580ck loader valve

[andy47872]

Hi, I have an old 580ck, with a loader and a three point & pto instead of a backhoe. It has no remote hyd hookup, and I'm thinkin I could plumb off the loader valve to another valve to get remote hyd cheaper than collecting all the parts to put factory remotes on it. Does anyone know which ports on the loader valve body would go to the backhoe? I think it is a #33 loader. Thanks for any helpful input...Andy

 

[J_J]

The PB from the loader would be a source of hyd flow for the BH.

 

[BukitCase]

I have the 580B with backhoe, also found a factory 3 point for it and a gannon scraper - that 3point is a more industrial unit with power down, top and tilt, and uses the same two hoses from the loader that feeds a backhoe.

If you look at your loader valve, you should find a 1" hard line coming off the inside of the valve, closest to your leg when you're driving - this is the PB line out of the loader valve, and right now it should go via that 1" hard line, under the floor plates and to a hose with a quick disconnect - that hose should connect to the 4 valve control for your 3ph - front lever is up/down, second one (IIRC) is side tilt, third one is pitch (front-back tilt) and fourth one (if you have it) is an auxiliary. I use the 4th one for rippers on my Gannon box scraper.

when I change over from backhoe to 3point, the two hoses that hook up to the hitch control get taken off, temporarily mated together while moving over to the 3 point hitch, then separated and connected to the hitch. (marking them shouldn't be necessary, one's male and the other's female)

all the connections on the BOTTOM of your loader valve are Pressure(pump), Tank, and lift/curl circuits. See attached photo for other connections.

In my opinion, there are two sane ways to approach this - either re-route the hose that supplies pressure to your hitch so that it first goes into a new control valve with PB, then take that PB out to your existing valves for the hitch - you would also need another tee to tie your tank returns (including tank return from your NEW valve) together (see photo)

Second way - buy a new stacked control valve with enough spools to do ALL you want (including the hitch) besides the loader, and run the PB from loader valve into that - return to tank thru the existing 1" line (the tee in photo) - advantage to that is you can add circuits later if you want. Disadvantage is cost.

Speaking of cost, hold onto your hat when you price 1" JIC/ORB connections.

One more thing - if you intend to get a hoe for your tractor, you will (I believe) need a NON-PTO rear plate for your transaxle - I'm pretty sure the pto shaft will interfere with the backhoe, but I'm not sure exactly how far out the pto shaft protrudes so maybe not.

Any other questions feel free to ask, I have more pix from rebuilding my loader control joystick... Steve

If the text in pic isn't legible enough, click the pic to enlarge.

 

[andy47872]

Thanks for the pic, but mine doesnt have the hard lines, or any lines going back. The 3 point is of the ag type, one lever, up and down, with no down pressure. I think I can use the ports that your steel lines use to get remotes, maybe?

 

[BukitCase]

Maybe - I've not seen a case with an ag type 3ph, can you post a few pix showing similar angles of your loader valve, maybe one shot from near the gear shift, and one showing where your 3ph gets its hydraulic feed?

If your loader valve is the same as mine, the large plug on the outside (away from the operator) is the alternate pressure input, and the center plug is for a test gauge. straight toward the center of the tractor on the opposing side of the valve, the large port is the PB port. IF that goes to the 3ph, you would need to break that line and insert your extra remotes there. You'd still need to tee all returns back to tank. Very few control valves will allow full back pressure on their tank returns without blowing seals, UNLESS they have a PB plug installed - these are typically a stepped plug with a couple of 0 rings, and its purpose is to ISOLATE the lower pressure tank gallery from the full pressure input gallery.

I've not had mine far enough apart to see how case accomplished this, you'd probably need to mark and disconnect ALL hoses/lines from the loader valve in order to get it apart far enough to see how the PB output is set up... Steve

 

[andy47872]

Steve, I cant take pics till I take the heat houser off, and its still too cold for that. The operators manual calls the three point the draft-o-matic, and it uses the tractors hyd system, not the hyd pump on the front of the engine.

 

[BukitCase]

No problem - if your loader valve just goes back to tank, there may be just a plug in the PB port - if so, you might need to chase down a PB plug, they are different. IF you're not gonna run anything as thirsty as a hoe, you could probably bush down to smaller lines for other remotes, that could save some $$$ by using smaller fittings. I would still go for a stacked valve, since a mono block valve isn't nearly as easy to add on another circuit later if you change your mind.

I have a couple sources for parts for the older cases, don't know if they'd have the PB plug or not. It would be necessary to add to your existing loader valve if it's not already there. Otherwise, you might need to replace the loader valve itself in order to expand. Let's hope not... Steve

It just dawned on me, you said your loader is a #33 - Pretty sure mine is a model 35, so your control valve might be different than mine. Guess we'll find out when you warm up...

http://classic.wunderground.com/cgi...ast?query=Rockville, Indiana&wuSelect=WEATHER

Maybe next June??!? Brrrr....