Adding length to loading ramps

[Chain Bender]

Have a B3200 tractor. Loading this little tractor with a disc or bush hog really seems to put the top link in a bind. Not to mention tearing up the yard with the disc and almost bending the supports from the top link to the center of the bush hog deck. Had an accident yesterday that could have been deadly, but luckily was just a BVD Stainer!

I'm now of the opinion that the top link "floating yolk" on the bush hog was installed backwards, not allowing much flex in the link when the rear wheels of the tractor went down or the tire on the bush hog went up. This caused me to slip completely off the ramps yesterday. I managed to get the front tires off the trailer and safely on the ground with some blocks and 2X12's.

Have since reversed the yolk on the bush hog, but I still want to add at least 18" to the ramps to lessen the angle on the ramps.

Headed out to get some of the same angle iron they are made out of to do this project. Main frame is 2X3X 3/16" and treads and supports are 2X2X.125. My question is how much angle to I need to weld onto the existing ramps to be safe and not risk breaking/tearing a weld loose. I was thinking 18" longer and 18" welded on to the existing ramp frame (36" total). Too much, not enough?

Any suggestions?

thanks in advance,
Chain Bender

 

[rimshot]

Do you really have to add length? Try this first. I jacked up the bottom of my ramp by making a plate of 2x10's designed to raise the tires up 3" before loading the ramp. The modification worked perfect for me.

rimshot

 

[flusher]

For just 18" extension, go with Rimshot's idea.

 

[Snaker]

I'm not a fan of extending ramps without some kind of extra ground support. Manufactered ramps are often at the max of support strength already.
Rimshot has a simple and cheap fix. I saw somebody do similar with metal car ramps. One thing about the two piece ramps through is to be careful about the main ramp moving around as the trailer is loaded. You want a large enough and stable base so the ramp doesn't slip off. I would even consider some kind of pin connection between the pieces.
If you do this often, its worth making a good, secure setup.
In a pinch, I have replaced the top link with a come-along to raise the rear higher. I've only had to do that on light equipment. Can't say about heavier equipment.

 

[Snaker]

Have a B3200 tractor. Loading this little tractor with a disc or bush hog really seems to put the top link in a bind. Not to mention tearing up the yard with the disc and almost bending the supports from the top link to the center of the bush hog deck. Had an accident yesterday that could have been deadly, but luckily was just a BVD Stainer!

I'm now of the opinion that the top link "floating yolk" on the bush hog was installed backwards, not allowing much flex in the link when the rear wheels of the tractor went down or the tire on the bush hog went up. This caused me to slip completely off the ramps yesterday. I managed to get the front tires off the trailer and safely on the ground with some blocks and 2X12's.

Have since reversed the yolk on the bush hog, but I still want to add at least 18" to the ramps to lessen the angle on the ramps.

Headed out to get some of the same angle iron they are made out of to do this project. Main frame is 2X3X 3/16" and treads and supports are 2X2X.125. My question is how much angle to I need to weld onto the existing ramps to be safe and not risk breaking/tearing a weld loose. I was thinking 18" longer and 18" welded on to the existing ramp frame (36" total). Too much, not enough?

Any suggestions?

thanks in advance,
Chain Bender

I just wanted to comment on your floating link. You might be just overdoing what the link can handle with the ramp angle. I would suggest searching for a picture (manual, internet, similar brands) or checking with a dealer.

 

[rimshot]

(Manufactered ramps are often at the max of support strength already.
Rimshot has a simple and cheap fix. I saw somebody do similar with metal car ramps.) (Snaker)
===========

My trailer is a 16' car trailer. The first time I loaded my tractor those car ramps really bowed. I believe if I was to load a car aboard the trailer the front wheels would be safely aboard the trailer deck before the ramp got the weight of the back axle. With my CC-20 fitted with FEL and backhoe both axles are on the ramp and at 4000 lbs rolling up that ramp was tooo much so far as I was concerned nnot to mention to steep and the bottom of the backhoe boom was dragging too much.

