Adjustable Return Stop for Wood Splitter

[Gordon Gould]

My splitter opens to 26 1/2" on the auto-return. It wastes a lot of time if you cut your wood 16" or 18". I made this 3 piece adjustable stop.

Bracket w/ bolt weld in for a shaft



A paddle and a pusher bar. Holes in pusher allow for stove wood down to 12"



Loose assembly



Cylinder and valve in place



Fully assembled



View of pusher. I cut a relief to insure the ram would not rub on it.
I need to cut a notch in the left log catcher to allow the pusher to pass by for short wood.



This is how it works for 16" wood

http://youtu.be/sSxqIm1Y7tk

gg

 

[calfal]

i like your idea, seems to work well.. c falcon

 

[Baby Grand]

Nicely done, Gordon.
Wish I'd had that this weekend.
Was splitting 16" lengths of stringy cherry for my neighbor.
I usually cut my wood 22" for our stove and hadn't experienced the need, before.
It's funny - I was trying to figure a simple way to accomplish exactly what you have done, but my ideas weren't as clean.
I especially like the indexable return length.
I may just crib that design for myself.
Don't see many folks OA welding - looks like nice welds you're putting down with that.

 

[BHD]

I would think this would work as well,

my log splitter valve has a detent and pops to neutral, when the cylinder is retracted, and come ot he end of it stroke, (restance or pressure build)

I am 99% certain all I would have to drill a hole in the I beam so the head would hit a bolt/pin dropped in the hole and it stop its return, thus the auto or detent of the valve would build pressure releasing the detened lever, (just as it does when the cylinder is at the end of its stroke,

 

[Gordon Gould]

I would think this would work as well,

my log splitter valve has a detent and pops to neutral, when the cylinder is retracted, and come ot he end of it stroke, (restance or pressure build)

I am 99% certain all I would have to drill a hole in the I beam so the head would hit a bolt/pin dropped in the hole and it stop its return, thus the auto or detent of the valve would build pressure releasing the detened lever, (just as it does when the cylinder is at the end of its stroke,

That was my first idea too except I used a plate bolted to the beam. The reverse detent relief pressure in my splitter valve is fixed at about 1000 psi or 12.5K pounds. What I failed to relealize was that when the ram is backing the bolt connecting the ram to the knife sees the entire 12.5K force. I ripped out the holes and broke the bolt. You would be ok if you can reduce the pressure down low enough. Going forward the bolt has no shear force because the ram pushes against the knife back plate (See how smart I am now). Take a look here
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...erial-advise-fix-post3773076.html#post3773076

gg

 

[BHD]

guess I was wrong,

 

[Baby Grand]

Textbook clevis shear-out failure.
Too bad - that was a clean & very simple design.

 

[BHD]

I am reasonable assured this would work if one used collar stops as one does on agricultural equipment as it puts it all on the cylinder, mine does have a factory clevis on it,

I do not remember why now but, I do remember making a unit for some thing I had years ago, using a heavy angle with end plates with a U shape cut to clear the shaft and protect the seals, and use a hose clamps to hold it on, it was just a long version of the clip on stops,