Tires Ag tires on rear/R-4s on front L3940

[Take-er-EZ]

Does anybody know if this is possible? I would like to have the ags for better traction in the back and have the R4s on the front to help with loader operations and a little less tearing up the grass when mowing.

 

[nightowl490]

Your manual should tell you if this can be done. I have L4150 and manual says no, to keep them the same..... I have ags and they tear the dickens out of the ground. Especially in Fwd. I think is is not possible, check your manual.

Good luck

PS. do you have fluid in your tires, that is a huge help. If not try adding more weight???

 

[Reg]

Sure its possible, practical even.
You just HAVE TO make sure you ONLY use 4WD when you NEED to,
but ain't that the case anyway ? (-:
Of course if the rolling circumferences result in a negative lead (a LAG) it will be difficult as all heck to keep a straight line in the field - but that's a different problem.

 

[radman1]

Generally, it is not done. If you can find an ag tire with the same circumference as the rear, then you are good to go even if in 4 wd. However, you will have to get a different rim for the ag tire. Overall, it usually isn't worth the expense to do it.

 

[art]

Generally, it is not done. If you can find an ag tire with the same circumference as the rear, then you are good to go even if in 4 wd. However, you will have to get a different rim for the ag tire. Overall, it usually isn't worth the expense to do it.

Been there don' that! Don't!!!!!!! The outer diameter is not a good number to go by, I did and took out driveshafts from u-joint failures with-in 45 minutes of hitting the fields. The outer diameter is only good on hard pack surface where the bars don't sink in. The casing height is the one that counts!

 

[AndyinIowa]

Not an issue as long as you keep rolling ratios correct.

The field should be the most forgiving. When you need FWD, slippage is normally higher and the ratio isn't as damaging on the drivetrain as, for instance, driving on hot blacktop when slippage is virtually 0%.

I've helped people mix and match tires in several applications. First thing we do is load the vehicle, put it on level blacktop, and count tire rotations over a known distance (I recommend a distance that requires at least 100 tire revolutions).

1. Measure front and rear rim revolutions with stock tires, empty tractor
2. Measure again with max vehicle weight
3. Change front tires and measure again.
4. Depending on results, may need to install alternate height tires on rear.


If vehicle is using lug tires, its a pretty easy calculation to ratio the tire revolutions on top of the bars vs. against the tire casing.

As a final note, unless you know the manufacturer's front and rear drive ratio, put the vehicle up in the air, and measure 100 revolutions on the rear rim. Have an assistant count the front revolutions, and you have your front/rear drive ratio! It helps when mixing and matching tire sizes!

IowaAndy

 

[Happyman]

Not an issue as long as you keep rolling ratios correct.

The field should be the most forgiving. When you need FWD, slippage is normally higher and the ratio isn't as damaging on the drivetrain as, for instance, driving on hot blacktop when slippage is virtually 0%.

I've helped people mix and match tires in several applications. First thing we do is load the vehicle, put it on level blacktop, and count tire rotations over a known distance (I recommend a distance that requires at least 100 tire revolutions).

1. Measure front and rear rim revolutions with stock tires, empty tractor
2. Measure again with max vehicle weight
3. Change front tires and measure again.
4. Depending on results, may need to install alternate height tires on rear.


If vehicle is using lug tires, its a pretty easy calculation to ratio the tire revolutions on top of the bars vs. against the tire casing.

As a final note, unless you know the manufacturer's front and rear drive ratio, put the vehicle up in the air, and measure 100 revolutions on the rear rim. Have an assistant count the front revolutions, and you have your front/rear drive ratio! It helps when mixing and matching tire sizes!

IowaAndy

Sounds like a lot of work to me
I would stick with the same tires on front and rear. I have the industrial tires (not sure what they call those) and they don't tear up my pastures when cutting. Not as aggresive as the ag tires but much better traction then the turf tires.
Just my $.02

 

[radman1]

Been there don' that! Don't!!!!!!! The outer diameter is not a good number to go by, I did and took out driveshafts from u-joint failures with-in 45 minutes of hitting the fields. The outer diameter is only good on hard pack surface where the bars don't sink in. The casing height is the one that counts!

I see your point. What if most of the use is on hard dirt, roads etc? Now the lugs are on the hard surface and the diameter is more than the casing? My ground is so hard now I can't hardly see an imprint. Overall, the idea of mixing types of tires is a bad one.

 

[art]

I see your point. What if most of the use is on hard dirt, roads etc? Now the lugs are on the hard surface and the diameter is more than the casing? My ground is so hard now I can't hardly see an imprint. Overall, the idea of mixing types of tires is a bad one.

The key word here is most!!!! To say that ag's would give you better traction tells me that it must be loose soil or soft soil for them to dig in and bite. That means the combination would be bad for the driveline.

Best traction on hard surface is from turf tires.

 

[LRH]

It can be done safely, I have ag's on my NH, but wanted something not as aggressive for the front. Purchased a pair of 14 X 6 wheels and ended up using 7.00 X 14 6ply truck tires, a little narrow but works well. Could have also used LT27/8.50-14 truck tires also as well as passenger car tires in (IIRC) either 215/75-14 or 225/75-14. They are still working after 11 years.

It is correct you can not be as accurate with just tire diameter, as some tires flatten out more under load at a given pressure. A 30" tall tire would have a theoretical 15" radius, but under load at X psi might have an actual radius from 13.5-14.25". A low pressure R1 flattens out quite a bit, so a 30" R1 might have a listed radius in the low 13.?"s, so matching height can be off quite a bit. The rolling circumferences is the best, if not available, look at the rolling radius of several close sizes to get something that has from 1-5% lead on the front.