5w-30 Shell Gas Truck Synthetic vs Mobil 1 Synthetic

[deerefan]

Bought the Shell at Tractor Supply, 6qts for $24+tax. Much cheaper than equivalent Mobil 1 by roughly $20. This is for my 2015 F150 2.7eb. Meets Ford specs too. What gives? Is this good oil? Why so much cheaper? The reviews were positive*

 

[Robin Veerman]

Pretty basic info that you gave us, only brand names not actual oil label, makes it difficult to compare the two oils. You need to use the best oil that you can find, that meets the specs that your truck requires, in order to protect the turbo(s) as well as the engine components. Oil requirements only specify minimum standards that they must meet. The cost of oil isn't what you need to be looking at, instead you need to compare data info to find the best bang for your buck. Do you want to buy the typical house built by a Home builder or do you want the house that he built for himself? There will be a price difference between the two even though they are both built to minimum industry standards. I've used AMSOIL for years and to me there is no other oil that I'd rather use in my truck. Dutchy

 

[Gary Fowler]

If you bought the Shell T6 oil, it should be equivalent in quality to the Mobil 1. There are several grades of T grade Shell oil, T4 is not synthetic while T6 is full synthetic just as the Mobil 1 oil. For some reason Mobil / Exxon thinks their oil is worth more than other synthetic brands.

Maybe they are, but I use the Shell T6 in everything I own-motorcycle, boat motor (4 stroke), cars, truck , tractors and even my lawnmowers not so much because it is cheaper but because it is rated for gasoline and diesel engines and has no friction modifiers in it so I can also use it in my motorcycles wet clutch.

 

[deerefan]

Being a family man on a budget, I try to catch oil on sale and buy it. I bought 6qts of this for $27 after tax. $20 cheaper than Mobil 1, both meeting Ford specs. I am by no means an oil expert, just run what I feel is a quality synthetic and change it about every 6500 miles. Not sure what makes this oil better or worse than others.

 

[RickB]

There is very little bad engine oil out there and even fewer engine failures attributable to oil when the engine manufacturers specs are met.

 

[LD1]

Where were you previously buying the mobile from?

I run mobile full syn in my gas stuff. Its always $25/5qt jug at Walmart. Sure....$24/6qt at TSC for the shell is a better deal....but not $20 cheaper for me

 

[RalphVa]

More than likely the Shell stuff is Group III hydrotreated dino oil. M1 is from PAO feedstock (this makes it expensive) and Group IV. I went to using 0w20 M1 in my Tacoma. It just wasn't available when it was made; so they put 5w30 on the lid. Use 0w20 in all my gas, water-cooled, engines and 5w30 currently in air cooled and diesel. Plan to convert to 0w30 M1 ESP in diesels when I run out of the 5w30 Castrol (Gr III) stuff bought with VW $.

Ralph

 

[deerefan]

Where were you previously buying the mobile from?

I run mobile full syn in my gas stuff. Its always $25/5qt jug at Walmart. Sure....$24/6qt at TSC for the shell is a better deal....but not $20 cheaper for me

Tractor Supply and Autozone. Never checked Walmart, though I try to stay away from there for a few reasons

 

[fried1765]

Pretty basic info that you gave us, only brand names not actual oil label, makes it difficult to compare the two oils. You need to use the best oil that you can find, that meets the specs that your truck requires, in order to protect the turbo(s) as well as the engine components. Oil requirements only specify minimum standards that they must meet. The cost of oil isn't what you need to be looking at, instead you need to compare data info to find the best bang for your buck. Do you want to buy the typical house built by a Home builder or do you want the house that he built for himself? There will be a price difference between the two even though they are both built to minimum industry standards. I've used AMSOIL for years and to me there is no other oil that I'd rather use in my truck. Dutchy

Major difference of opinion here on Amzoil!

Changed transmission filter on 65K GMC Jimmy transmission, and replaced fluid with Amzoil transmission fluid.
5,000 miles later transmission would not shift at all.
Vehicle would only move at a snail's pace.
Dumped Amzoil transmission oli, and replaced with new filter, and conventional brand name fluid.

Vehicle began to move and shift.
Changed filter, and fluid twice more.
Vehicle operated normally for 80,000 more miles, and was operating normally when I sold it.

No more AMZOIL anything (snake oil) for me,....ever again!

 

[Texasmark]

More than likely the Shell stuff is Group III hydrotreated dino oil. M1 is from PAO feedstock (this makes it expensive) and Group IV. I went to using 0w20 M1 in my Tacoma. It just wasn't available when it was made; so they put 5w30 on the lid. Use 0w20 in all my gas, water-cooled, engines and 5w30 currently in air cooled and diesel. Plan to convert to 0w30 M1 ESP in diesels when I run out of the 5w30 Castrol (Gr III) stuff bought with VW $.

Ralph

Better check the starbirst on the container. I use 0-20 or 30 depending on vehicle, M1 in my on road gas vehicles as it's rated S-"N" last time I looked; no reference to diesel engines. I use Rot T6 in my Bransons and is C (obviously) and S rated last time I looked on the S rating. Not up on additives but C has soot reducers and other goodies C engines need with their higher compression ratios that S engines don't/don't need....last time I looked.