Ag vs. Industrial tire strengths

[coolbrze]

Still in the research process for a new tractor for our mountain, farm, & client properties. Are Ag or Industrial tires tougher / stronger? When do you recommend filling them vs. not filling them? Pros/cons? Thanks!

 

[check]

Still in the research process for a new tractor for our mountain, farm, & client properties. Are Ag or Industrial tires tougher / stronger? When do you recommend filling them vs. not filling them? Pros/cons? Thanks!

Industrial ties are far, far stronger, and you can fill both. Fill them if you want to improve stability and or keep the back end down when using the FEL. I don't fill mine on my Kabota BX 25. Don't need to. Always have something on the back to serve as a counterweight.

 

[jbrumberg]

Weighted tires help increase traction and add stability. Mine are filled with CaCl2. I now wish that they were filled with beet juice.

R1's (Ag) for field/dirt and mud operations. They will not load up as quickly as R4's. R1's have better traction on slopes = they will really tear up the lawn. R1's will "goo" forward in deep mud much better than they can "goo" in reverse. Once R1's really start loading up going forward one should start worrying about going in reverse.

R4's are a compromise. They have less traction and load up with mud and snow quicker. They do less lawn damage and with the stiffer/thicker tire with higher load ratings so they are more puncture proof and the front tires wear better than R1's for FEL operation.

There are many, many old threads comparing R1's to R4's. And many, many different/differing opinions by different owner/operators.

I am sure someone will imply that I am posting from where the sun does not shine, and that's OK with me.

 

[airbiscuit]

Weighted tires help increase traction and add stability. Mine are filled with CaCl2. I now wish that they were filled with beet juice.

R1's (Ag) for field/dirt and mud operations. They will not load up as quickly as R4's. R1's have better traction on slopes = they will really tear up the lawn. R1's will "goo" forward in deep mud much better than they can "goo" in reverse. Once R1's really start loading up going forward one should start worrying about going in reverse.

R4's are a compromise. They have less traction and load up with mud and snow quicker. They do less lawn damage and with the stiffer/thicker tire with higher load ratings so they are more puncture proof and the front tires wear better than R1's for FEL operation.

There are many, many old threads comparing R1's to R4's. And many, many different/differing opinions by different owner/operators.

I am sure someone will imply that I am posting from where the sun does not shine, and that's OK with me.

I have had both R4s and R1s, and I pretty much agree with all of the above. I would add that I think R4s are perhaps more puncture resistant in the woods. They also seem a little more robust with the weight of a full loader bucket (I cringe when I see my front R1s bulging as I lift a big load of dirt).

That said, for my needs I prefer the R1s for the TRACTION. They just plain pull better, and in wet snow, the R4s would load up with snow and turn into racing slicks. Chains are an antidote to this.

 

[jbrumberg]

My R1 front tires are tubed and only 6 ply. I do not think that they make a higher ply tire in my size tire. They really do bulge with heavy FEL loads.

 

[CobyRupert]

Has OP also decided which is better, a gear tractor or a hydro? :stirthepot:

 

[airbiscuit]

Has OP also decided which is better, a gear tractor or a hydro? :stirthepot:

Or what color they like best?

 

[Oldoak]

Has OP also decided which is better, a gear tractor or a hydro? :stirthepot:

My personal preference, R1s, at least 6 ply and loaded for any farm or ranch work. R4s, at least to me, are like having worn down R1s as far as for traction. :confused3:

 

[Gary Fowler]

If you use R4 then never remove the FEL because if you get into any mud, you will need the FEL to push yourself out of it. R4 tires are not much better than racing slicks for traction in the wet. In dry conditions, I think they may tie or even surpass R1 tires since they are usually much wider tires.
As for puncture resistance, if the object will puncture a R1 in 6 Ply then it likely will also puncture the 8 ply in the R4 also. A new R4 have very low tread compared to a new R1 and an object that might penetrate a R4 with its low tread might not even reach the tire on a R1 due to the high bar lugs.

The only flat tire I have ever had has been on my R4 tires. Never had a flat with my R1 tires. I have had to retrieve tractors with R4's from the mud several times using my R1 tired tractor which just plowed right thru the spot that had stalled the R4 tires.

 

[oosik]

My M6040 has R-1 tires with the rears filled with 774# of Rimguard per tire. Total weight with grapple and rear blade installed - 10,100#.

I own 80 acres with a mile long gravel driveway - R-4 tires simply would not provide the traction I need to get around my property.

I've been on the property for 36+ years. Owned a tractor with R-1 tires all that time. Never had a flat or reason to wish I had any other type of tires. My front tires are inflated to the max because I DO carry heavy loads with the grapple.