Rear Blade Add ripper teeth to a scraper blade

MarshSt · Jun 18, 2012

Has anyone added ripper teeth to a scraper blade? If so how about pictures or directions to the post? I don't need to go very deep.
I have added bolt on slide shoes and am thinking about attaching to the shoe mounts and using the cutting edge for support. Also thinking about some chains to the blade mount body to support the ends of the blade to save wear and tear on the angle adjust pin.

Thanks in advance,
Steve

swick1 · Jun 24, 2012

I wouldn't worry about the pin wearing too much. Some road graders have serrated cutting edges. I want to do the same with my grader blade. I was thinking about building a toothbar that would pivot about the top of the blade and flip down to rest in front of the blade. I'm thinking about basically building a root rake for a dozer. It should work for us as long as the tines aren't too long. An added benefit is that if you back up the cutting edge reengages the ground and makes a smoothing pass. You would be able to attach with two pins at the top of the blade.

Here's an example:
http://www.excavatorthumb.com/mojo/mojo.php?attachment=dr+92+8+5x5+8&model=dr_92_8_5x5&gallery=usaa

MarshSt · Jun 26, 2012

I link the swing style brush rake idea. I ordered some 12001 ripper shanks from AgriSupply and am planning to fab a structure to mount them. I should have them in 5-7 days. Does anyone have dimensions or info o a link to a drawing so I can get started before they show up?
Steve

swick1 · Jun 27, 2012

I would probably just order some rectangular tubing that the rippers will fit inside and weld it to a horizontal piece of square tubing that spans the length of the blade. That way you would mount them just like a truck hitch with a pin in the receiver. On the root rakes you can unpin them from the top hinge easily. I would do this in case it interferes with your rear tires when folded up at Max angle.

MarshSt · Jul 24, 2012

Well here's the update. Pictures attached.
I ordered 5 #70112 Box Blade Shanks from Agri-Supply but only ended up using 4.
I mocked up the teeth on the blade to get an idea of how things would fit up to the blade. The slider feet are nothing fancy, just some channel and flat bar pieces that were thrown together so I could try to get a smooth finish on our dirt track. They work pretty well for knocking the bumps down without creating washboard. I welded some tabs onto them so I could bolt the new stuff on and give it a try.
I was concerned that the blade would not be rigid enough to withstand the force from the teeth so I made the tooth support as rigid as I could by boxing 2-1/2 x 2-1/2 x 3/16 and 2 x 3 x 3/16 tubing that I had on hand.
The ripper tooth pockets were made out of 3/16 plates that were stacked and tacked together and all drilled at once. I have 3/8 x 3 backers behind the teeth at the bottom where they contact the tube and ¾ rounds at the top and some 3/8 x 1-1/2 near the bottom at the front of the tooth to support the tooth and tie the plates together. The holes are set up to allow depth changes in 1” increments and I can either use 1 pin or 2 bolts if I want to. I’ll see how the holes hold up with just one slip fit pin. The holes accept 5/8” pins or bolts.
The first test with the teeth set for 2” depth was a failure within about 3 feet as I caught a root and the force twisted the blade around its center mount and left it with a visible curl. The ripper bar was undamaged though. I removed the ripper bar and slipped a 5’ bar into the channel on the ends of my blade and was able to remove the curl. This blade is obviously not strong enough to support the teeth and I would be surprised if any except the really heavy duty ones out there are since they are only mounted at the center. Looking at the box blades I can see that the teeth are all attached to a square tube mounted directly to the 3 point pins and the blade trails behind and a lighter structure.
It was back to the shop and the drawing board. I found I could mount my ripper bar in front of my blade 3 point mount and almost directly under the lower 3 point pins. The old mounts were cut off of the end of the bar first while I could still get it in my saw. I fabbed some adaptors that are captured by the lower 3 point pins that give me ¾ mounting holes below the lower pins and then welded tabs onto the ripper bar top tube to accept the pins. I didn’t want to weld anything to the original blade so everything is bolt-on. I welded a vertical support to the face of the ripper bar that hooks onto a bolt below the top 3 point pin. The vertical support is 2-1/2 x 2-1/2 x 3/16 tube that extends to a point just below where the angles change to vertical. I didn’t want to have to make a perfect fit between the 3 pin locations so I cut a piece of 2 x 2 x 3/16 tube to slide inside the 2-1/2 for some height adjustment and drilled it so it can swing on the spacer on the top bolt. There is about 8” overlap on the tubes. This may get a little sloppy so I might have to stick a shim in to take up some of the space.
I gave the new design a try and got a chance to work it a little with the teeth at 2” deep. No problems with bending anything and the blade with the slider feet smooths the ground up pretty well behind me. I will get more time to play with it this weekend and will see how it holds up.

Steve

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swick1 · Jul 25, 2012

Sweet! I'm glad you figured it out. I've got a small tractor with a big heavy blade so I never thought about bending it. Sorry!

I'm excited to see that it works!