Aftermarket diverter vs. factory quick attach control valve?

2manyrocks · Jan 2, 2025

Looking through this forum, a couple of you have added electric solenoid diverters to run a grapple and then some apparently use the factory quick attach valve to open and close their grapples.

Using the factory quick attach valve means swapping the hose from the latch cylinder to the grapple and then reaching down to operate the factory valve.

Installing a solenoid diverter would be more expensive and involves making sure I buy the correct valve and adapters in order to have a push button control on the loader joystick. Maybe this one?

Hydraulic Third Function Valve Kit w/ Joystick Handle for Tractor/Loader, 13 GPM

FREE SHIPPING Electronically controlled Hydraulic 3rd function kit

summit-hydraulics.com

Is it really worth the additional cost and effort to install a solenoid diverter on a power trac that already has the factory quick attach control valve?

MossRoad · Jan 2, 2025

2manyrocks said:
...

Is it really worth the additional cost and effort to install a solenoid diverter on a power trac that already has the factory quick attach control valve?

I don't have a grapple, but I do have a power-angle snowplow. I do have to reach down by my knee every time I want to change the angle. It's not that bad, because I right angle down the driveway and right angle up the driveway. Then I straighten it out and get the ends. The plow stays on pretty much all winter, so I only have to disconnect the QA maybe once or twice all winter if I need the bucket or forks for something.

But if I had a grapple, and did a lot of grapple work, I would seriously consider the electric diverter. I can imagine moving lots of brush on our property and reaching down to operate that lever for a few hours might get pretty old pretty fast. Especially if I knew I could just push a button on the joystick.

Is it worth the money?

Is anything worth the money?

If you have the money and want it, get it. Just like any other tool you'd use around the home.

One method I use to justify a purchase is look at the entire cost of the project you want to do, and add in any tools that you'd need to do the project. Like when I built a garage addition, I added in the cost of framing, roofing and palm nailers. Then I have the tool forever.

Easy to justify 'unnecessary' stuff that way.

2manyrocks · Jan 2, 2025

I'm not exactly sure which of the Summit third function kits is the one to pick for the PT1445.

Wonder why PT put this control valve down below the lift/tilt lever if they expect that customers will use it to control grapples, etc?

MossRoad · Jan 2, 2025

2manyrocks said:
I'm not exactly sure which of the Summit third function kits is the one to pick for the PT1445.

Wonder why PT put this control valve down below the lift/tilt lever if they expect that customers will use it to control grapples, etc?

I'm guessing they put it there because it's all one valve bank that way.

2manyrocks · Jan 2, 2025

What I think I have is an open center lift/tilt valve with maybe 5-6 gpm flow using 1/4 hoses. Would this be the best place to integrate a solenoid or would you think I should use the control valve for the quick attach?

MossRoad · Jan 2, 2025

I think you should talk to someone else that's done it already.

If it were me, I'd put the diverter in the dump/curl circuit.

Normal operation left-right on the joystick dump/curls like normal.

Diverter button engaged, left-right opens and closes the grapple.

Leave the QA lever circuit alone.

m5040 · Jan 2, 2025

I put valves in 3 of my PT's and a Kubota. Get a valve that exceeds the max flow, I think the smallest available is 13 GPMs which is more then enough.
I used the lower/raise circuit because as I lower the grapple onto the pile/log/etc I can, as I hydraulically lower the grapple, I can squeeze the electric trigger switch which then opens the grapple, I can release the switch and the grapple lowers again, all without moving the hyd control lever.
In the opposite, I pull the lever back to raise, but I have the trigger switch pulled which closes the grapple and when the object is grasped, I release the trigger and the valve then switches over to raise, all without me moving the lever again. As it raises and the brush settles in, I can momentarily squeeze the trigger again and the grapple will tighten (again without having to change the lever position).
Is it worth it? How much did the tractor cost? To me it is one of the most important features to make work easier. When you use a grapple, you will find that it is much better to be able to make micro adjustments as you maneuver the attachment. If I had to take my hand off the control and look for a lever in a totally different location, I could never do the same job. I think I would try to use my left hand on one lever and right on the other to coordinate all the movements I find necessary to accomplish the job and that would negate a benefit of the articulated steering and the ability to move the grapple, for example to center the log to balance the load by just turning the wheel (with left hand).
I guess maybe it depends if you use it once a month for a few minutes or every few days with a lot of grapple, dozer, 4 in 1 bucket, tree shear, etc.
Then to make it more complicated, if you have a rotating grapple, you just hit a different button and the grapple rotates instead of close/opens, try that with the quick attach lever.

2manyrocks · Jan 2, 2025

Do you have any suggestions for choosing a solenoid kit? I linked to Summit, but have never used any of their products.

m5040 · Jan 3, 2025

That valve you show has two elect solenoids. I used this one pictured here, notice in the hyd schmatic on their site, the normal position of the valve (with no elect signal) just allows flow from you main cont valve straight through to the original cylinder. Then when you actuate the valve, it switches to the new circuit. Seems much simpler then the one you shown. Like a "T" intersection, you drive up and everyone takes a right, press the switch and the light changes then everyone takes a left until you release it. [that analogy accounts for 3 of the 6 ports, the other 3 ports are for the other side of the cylinder-what goes in one side comes out the other)

Hydraulic Solenoid Selector/Diverter Valve, 13 GPM, 12v DC

summit-hydraulics.com

m5040 · Jan 3, 2025

I used this handle, because I also use a 4th valve (thumb button in 3rd picture) to control log grapple rotation. And I like a trigger switch for most of my attachments as it comes naturally and can find it without looking at control. If you go this route you will have to cut and thread the main control valve handle and I heated and bent for better ergonomics (which you may have to do no matter which one you use, unless you go the pool 8 ball and drill for a push switch). You may also have to buy a bushing to screw into the bottom of the handle to adjust to the size of yours. It will be like 5/8" round?