Aftermarket Bucket Cylinder

[Unclewilley]

I have been searching for a replacement aftermarket bucket cylinder for a Massey Ferguson (Argco) DL125 front loader on my MF 1742 tractor. The ARGO part # AL60006622 is a whapping $835! It seems the Massey Ferguson bucket (DL125) was made by ARGO and the cylinder was designed to require make it virtually impossible to replace with anything other than OEM.

I have found some after market cylinders that closely match bore, stroke, rod diameter but NOTHING that matches the "Crosstube" End Mountings: Rod End: OD 60mm (2.36"), width 52mm (2.05"), Pin diameter 30mm (1.18"); Base End OD 60mm, Pin 30mm, Width 55mm (2.16").

I have also searched for used/salvages parts with no luck. Local hydraulic repair shop wasn't sure they could repair the cylinder for much less than the OEM cost.

I would appreciate any ideas?

 

[Roadworthy]

Can the local hydraulic shop offer or find less expensive replacements? Sometimes they know of sources unknown to you.

 

[ptsg]

What happened to the current cylinder? EDIT: Just went through your other thread. I'm sure a hydraulic shop or a machinist could machine a new rod for that cylinder, they probably just don't want to bother.

Can you just get an aftermarket cylinder or two, and just use the ends of the OEM cylinder?

 

[Unclewilley]

What happened to the current cylinder? EDIT: Just went through your other thread. I'm sure a hydraulic shop or a machinist could machine a new rod for that cylinder, they probably just don't want to bother.

Can you just get an aftermarket cylinder or two, and just use the ends of the OEM cylinder?

I would need a skilled machinist & welder to cut the end off and weld perfectly straight/square to the cylinder.

 

[TractorGuy]

Whatever you do if you go generic you should do in pairs unless it operates with a single cylinder.

I used all generic cylinders on my JD. The fittings ended up on the top or bottom instead of on the sides. I had to trim a little off the cross on one end and add spacers on the other.

At the end of the day I have greater range and strength than the stock cylinders would have.

Are you sure the pins are metric? I think most of the available cylinders are going to be inch measurements.

 

[TractorGuy]

If you had to you could always buy cylinders with a similar bore and stroke and have the ends of your existing cylinders cut off and welded on.

 

[DieselBound]

Had a local shop replace a broken rod in bucket cylinder from my NX. It was cheaper than buying a new one via the dealer: interestingly, a new cylinder from Kioti was still cheaper than what I'd paid many years ago for a Kubota cylinder for my B7800.

 

[Unclewilley]

Had a local shop replace a broken rod in bucket cylinder from my NX. It was cheaper than buying a new one via the dealer: interestingly, a new cylinder from Kioti was still cheaper than what I'd paid many years ago for a Kubota cylinder for my B7800.

I just talked with a 2nd hydraulic shop. Both have said it's cheaper to buy a new one even at a cost of $835!!!! They said it would cost at lest $1,000 to repair. GO FIGURE@! Guess they don't need the business? Maybe a "mom & pop shop" could do it for a reasonable price, IF I could find one.

 

[Leejohn]

Your best would be to find the cyls real close to yours and get some DOM pipe the size you need for the ends. Take the new cyjs apart then have a welding shop weld on the new DOM pipe for the base mount and rod end.

 

[wdchyd]

If they are gonna be cheaper to buy, maybe the glands are damaged and egged out? Maybe the barrel is scored from the piston canting sideways?
If it’s just a bent rod plenty of good small hyd shops or machine shop that could make it reasonably. I’d do it if you were closer.
Take it apart and look carefully at the gland area for damage. If gland is good (less than .008” of slop) and barrel is not scored you will be better fixing the one bad cyl.
For future info for others, please for heavens sake don’t suck a bent rod back in, it’s a quick way to junk a cyl.