a torch of some sort . They are a really good fit and the slightest bit of rusting will make them grab .

Make sure you replace the bearings with SPHERICAL bearings, your bearing suppler will know what I mean .

Tip, DO NOT grease the bearings every few hours , that is what killed that one, over greasing . Once or twice a day, put the back of your hand against the mower end plates, close to the bearing, if barely warm, leave it, dont grease it .

Make sure the end plates go back in so that the grease hole lines up again .

 

[JeffroL]

Put your bottle jacks back on and warm the inner race a bit with a torch of some sort . They are a really good fit and the slightest bit of rusting will make them grab .

Make sure you replace the bearings with SPHERICAL bearings, your bearing suppler will know what I mean .

Tip, DO NOT grease the bearings every few hours , that is what killed that one, over greasing . Once or twice a day, put the back of your hand against the mower end plates, close to the bearing, if barely warm, leave it, dont grease it .

Make sure the end plates go back in so that the grease hole lines up again .

Great idea. I will try a little bit of heat. I also just hauled the axle over to a local welder / machine shop owner that I know. He thinks he can brace it up better and apply more hydraulic pressure. Fingers crossed! But the heat is a good idea. And you are the second person to suggest replacing with spherical bearing rollers.

 

[Eagleview]

Great idea. I will try a little bit of heat. I also just hauled the axle over to a local welder / machine shop owner that I know. He thinks he can brace it up better and apply more hydraulic pressure. Fingers crossed! But the heat is a good idea. And you are the second person to suggest replacing with spherical bearing rollers.

He can also use a piece of heavy flat steel with a hole at each end, across the flange and use two of the threaded holes on the flange to pull with . Use longer bolts or studs and use a spacer under the steel and onto the stub shaft . The spacer should be about 1 1/2" long (an old socket etc) so you can get in to heat the bearing .

 

[Tx Jim]

Repair appears simple enough to me. With snap rings removed push(press) shaft out of brg then utilize slide hammer extended through brg inner race to pop brg out of housing. Install new brg from brg supply business similar to Motion Industries or Purvis Brgs. Reinstall shaft & snap rings.

 

[JeffroL]

Repair appears simple enough to me. With snap rings removed push(press) shaft out of brg then utilize slide hammer extended through brg inner race to pop brg out of housing. Install new brg from brg supply business similar to Motion Industries or Purvis Brgs. Reinstall shaft & snap rings.

Yes, I thought the same thing. But 3 tons of pressure was not sufficient to budge that housing a millimeter. It is attached to the axle with tremendous force.

 

[FrancisC]

Yes, I thought the same thing. But 3 tons of pressure was not sufficient to budge that housing a millimeter. It is attached to the axle with tremendous force.

Not sure how your bottle jack setup is like or would work, but based on the diagram, the bearing housing is pressure fit on the flail drum. I'd just use my puller set for that, or if you don't have one do as Eagleview mentionned above. I changed one last year on our verge flail mower, which is eerily similar to that one but a Swedish manufacturer. I guess I got taken for a ride, it's probably a Chinese one lol

 

[JeffroL]

Not sure how your bottle jack setup is like or would work, but based on the diagram, the bearing housing is pressure fit on the flail drum. I'd just use my puller set for that, or if you don't have one do as Eagleview mentionned above. I changed one last year on our verge flail mower, which is eerily similar to that one but a Swedish manufacturer. I guess I got taken for a ride, it's probably a Chinese one lol

I think almost all of those units are largely manufactured in China. I've seen a half dozen brand names and they all look veeeeery similar. This has all been good feedback, I'll keep you in the loop.