A couple of loader hydraulic questions

   / A couple of loader hydraulic questions #1  

Kernopelli

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
2,209
Location
Carterville, Illinois
Tractor
Mitsubishi MTE2000D, Dig It 258 Mini Ex, Deere Z930A ZTR
I have a ford/new holland loader valve and have blown a hydraulic hose on the loader and broke the hydraulic pump in the past. I have just been running the loader at low engine speeds since to keep the pressure low and avoid problems. I know this not a good idea to continue this and need to address the problem before I break something again ( I don't mind changing a hose now and then but replacing a $350 pump or damaging the tractor significantly by lifting too much are another story). I assume the joystick valve has a relief valve in it and that it is not working or opens at too high of pressure level. Can someone recommend how to test the relief valve? Are they usually adjustable? And can someone identify the relief valve from the picture in the following link. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...97-ford-1220-fel-hydraulic-valve-img_4169.jpg

Thanks,
Darryl
 
   / A couple of loader hydraulic questions #2  
Top left of the picture on the left end. Should be a plug there for the pressure relief. Can't see where there is any room for one elsewhere.

It is usually very close to the hydraulic inlet.

The adjustable ones will have a cap you take off and a screw or nut to turn. Down (tighter) is higher pressure. Out (looser) is less pressure. You have to test it with gage. They are cheap. 0-3000 psi.

jb
 
   / A couple of loader hydraulic questions #3  
Looks like it would be across the top of that picture, as mentioned probably with a plug on one end or the other. The adjustable ones usually have a exposed nut with a locknut. Yours may be factory set using shim washers. If there is a plug on one end or the other, of the red valve body at the top of your pic, try removing it and see what is underneath. You will probably find a washer or two, a spring and a valve seat. The tension on this spring determines at what pressure the seat opens and starts to relieve pressure. If the plug sets the tension, then their will probably be some form of setscrew along the valve body that holds it at it's set point.

To check the hydraulic safety release pressure, buy a hydraulic pressure gauge with the same type fitting that your hoses on the working ports(hoses running out to cylinders) of the valve use. If you are expecting 2000 PSI, buy a 0-3000 gauge. Remove one of the hoses and screw the gauge into the port where the hose was. Before removing the hose, Make sure the loader is solidly on the ground, engine is off and no pressure is on any of the lines by working the valve to all it's positions. And of course when working with hydraulics, always wear eye protection. A jet of high pressure fluid can ruin an eyeball in short order. Place the hose you disconnect into a bucket and secure it there. This is in case you send fluid to the wrong port. If you do this a cylinder will move and the fluid forced back from the other side of the cylinder will flow out of the hose and into the bucket. Start up the tractor and try and send fluid to the port you attached the gauge to. Since the fluid has no where to go(dead headed into the gauge), you should quickly reach the safety valve opening pressure and get a wooshing sound as the fluid flows thru the safety. The pressure reading on the gauge while this is happening is the set pressure of the safety valve. Any adjustments you make can be tested in this fashion and when completed, the gauge can be removed and the hose re-attached to the working port.

If you want a permanent gauge, you will have to add a "T" onto the fluid input line into the valve and put the gauge onto the open port on the "T". With this in place, you can check the safety pressure anytime by just running a cylinder to it's end stop(full up, full down, full curl or full dump). When the cylinders reach their end stop, the safety will open and the relief pressure will be displayed. A permanent gauge also can help you estimate just how much load you are lifting.

If your pump is working OK, you should still be able to reach full pressure at lower engine RPM's, it will just take a little longer to do so as the lower RPM means it is moving less volume per minute.
 
   / A couple of loader hydraulic questions
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks for the input guys. I have a 3000psi gauge already, just wasnt sure if it mattered what line I put it in and if I used the gauge to deadhead it or put it in-line. Thanks for all the info. Anyone have any input on where to purchase metal hydraulic lines for my loader? I built my loader and was surprised to not be able to fine hard lines to run down the loader arms. I ended up just using 3/8" hose and would like to replace them with metal like OEM loaders use but where the heck can a guy get them?

Thanks again
DK
 
   / A couple of loader hydraulic questions #5  
DK:

For metal lines, Discount Hydraulic Hose has two types of metal tube fittings that do not require welding or flaring. One type (made by Eaton) connects tube to JIC 37 male flares and the other type has its own end fittings that adapt to pipe (NPT). I have used both and had good results in a 2500psi system. When you see them you wonder how the compression ferrules that go around the tube can possibly make a tight joint, but they do. I prefer the JIC "flareless" because you have access to all the JIC male fittings, and they are a little more compact than the standard "Flareless". The tube itself is available locally or from places like McMaster Carr (which is my favorite). The 1/4" tube is easy to bend, the 3/8" a bit more difficult, and the 1/2" and larger sizes are impossible to bend (properly) without a serious bender.
 
   / A couple of loader hydraulic questions #6  
DK, make sure you have a relief valve before deadheading.
larry
 
   / A couple of loader hydraulic questions #7  
SPYDERLK said:
DK, make sure you have a relief valve before deadheading.
larry

It has to have one, testing by putting the gauge into the valve work port is just the same as running that cylinder to it's end stop or trying to lift more than the loader hydraulics can handle on that circuit. If it can't handle that, it has real design issues and would not survive very long in normal use:)
 
   / A couple of loader hydraulic questions #8  
By the way... keeping rpm low only keeps the flow low.. pressure should still be the same once it runs up against an obstruction.. etc..

Soundguy

Kernopelli said:
I have a ford/new holland loader valve and have blown a hydraulic hose on the loader and broke the hydraulic pump in the past. I have just been running the loader at low engine speeds since to keep the pressure low and avoid problems. I know this not a good idea to continue this and need to address the problem before I break something again ( I don't mind changing a hose now and then but replacing a $350 pump or damaging the tractor significantly by lifting too much are another story). I assume the joystick valve has a relief valve in it and that it is not working or opens at too high of pressure level. Can someone recommend how to test the relief valve? Are they usually adjustable? And can someone identify the relief valve from the picture in the following link. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...97-ford-1220-fel-hydraulic-valve-img_4169.jpg

Thanks,
Darryl
 
   / A couple of loader hydraulic questions #9  
RonMar said:
It has to have one, testing by putting the gauge into the valve work port is just the same as running that cylinder to it's end stop or trying to lift more than the loader hydraulics can handle on that circuit. If it can't handle that, it has real design issues and would not survive very long in normal use:)
Im reading broken pump, blown hoses. Hes being careful with speed and lift because hes worried about overpressure. Dont see the relief valve. I say find it.-- then make sure it works before intentional deadheading.
larry
 
   / A couple of loader hydraulic questions #10  
Pump pressure will be constant when under load.. flow is what will change with engine rpm..

Soundguy
 

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