Advice needed on tractor size to look at.

[Radiater]

I've got other posts comparing compact utility tractors but in the process someone mentioned to me that I might not be getting enough tractor so I'd like to step back and present my situation and get input from the board.

Current situation......

Own 62 acres with 17 cropland that is commerically farmed by someone else that rents from us. I have no interest in commerical farming. Rest is mostly woods with about 5 or 7 open acres.

This will be my first tractor and I'd like to get enough to start with, not buy too small and then want to trade. Maybe that will be a problem no matter what...:laughing:

Current plans....

I plan to rough cut occassionally to keep open areas in check and turn about 3 acres into food plots for deer/turkey. Currently these areas are rough fields.

I also have a 1/4mi dirt road to maintain, grass and hard packed clay/dirt.

Most certainly will need to move some brush, stumps and logs and dirt at some point during ownership to maintain the property. I am not building a home, this land is just for recreation and hunting.


I've considered the New Holland T1510, John Deere 3032e, and now looking at Kubota L3800. Yes the Kubota is bigger....

What size horsepower and tractors would you guys suggest for my listed plans? What tractor models do you like and why??

Thanks for the input.

 

[RoyJackson]

You got quite a few replies on the NH and Deere on your other thread:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/buying-pricing-comparisons/205896-john-deere-3032e-vs-new.html

Now you're considering a slightly larger Kubota.

I suggest you get a feel for the ones you've indicated (see how the "fit" you) and make your decision.
While you're at the Deere dealer, see how a 3320 or 3520 fits. Those would be a good fit for your tasks...or, see what they have in the used market (4300, 4400, 4310 or 4410 would be good choices).

 

[houstonscott]

Look over all the attachments you might need or want or even dream of someday. Make sure you have the power and options to run them. That should give you an idea of how much power and type of unit fits your needs. Then compare.

HS

 

[bigbull338]

you said you want todo 3 or 4ac foodplots,do you want to plow them or use a 3pt tiller.you said you want todo some shredding.im assuming you want a 6ft shredder.maintain a road an plie brush.so that means you want a 6ft boxblade and a front end loader to pile brush.the l3800 would be the smallest id look at.you might want to look at the l4400 as well.

 

[Radiater]

Appreciate the replies.

Implements I plan to buy include FEL, 5' bushhog, 5' box blade, tiller. I've priced and driven the tractors I've mention except the Kubota and I plan to do that next week.

I assume the dealership would set me up with implements that will work fine with the tractors I've looked at and I'm just trying to make sure I'm getting enough HP to allow me to do what I want reasonably well.

Plan to use the tiller for foodplots and not plow at this point. Not planning on a chipper just a bushhog.

Trying to keep it under 22k. Used tractors seem to hold their value pretty well and the three dealers I've contacted did not have anything comparable to choose from.

 

[bigbull338]

most people buy a tractor to keep an use for the life of the tractor.an a few buy the tractor to trade every few years.but those clean trades dont last long on the dealers lots.

 

[WM75Guy]

Try to imagine all the tasks you would like the tractor to do now and in the future. It is better to get too much tractor now than not to have enough later. Talk to your dealers and your neighbors. Drink lots of free coffee at the dealers and try out different models and brands. The dealer service and salesperson attitude are as or more important than initial price. Opinions on what brand is best are like certain body parts, everybody has one and some stink. Rent different models or ask for the dealer to let you try one out at your place for a week. If you like the fit and the price go for it.

Chose your engine HP or PTO HP based on what size implements you want to buy. A generally accepted rule is 5 HP per foot of rotary cutter wide, for example a 30 HP tractor should handle a 6' cutter. 40 HP will allow you to cut faster and have less stall or bog down situations. Tillers are also sized to HP. How much is your time worth?

Weight is also a factor, the heavier the tractor the more the HP is "transferred" to the ground. All the HP in world is worthless if you are sitting there spinning the tires. A heavy tractor with less HP may be better than a light tractor with more HP depending on usage. It also makes a difference in FEL operation.

FEL specs will show you how much lift capacity you have. Dirt is usually not a problem as the bucket size will limit how much you lift. Moving rock or gravel is a different story as it can get heavy quick. Also when you switch to pallet or hay forks or pull stumps that capacity matters. I buy pallets of shavings and pine pellets for stall bedding and move round bales. A pallet of either bedding weighs 1750 pounds. My TC40DA FEL is rated at 2000 pounds lift with a 3540 pound breakout or bucket curl force. I take it slow when I unload pallets off the trailer and do not have a problem.

Transmissions depend on the brand and model. Gears, HST and CVT transmissions each have their proponents and opponents. See what you like and can afford. If you plan on loader work clutching gears gets tiring on the legs. Shuttle shift or HST makes it easier to operate. Who will be the operator? My wife drives the TC with HST without a problem cleaning stalls or dragging the arena. My 8N has CVT with shuttle shift, which I use for mowing. Not a lot of changing directions so it is great.

Look at accessories like rear remotes, mid PTO, and extra loader valves. It is usually cheaper to get them up front then to add them at a later date. Again, what do you want to do and how much can you afford?

Get what you want and can afford. Then sit back and enjoy your purchase. Use it, don't abuse it. Post pictures and tell us all about your tractor. If no pics it did not happen. Do not second guess your purchase, there will be plenty of people to do it for you, "You should have bought this brand or this model or this extra."

 

[Radiater]

Great summary post Randy. Thank you.

Definetly like the ease of the HST.

Why would extra loader valves be useful? What applications would they be needed for?

 

[om21braz]

Why would extra loader valves be useful? What applications would they be needed for?

rear remotes = power feed on chipper, logsplitter, hyd. toplink, top & tilt, etc.
mid-pto = pretty much just for mowing deck
extra loader valve = grapple, hyd. post hole digger, front blade, 4-in-one bucket, etc.

 

[WM75Guy]

rear remotes = power feed on chipper, logsplitter, hyd. toplink, top & tilt, etc.
mid-pto = pretty much just for mowing deck
extra loader valve = grapple, hyd. post hole digger, front blade, 4-in-one bucket, etc.

Typical FEL controls are arms up/down and curl up/down. An extra valve allows fo another set of movements. Depending on where you live you may need a front blade for snow. Extra valves allow you to get a blade that you can swivel left and right. The grapple or 4-1 bucket would also use the valve to actuate so you can clamp onto something. The mid PTO is normally for a MMM (mid mount mower) which is a finish mower. There are also snowblowers that use attach to the FEL and use the mid PTO to drive it. You blow snow going forwards instead of backing up.