In addition to the fact I had to fashion the ground plate for the base of the ramp, I felt I had better chok the center as well. this is the simple chok I came up with and it stiff legs the center of the ramp perfectly by allowing the ramp to only deflect slightly. I found that if I just placed it ahead a very slight bit the ramp was then allowed to deflect just a bit making the bottom and trailer hook grab much better. Placed tightly and the ramp wants to teeter off. Youi need some deflection for this not too happen.

I always place jackstands at each rear corner. Use parking brakes and park on th towing truck and lock trailer hitch when trailer is mounted.

A longer ramp would have definitely folded for me.

rimshot

 

[Chain Bender]

I just wanted to comment on your floating link. You might be just overdoing what the link can handle with the ramp angle. I would suggest searching for a picture (manual, internet, similar brands) or checking with a dealer.

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

I stopped by the Kubota dealership where I bought the tractor and bush hog this morning. I went out back and looked at 11 bush hogs just like mine and they were all set up the way mine was when it made me slip off the ramps yesterday. On the bottom end of the yolk there is a 1.25" C 1" thick metal block welded on about half way or the middle of the yolk. When the legs of the yold are straight up this block hits agains the frame/bolt about 3 inches below it. That is what is stopping the link from allowing the bush hog to rise any further. Maybe that block is there to keep from over loading the lift arms if something (bush hog) tries to raise them too high.

I had the tractor in 4 wheel low as I always do when loading or unloading. Not sure if that was a blessing or mistake. I was doing my best to keep the front tires in line with the 2X8 on the trailer that is in line with the ramps and watch the rear tires too. I think the front tires pushing backwards against the rear of the bush hog over loaded the link and actually lifted the rear tires off the ramps or took enough weight off of them that the push from the front tires made the slip off as if they were the pivot between the front tires and the bottomed out hush hog tire.

The ramps are flip ups that stay on the trailer (unless I unpin them and slide a 1.5" pipe out of them. They are braced straight under the trailer in the down position and are also braced at an anlge from the bottom of this to the middle of the upper frame. If I add length to them I will certainly brace them again as I understand the longer the weaker and wheel bases. I wasn't wanting to have to tote blocks of wood around to load or unload the tractor.

thanks for the above input and any more that might come along.

CB

 

[Snaker]

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

I stopped by the Kubota dealership where I bought the tractor and bush hog this morning. I went out back and looked at 11 bush hogs just like mine and they were all set up the way mine was when it made me slip off the ramps yesterday. On the bottom end of the yolk there is a 1.25" C 1" thick metal block welded on about half way or the middle of the yolk. When the legs of the yold are straight up this block hits agains the frame/bolt about 3 inches below it. That is what is stopping the link from allowing the bush hog to rise any further. Maybe that block is there to keep from over loading the lift arms if something (bush hog) tries to raise them too high.

I had the tractor in 4 wheel low as I always do when loading or unloading. Not sure if that was a blessing or mistake. I was doing my best to keep the front tires in line with the 2X8 on the trailer that is in line with the ramps and watch the rear tires too. I think the front tires pushing backwards against the rear of the bush hog over loaded the link and actually lifted the rear tires off the ramps or took enough weight off of them that the push from the front tires made the slip off as if they were the pivot between the front tires and the bottomed out hush hog tire.

The ramps are flip ups that stay on the trailer (unless I unpin them and slide a 1.5" pipe out of them. They are braced straight under the trailer in the down position and are also braced at an anlge from the bottom of this to the middle of the upper frame. If I add length to them I will certainly brace them again as I understand the longer the weaker and wheel bases. I wasn't wanting to have to tote blocks of wood around to load or unload the tractor.

thanks for the above input and any more that might come along.

CB

I've left the top link off to get float on mine and had the front corners of the mower catch on a tree root. The back end of the mower flipped up in the air. I'm guessing thats what that block is for on you yolk.

 

[UnclePaul]

If the primary use of this trailer is for your tractor. I might think about spending a little more money and building a whole new set of ramps.

 

[sandman2234]

I use aluminum ramps and had the same problem, so I welded a piece of 3" diameter pipe to the bottom end to raise it just a little. Really worked well, and along the same principal as using a block, except I don't have to mess with anything except the ramp. If you decide to add to your existing ramps, consider putting the extension at an angle instead of straight, and it will allow for a shorter extension.
David from jax