About to purchase JD 1025R, need help with configuration

[thehobbyfarmer]

I just acquired 3 acres of land in Zone 6B. I am starting a fruit tree orchard on one acre, and setting up a vegetable farm on another.

I am about to purchase a 1025R tractor (used tractors are not for me, I'm not a mechanic nor do I want to be). Here is what I think I need so far (and what I have quoted):

• 1025R Tractor (18 PTO hp)
• 120R Loader
• 60D MMM
• 54 in. Quick-Hitch Front Blade
• Rotary Tiller
• Middle Buster
• One-Row Cultivator
• Garden Bedder / Hiller
• 42" pallet forks

Is there anything I am missing? Does anyone have any experience with loader teeth, loader bucket/trencher, and front blade rubber sides/scraper from Artillian?

Any advice for a new tractor owner (I've never owned or operated one in my life!)

Excited to learn. Thanks!

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

Equipment for Beginning Row Crop Farmers - Fresh Dirt from the Farmer Mentor | Ecological Farming Association

Here is a good article for what’s needed for a small vegetable operation.

As for the 1025 being a good row crop tractor, idk about that, I would be concerned about clearance. You want tall and skinny for row crop or your rows have to be a mile apart.

I would jump up to a 2 series with ag tires, they start out at 25hp but have better ground clearance.

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

As far as not being a mechanic, you will need to do maintenance regardless, loaders need greased every 8-10 running hours etc. fluids need checked regularly or major component failures are possible.

 

[RalphVa]

The 1025R has a very severe limitation for row cropping: no turning brakes.

I'd advise going to a 2025R. I have one and had the equivalent of a 2019E (a 4010) for my first tractor when I had a big garden. With the 4010, I could come to the end of a row, hit the 3ph lift and hit a turning brake and be on the next row like magic. Not possible at all on a 1025R.

I tilled my 50x75 garden patch with an old JD M soil ripper that a friend of mine gave me, and helped me convert it to 3ph. Then I put some big disc hillers on the soil ripper instead of the little cultivator tines and made 20 raised rows along the 75' length, each 50' long. Then I no longer needed the soil ripper nor the disc hillers because I did no till. Same story for when I had a Gravely. Originally did that garden plot with a rotary plow on it. Made raised rows with it and then no longer needed the rotary plow.

Bought an (can't think of the name of it) L-shaped thing that goes onto the 3ph from TSC and put an old pallet onto the base of it and then built sides around the pallet. Used the FEL plus this thing on the rear to tote gobs of mulch down for those 20 rows.

That's it. I hand dug my potatoes; so, I didn't need a middle buster, but I could have bought and mounted a buster onto the soil ripper.

Now, for more bad news regarding a 1025R. My 4010's front U joint on the shaft between the engine and the hydraulics disentegrated at 660 hours and 9 years. I then bought a 1025R (remember, I was doing no till and no longer needed the quick turning of the 4010). Had it for nearly 2 years. All kinds of problems fixed on warranty. A royal pain the neck. At one point, I accidently hit the fuel cut off with my right foot and didn't realize it. Of course, the tractor stalled and would not restart. Never could do that on the 4010 nor the 2025R (basically the same tractor except for better 3ph control and more hp: cannot get any smaller hp JD now). Before the warranty was out, I traded it in on the 2025R.

Absolutely NOTHING wrong with the 2025R in nearly 2 years on it. Haven't put anywhere near the # of hours on it as what I put in on the 4010 though. Actually had very few problems with the 4010. Broke both turnbuckles because I didn't tighten them good with the heavy bush hog. Had lots of trouble with the front turf tires on the 4010. Not good enough for FEL work, but they grip to make turns better than the industrials on the 2025R.

I've a bush hog for the 2025R plus a MacKissic TPH-122. Also have a back blade used primarily for small snowfalls. The 4010 and the 2025R are massive snow machines with the FEL and back blade. The 1025R was fine for this, too, but its FEL hydraulic action was very quirky (I'd NEVER, for instance, be confident in putting FEL loads over the side of my pickup with the 1025R). The FEL on the 2025R is the best of the 3 FELs. Its hydraulics are fast and faultless. They were slow on the 4010 but equally faultless. The 2025R's FEL is a better digger.

Below are pics: raised rows done with disc hillers, Frontier hog on 2025R, mulch hauling rig, Frontier hog on 1025R (oh, the 2025R has a multitude of different holes for the 3ph to get more lift, etc. Didn't have on the 4010 nor the 1025R), soil rippers shots and disc hillers.

Ralph

 

[RandyT]

I just acquired 3 acres of land in Zone 6B. I am starting a fruit tree orchard on one acre, and setting up a vegetable farm on another.

I am about to purchase a 1025R tractor (used tractors are not for me, I'm not a mechanic nor do I want to be). Here is what I think I need so far (and what I have quoted):

• 1025R Tractor (18 PTO hp)
• 120R Loader
• 60D MMM
• 54 in. Quick-Hitch Front Blade
• Rotary Tiller
• Middle Buster
• One-Row Cultivator
• Garden Bedder / Hiller
• 42" pallet forks

Is there anything I am missing? Does anyone have any experience with loader teeth, loader bucket/trencher, and front blade rubber sides/scraper from Artillian?

Any advice for a new tractor owner (I've never owned or operated one in my life!)

Excited to learn. Thanks!

Go check out Tractor time with Tim on youtube, he has most of the attachments that you talking about and how he used them. I think he is also a member here.

 

[WVH1977]

If you decide to go with the 1025r and are planning on planting on one acre for vegetables, you can always plant 4 feet apart. Then just run your tiller in between the rows. That would give you 25 rows of veggies if it is fairly square.

However, I agree with the others that a taller tractor is better for row crops and if you are willing to spend an extra $ 2000 to 3000 you can buy a farm-all with the cultivator attachment to go along with your 1025r. My neighbor has one for his acre + garden and that tractor keeps his rows cultivated nicely. He uses his bigger tractor for tilling.

I have a 40hp tractor and use a sub-soiler, tiller and cultivator for my garden. That has worked for me for years.

 

[mcfarmall]

If you're doing any ground-engaging tillage I'd get R1 ag tires. R4's are great for running around in your yard and not tearing stuff up but from my experience, they are lousy for dirt traction. I'd also be concerned with ground clearance and from my FIL's experience, a 3038e is just right for a 2 acre country estate.

 

[RalphVa]

For the fruit tree orchard, you do not want a tall tractor. I'm thinking the 2025R is the right tractor. I'd go with industrial tires. They're a good, tough choice between Ags and Turfs. For sure, you need turning brakes.

Below is my row maintenance rig on the soil ripper. You can get this change ability from stuff you can buy online from Ag mags.

I never used the row maintenance rig, but it's kind of like a cultivator for raised beds. Like I said, I went to no till.

Ralph

 

[MessickFarmEqu]

I'll echo thats a terrible tractor for your application. If a dealer lead you in that direction, find a new dealer.

 

[thehobbyfarmer]

Ok, guys, thanks so much for your feedback. I've called my dealer and switched it to the 2025R.