Oil & Fuel '73 Ford 3000 Diesel Won't Start........HELP!

[Nothing But Ford]

To make this short:

I bought a '73 Ford 3000 Diesel from a guy who disclosed to me when I went to look at it that it needed a new solenoid. He also showed me how to start it with a screw-driver. The price was right, I bought it.

I used it a bit and have finally replaced the solenoid..... Tractor still will not start.

When I say "Won't start" I mean I get nothing. No clicking (solenoid). No starter motor (obviously). NOTHING.

For the record, battery is good and the instrument cluster lights up.

Any questions? Any ideas?

 

[dave1949]

Ignition switch? Starter solenoid relay? I know nothing of this tractor, but those would be two of the usual suspects.

 

[Nothing But Ford]

Do you know of a way to test those? As opposed to me going out and just replacing them......

I hadn't given them a thought-

 

[crankshaft21]

There is about 3 things that could bad. The ignition wire, soloniod, key switch. From what you wrote, I would say its the ignition wire. Run a wire from the key switch start leg to the soloniod and see if that works.

 

[dave1949]

Do you know of a way to test those? As opposed to me going out and just replacing them......

I hadn't given them a thought-

I hate to say - it's been too many years. I think I would try to eliminate the ignition switch first. Check the simplest things first. Clean and tighten connections everywhere. You should take the positive cable off the battery while doing this to avoid shorting something.

If that doesn't do it, would you know how to 'hot wire' start using the connections on the back of ignition switch? If you do, try that. If you don't, find a safer method using a voltmeter where you won't be melting wires. If you can hot wire start it at the switch, its the switch that's bad.
Dave.

 

[MikesTractor]

The Ford 3000 has a neutral safety switch under the transmission cover. The hi/low lever (the short one) has to be in neutral before it will start. There are 2 wires that come out of the transmission cover just ahead of the shifters. If you follow these wires, you will have to remove the steering shroud, there should be a plug on these wires. Unplug the wires and put a short jumper across the 2 that go up under the dash.

PLEASE BE CAREFUL! DO NOT STAND ON THE GROUND TO START THE TRACTOR! THIS WILL DISABLE THE NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH!

If the neutral safety switch is bad, remove the shifter cover and replace it. This is a very easy job.

Again, Please be careful if you bypass any safety.

Mike

 

[Nothing But Ford]

Well, now this gives me some direction. Between the last few posts I definately have some items to eliminate off the "not in working order" board.

Mikes Tractor: I never would have thought of this! I may try and check that first before I move on to the ignition switch and cables. I appreciate the heads up and will let you all know how it goes today.

 

[king1]

my 2810 has the same style switch on the high/low and it takes some jiggling of the lever to find the spot the switch is at. the lever on mine likes to be pushed to the upper right hand corner while still in the nuetral position.

 

[Nothing But Ford]

Update:

Still no success....

I completed all the checks you guys suggested except for Mikes Tractos'. I checked the ignition switch and saw power coming to. I then checked the cable from the ignition switch to the solenoid and found with the multi-meter that there is NEGATIVE POWER when the key is turned to the "start" position and then .4 amps when the key is in the "on" position. Ok..... Is that wire my problem? All the wires AT the ignition switch are showing 12 volts-

Tomorrow I will be checking the "Neutral Safety Switch." I didn't even know the tractor had one, nor had I heard of one before, thanks Mike! So I investigated. I took some pictures in case someone reading was curious as well, and hopefully I will NOT have to open the transmission case again to look (or replace the switch).

First picture: Shifters and panel in-tact. You can see the two wires entering the transmission on the left (near the shifters)

Second picture: This is the panel open to the tranny. You can see the wires ending in the neutral safety switch.

 

[dave1949]

Update:

Still no success....

I completed all the checks you guys suggested except for Mikes Tractos'. I checked the ignition switch and saw power coming to. I then checked the cable from the ignition switch to the solenoid and found with the multi-meter that there is NEGATIVE POWER when the key is turned to the "start" position and then .4 amps when the key is in the "on" position. Ok..... Is that wire my problem? All the wires AT the ignition switch are showing 12 volts-
.

You will get all sorts of mostly meaningless readings measuring amperes. Do your checks measuring DC volts. To measure amperes with a common volt-ohm meter, you would need to make the meter part of the circuit being measured. Set your meter to DC volts in a range high enough to read 15v.

Maybe the easiest way is to clamp your black meter lead to a good metal ground, just about any bare metal frame/engine part should be a good ground. Verify that you have a good ground by touching the red lead to someplace you are 100% certain there is 12v present. Then, using the red lead of the meter, touch contacts you believe should have power to them. For example, you should read ~12v touching the wire on the ignition switch that brings power from the battery, then on the contact for auxilliary circuits like lights when the key is 'on' and then on the contact for the wire that goes from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid relay when the key is the 'start' position.

Using the same techique, you should be able to see if the neutral switch is working. I wish I knew the sequence of how this switch is wired into your ignition circuit so I could give you more detailed advice.

Anyways, it comes down to using the volt meter to track power through the circuits, you use your logic to know if power should be present or not.

If you disconnect all the wires from the ignition switch, you can use the ohm meter function to verify the contacts in the switch are actually working. You know some are already or the lights wouldn't work. To do this connect either red or black lead to the contact on the switch where battery power is supplied, leave it connected there. Connect the other lead to any other contact. By turning the key you should be able to see the resistance go from infinite to zero. Check for continuity (zero or near zero ohms) on all contacts. The starter wire contact should only go to zero when you have the key in the start position.

It takes some patience and more thought than action, you will get the hang of it. Remember to check your meter setting - volts or ohms - when changing what you intend to measure. Applying voltage to a meter set to measure ohms is not good for the meter. I think most modern meters protect against this, in the old days you would either blow a fuse in the meter or sometimes the meter was ruined.

Dave.