A bracket is needed simple 90 degree ell from 1X4 hot rolled

CalG · May 23, 2015

I don't often weld up anything that really needs to be square. This little project (a wet saw upright) needs to end up "square enough"/

As described in the header, the stock is 1" X 4 Inch hot rolled. Two pieces to be joined at a right angle.

The question is "how much compensation to put into the jigging to allow the securing tacks to hold the parts at 90 degrees"?

The plan is to prepare the upright which will stand on the base with deep bevels on both sides, leaving a milled flat at the apex to reference into the base piece.
The base will get a chamfer on the outside of the L to match the chamfer on the upright leg , but nothing except smooth clean metal on the inside corner. (fillet weld)

Where to start with the first tack? Inside or outside?
Second tack? Third?

How much to set off of true 90 to allow for draw in?

I'm just using an AC buzz box (SMAW) with 6000 and 7000 series fillers.

The plan is to mill the base to clean up the angle when all is done, but it would be nice not to need to remove too much metal.

Just an added detail, the finished fabricated part will have a 4 1/4 inch long base, and an eight inch long "leg". both from the same 1X4 hot rolled.
I could drill and counter bore the base for SCS, and then tap the leg, but for this application, I would prefer welding it . The part that is being replaced is a casting with a longer (13 inch) leg.

As I said. I don't mess with 1 inch material all that often. When I do, It's usually "fixtured" on some machine or other.

Suggestions and comments?

TIA

Cal

bigdeano · May 23, 2015

From my experience the only way it will be square when you're done is to clamp it very securely to a heavy square piece while you weld it. Maybe a large square tubing or angle iron. If you weld on it while it's not restrained it will move.

Shield Arc · May 23, 2015

This is how I would do it. Make 4 tacks. Check for square. Make corrections with a hammer. Make a small weld inside the bevel. Check for square. Make the second weld inside. Check for square. Let cool, check for square. Fill the bevel, let cool. Check for square. Make one maybe two welds on the inside to pull back square. Make the welds between tacks on both sides.

CalG · May 23, 2015

Thanks for that Shield Arc!

A plan is always good!

bigdeano, I've got some good square blocks to clamp up the part, but I've not seen clamping overcoming stress.

Shield Arc · May 23, 2015

You know this is one of those things I go with my gut. I make my tacks, check for square, that determines where I make my first weld. Check for square, that determines where I make the next weld, and how big / long.

When building things, weld sequence, back stepping, and skipping around a lot really helps with distortion. Also knowing when to walk away and let things cool down, is a big help.

CalG · May 24, 2015

The bracket came out PERFECTLY.

Jigged, tacked, checked, tacked some more, checked some more. Welded on the inside, just the center two inches. After the first pass on the outside, the square fit just as nice as you please.
Capped off the outside in one "zipper line" . The inside couldn't get a large fillet as there are mounting bolts that are located close to the upright.
The sun was too bright, and the light bouncing off the inside of the shield cut the contrast so bad I could barely see the weld path. Still came out OK. Good enough for the gals I go with.

I had to turn up a 4 in. dia X 3/8ths thick "washer" to make up for where the original casting had a boss. Fortunately I had a scrap of C.I. to cut off. Parting 1/2 inch off an inch and a half long slug is never fun. Better C.I. than steel though ;-)

Thanks for the comments!