I bush hogged today with my new (old) 8N. It's a great little tractor. I knew the left rear axle leaked around the flange where the axle bolts to the center section. How big of a ***** is that to fix and more importantly, another leak. It's some sort of hydraulic fluid seeping out from between the block and transmission and seems to leak a few ounces a day out of it. How painful is this to split the tractor here? Thanks.
8N leaking fluids
- Thread starter Mopar92
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xlr82v2
Platinum Member
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- Dec 3, 2004
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- 703
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- Southwestern Illinois
- Tractor
- 2007 Mahindra 3525, 1952 Ford 8N
Well, I can't help much with the leaking axle, but I've split a couple of 8N's in half. If you've got a smooth concrete floor and at least 1 floor jack and a bottle jack, it's really pretty easy and straightforward.
The oil that you're seeing dripping from the weep hole is gear oil that is leaking past the transmission input shaft seal. That seal is easy to change once you get the tractor split. Here's an exploded view of the tranny input shaft...
One mod that you may want to do while you've got your tractor split open is to drill a drain hole in the bottom of the "main drive gear bearing retainer" so that if that seal should start leaking again, it will drain out of the new drain hole that you just drilled instead of running all the way forward and draining into the clutch.
Like I said, when I replaced the seal on my tractor, I also replaced the clutch and pilot bearing... I did the whole job in just under 3 hours. You can do everything yourself pretty much, but it will be helpful to have someone to help when you mate the tractor back together. If you remove the clutch, you can also use the transmission input shaft as a clutch alignment tool as well.
The oil that you're seeing dripping from the weep hole is gear oil that is leaking past the transmission input shaft seal. That seal is easy to change once you get the tractor split. Here's an exploded view of the tranny input shaft...
One mod that you may want to do while you've got your tractor split open is to drill a drain hole in the bottom of the "main drive gear bearing retainer" so that if that seal should start leaking again, it will drain out of the new drain hole that you just drilled instead of running all the way forward and draining into the clutch.
Like I said, when I replaced the seal on my tractor, I also replaced the clutch and pilot bearing... I did the whole job in just under 3 hours. You can do everything yourself pretty much, but it will be helpful to have someone to help when you mate the tractor back together. If you remove the clutch, you can also use the transmission input shaft as a clutch alignment tool as well.
I figured if I am going to split this thing, It's getting a clutch just because.. 
Not to mention all that lube on the clutch... eeuuuck. Does the dash and all need to come apart to split it? I did buy an aftermarket manual for repairs. Figured it's a good idea. Thanks.
Not to mention all that lube on the clutch... eeuuuck. Does the dash and all need to come apart to split it? I did buy an aftermarket manual for repairs. Figured it's a good idea. Thanks.
xlr82v2
Platinum Member
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- Tractor
- 2007 Mahindra 3525, 1952 Ford 8N
No, the dash doesn't have to come apart, but you'll have to remove the hood and the battery box, and the toolbox in front of the dash if your tractor still has it. The fuel tank stays with the hood, so don't forget to disconnect the fuel line to the carb. Also, I forgot in my first post, you might need a helper to help you lift the hood, especially if your fuel tank is full. But other than that, it's a fairly painless operation.
If you got the I&T FO-4 manual, that will get you through a lot of stuff with the 8N.
I also saw that you're trying to get headlights working... I dont' know that there's a kit available... I'd just get a switch of your liking rated for at least 15 amps, some 14ga red and black wire, and wire them up. Get your power from the hot side of the terminal block. There is nothing complicated on this tractor (except for the draft/position control linkages for the 3PH...) so don't be afraid to tackle anything on it. Since you've already got the sealed beams, you should be able to get them burning for about $20 or less. While you have the hood off changing the input seal would also be a good time to wire the lights, since you'll have easier access to the headlight brackets inside the hood.
If you got the I&T FO-4 manual, that will get you through a lot of stuff with the 8N.
I also saw that you're trying to get headlights working... I dont' know that there's a kit available... I'd just get a switch of your liking rated for at least 15 amps, some 14ga red and black wire, and wire them up. Get your power from the hot side of the terminal block. There is nothing complicated on this tractor (except for the draft/position control linkages for the 3PH...) so don't be afraid to tackle anything on it. Since you've already got the sealed beams, you should be able to get them burning for about $20 or less. While you have the hood off changing the input seal would also be a good time to wire the lights, since you'll have easier access to the headlight brackets inside the hood.
Soundguy
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Yep.. that input shaft seal is a 3$ meany that requires the front split.
The axle housing needs a paper gasket.. not to bad to pull it with axle and hub if you have a cherry picker...
soundguy
The axle housing needs a paper gasket.. not to bad to pull it with axle and hub if you have a cherry picker...
soundguy
I don't have a cherry picker anymore. I figured the whole wheel/hub and axle needs to come out. I still wonder how heavy that axle is? I wondered if I made a cradle out of scrap steel and a floor jack or two if I could slide it out, put the new gasket in and put it back together. Thanks.
Soundguy
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
If you leave the trumpet and axle and hub together.. i imaging it weighs 200-250# or so..if you seperate it not so bad...
got another tractor with a boom pole.. or overhead hoist?
soundguy
got another tractor with a boom pole.. or overhead hoist?
soundguy
I have heard it's a semi floating axle. If I just take off the brake stuff, and then unbolt it from the axle center section, will this all come off as a hub,axle,brake drum , etc unit? I think that's what you are trying to tell me. In other words, the floating side of the axle is in the carrier, not the hub on the brake side of the axle. Thanks, Keith
Soundguy
Old Timer
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- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
As i said.. you can remove the entire assembled trumpet from the center section.
soundguy
soundguy