A ubiquitous 'which trailer for me' thread: tilt deck over.

[mojoinco]

Folks, it is time to upgrade from my bumper pull ~16' flat bed trailer.

Considerations for the trailer include: 3/4 Duramax truck, Titan 2.5" hitch, 9000# of hay or tractor (~6-7k#, plus a couple of implements), load unload with forks on tractor. Occasionally load a car or other awkward load. Want to minimize heavy ramps and high break over angle loading issues.
That has me focusing on a tilt, 14k-15.xxx k tilt trailer. Can be bumper, but leaning towards a goose neck (there is a time for maneuverability). Since you loose so much GCW to the GVW, I think the 15.x rating is the better choice. Why tilt? Awkward loads and no ramps to deal with (back and toe saver). Oh, and single wheels (versus duals).

Why the weight limit? Avoiding the DOT & CDL requirement (ok, DOT could be an issue if my business goes that way; merely leaving a door open).

So, opening the door to critical comments, I would appreciate your thoughts on: configurations/options, core equipment, etc. I do have the Max Brake controller. Staying with electric brakes.

Oh, and brands/models/experiences. Local to Colorado, but will entertain other area dealers.

Thanks!

 

[Diamondpilot]

Sounds like you got it figured out. For me though I would avoid the GN. It adds 600# or so and you really don't need it. You have plenty of truck and a proper hitch to handle these loads with a bumper pull.

Personal experience. I had a F350 SRW diesel and wanted to be "A Real Trucker". I bought a 25' GN Deckover. I realize you are looking at a low boy. I never like the trailer I bought. It's load angles were terrible, the load height was such it created tons of wind drag, it was a pain getting on the deck to chain down, but most of all the loss of my bed when towing really hurt.

I sold the GN and got a 18' BP. I actually had more room with my bed back and all in all was a much more enjoyable overall towing experience.

Chris

 

[mojoinco]

Thanks Chris, that is the kind of comments I am looking for. I need longer than 20'. That's what my tractor with an implement on it measures. I figured the tongue would be a good place to set the loader bucket/forks on. Then have room behind it -- not sure what else would fit though (if the tractor is already loaded). Came across this one locally:

PJ Gooseneck 22ft DECKOVER TILT TRAILER

Not beholden to a brand, but it looks like the PJs are a pretty good brand.

 

[George2615]

I upgraded from a 20' 7K tilt bed a couple years ago. I tow with a Chevy crew cab, auto, factory brake controller, 2.5" receiver, 4x4, 6.0, and 4.10 gears. I bought a PJ 22' 14K full tilt model TF for low deck height, no ramps, extra length, LED lights, easy loading of low ground clearance vehicles, 82" between the fenders, and power up and down.
PJ Trailers | Powered Full Tilt
It give me a load capacity of just over 10K. I added a 9K winch, and remote control for the power tilt (so I can drive or winch a vehicle on and tilt the bed back down without getting out) and an extra chain box. My combo keeps me under the 26K. My tractor with a couple attachments and loaded tires weighs +or- 6K. and 22' (actual bed incl. tail is 23'9") is plenty long enough.

 

[Fallon]

I've got a 16' 14k lbs all steel tilting deck I really like. It's a Dun-Rite. From what I can tell they are a small trailer fab & repair shop in north Denver (means the trailer may have never ventured over a couple hours from where it was born in the dozen odd years since, only a couple in my posession) The only way 16' works for me though is dropping the bucket on the extremely long tongue. Even then I'm looking at a longer tilting deck. Either a 20", or maybe even 22". Extra distance to balance stuff is nice.

Without ballast up front tilting decks are intrinsically to light in tongue weight. You want 15% of the weight on the tongue. A tilting deck pivots & balances between the rear axle. Towing it home from the auction with my Tacoma was not so fun until I shoveled a couple hundred lbs of snow on the front. It behaved above 55 after that. The F250 doesn't have problems with it unloaded though.

Get one without a rim around the deck. The 4-6" rim on mine sucks when trying to load or unload.

 

[George2615]

Without ballast up front tilting decks are intrinsically to light in tongue weight. You want 15% of the weight on the tongue. A tilting deck pivots & balances between the rear axle. Towing it home from the auction with my Tacoma was not so fun until I shoveled a couple hundred lbs of snow on the front. It behaved above 55 after that. The F250 doesn't have problems with it unloaded though.

This is not the case with all tilt bed trailers. My PJ full tilt. axles are placed back approx. like the 60/40 rule. I have almost 1200# of tongue weight empty on a trailer that weighs about 3800#. Deck pivots behind the rear axles, not between.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Thanks Chris, that is the kind of comments I am looking for. I need longer than 20'. That's what my tractor with an implement on it measures. I figured the tongue would be a good place to set the loader bucket/forks on. Then have room behind it -- not sure what else would fit though (if the tractor is already loaded). Came across this one locally: PJ Gooseneck 22ft DECKOVER TILT TRAILER Not beholden to a brand, but it looks like the PJs are a pretty good brand.

I would not want to put a 20' tractor on a 20' trailer. There are tons of threads going on where a guy bought too small of a trailer and even with a HD truck the load can not be balanced.

I would get a 24' trailer. Buy once and buy right!

Chris

 

[Fallon]

This is not the case with all tilt bed trailers. My PJ full tilt. axles are placed back approx. like the 60/40 rule. I have almost 1200# of tongue weight empty on a trailer that weighs about 3800#. Deck pivots behind the rear axles, not between.

Fair enough. Mine is that way & most of what I've seen is similar. Big Tex seems to be designed the same as mine with a longer tongue & 4-8 foot non tilting deck up front. More area & more weight to properly weight the front & tongue even with a balanced tilting deck centered on the axle. I'm not opposed to that design & keep eyeing them as a possible replacement.

 

[George2615]

Fair enough. Mine is that way & most of what I've seen is similar. Big Tex seems to be designed the same as mine with a longer tongue & 4-8 foot non tilting deck up front. More area & more weight to properly weight the front & tongue even with a balanced tilting deck centered on the axle. I'm not opposed to that design & keep eyeing them as a possible replacement.

I have also seen many tilt beds that do pivot between the axles. I was just noting mine didn't.
In fact, my previous tilt bed pivot point was actually in the front. I didn't care for the fact it actually raised one axle off the ground when tilted but it also had plenty of tongue weight so it was never a problem.

 

[Fallon]

I have also seen many tilt beds that do pivot between the axles. I was just noting mine didn't.
In fact, my previous tilt bed pivot point was actually in the front. I didn't care for the fact it actually raised one axle off the ground when tilted but it also had plenty of tongue weight so it was never a problem.

Seen that style too & not impressed. It seems cheap. A lot of work to pump up that cylinder to tilt as opposed to a properly balanced deck. On mine I can walk to one end or the other & jump, then it will tilt appropriately. I rarely bother with that now when loading as the front wheels tilt it just fine on their own when they touch the end of the deck.