Adding weight to Disk Harrow

[andrewj]

I have a king kutter box frame harrow, with 18 inch disks, 4 gangs of 5 for a total of 20 disks.

My harrow weights about 800 pounds. That is 40 pounds pushing each disk into the ground. I recently posted about how it wouldn't cut through some sticks and trash left after bush hogging, and I'd like to add weight to it to help. My question is how much weight does each disk need to be a more efficient at cutting trash? thanks.

 

[RobJ]

I think the answer is as much weight as your 3pt can pick and your tractor can pull. Also depends on the soil. If you have sand under the stick then once they are chopped the heavy disk could bury. If it's hard clay it'll be like running on concrete. Wait for some wet weather to disk it.

Of course some will say a disk isn't made to cut through sticks and trash. Just made to slice into the ground and flip the soil.

Good Luck,
Rob

 

[hudr]

Weight has a lot to do with it, but also the pans. Are the front pans notched? Notched pans don't penetrate open ground as well, but they are better at chopping up trash. I also agree somewhat w/RobJ. Put as much weight as you feel comfy w/ on the disk. Is the gang angle adjustable? If so, put as much angle in it as you can. Our drawbar discs also have an adjustment on the tongue to supply more downpressure on the front gang, but I don't know how you would get that on a 3PT model. In all honesty, the few times I have used a 3pt disc, I have been sorely disappointed in their performance compared to drawbar models.

 

[Gizmo36]

Adjust the top link were the back of the harrow is about 4in off the ground.

 

[Soundguy]

Yep.. good advice.. back up makes it agressive.. and the angle of the gangs can control agressiveness.. Weight helps.. agree that notched blades cut trash better.. all good info.

Soundguy

 

[Neophyte]

I adjusted the gangs to a more agressive angle and I added a big boulder to each section of the harrow, four total. It seemed to work very well. The problem is, you can't re-adjust the gang angles with the boulders on top.

As mentioned, the clay seems to chop up much easier when wet but your tires also slip easier. When the ground is wet, you don't really need the weight.

I have pondered making something that would add the extra weight while allowing the gang angles to still be adjusted. I was thinking about bolting or welding some angle iron to the center of it and then have my ballast box sit within the angle iron. I would probably strap or chain the ballast box down to make sure it didn't fall over.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I have a king kutter box frame harrow, with 18 inch disks, 4 gangs of 5 for a total of 20 disks.

My harrow weights about 800 pounds. That is 40 pounds pushing each disk into the ground. I recently posted about how it wouldn't cut through some sticks and trash left after bush hogging, and I'd like to add weight to it to help. My question is how much weight does each disk need to be a more efficient at cutting trash? thanks.

1st, you don't need to raise the rear gangs completely off the ground (with top link) to get good front gang penetration. Just a couple turns on the top link will generally do it. With the "chevron shape" of disc , you'll be cutting with the outside ends of the front gang, with little cutting by the middle of the disc if you raise the back too far.

Make multiple passes at different angles. (i.e. north to south the east to west)

A disc will tend to ride up out of the ground as your speed increases. In difficult conditions, keep speeds lower.

I spent 9 hours discing yesterday, with a 3-point disc, in hard dry ground. With 2 (3 in a few areas) passes, it is now worked about 4" deep. It can be done. Weight is key. My disc is 9'-6". 28 blades and 1660 lbs. (with 4 suitcase weights attached to frame) (Just shy of 60 lbs per blade) That is minimal but effective weight.

I've used notched blades and smooth in 35+ years of farming. I can't say I'm overly impressed with notched. A GOOD disc will work well in most conditions with plain disc blades. From all I've seen, notched blades will gain an advantage on a disc that's too light for the job at hand, but a properly weighted disc will see little advantage.

Take a look at new disc blades. (Good ones anyway) They have a sharp edge. In the "old days" you could buy a grinder that was made just to sharpen disc blades. (Used to be available through most farm equipment manufacturers) There is an area where you can get better cut with same weight.

 

[have_blue]

For weight, I cut a plastic drum in half and filled it with dirt. I guess it weighs about 350-400#. It helps a lot, and doesn't overload the tractor or overly stress the harrow's frame.