Anybody know the differences between the d and the f series? I am in the market for a toolcat and want to get the better deal. Does the f-series have more of the emissions junk that I certainly do not want? Lift capacity any different? Dealer said there might be some differences in the traction sensors like they were tweaked and maybe a little more lift capacity but he was not sure. Said they just quit making the d-series and are starting f-series production. Anyone know anything about this?
5610 d series vs f-series
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radman1
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Didn't even know there was an F series. The F series is 61hp and the prior D was 56 hp. The F is interim tier IV. My guess is the machine is probably basically the same. Could have a few minor tweaks.
The interim IV engines in ag tractors now use either DPF or urea to meet emissions. Not sure if that has yet filtered down to the smaller diesels.
The interim IV engines in ag tractors now use either DPF or urea to meet emissions. Not sure if that has yet filtered down to the smaller diesels.
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Spudgunner
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There's a thread around here somewhere about weak tie rods on "D" series. Since I broke one of mine some weeks ago I was wondering if BC would cover a replacement. I contacted Bobcat and a guy got back to me basically saying, "No"...but that stronger tie rods were being installed on the "next series" of machines. I took this to mean the 5610's, but now it sounds like perhaps he was talking about the F's. I would think that all recent 5600's and 5610's would be getting the higher strength part regardless of "series". I do have a new tie rod and when it warms up I'll compare it to the old (which is still on my TC with a splint welded-in).
DEWFPO
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The D series are also Interim Tier 4 (iT4) compliant. Also, all the info I have on my 2009 5600 is that it is 59 HP (@2,800 rpm) gross.
DEWFPO
This could be a big deal if they fixed or improved the traction problems on the D. As you'll recall, the D was fitted with a new transaxle/drive system which was advertised to meet all applications and traction situations. Unfortunatly, for me anyway, it was tuned to minimize turf disturbance (which occurs with a true four wheel drive differential system) at the expense of off road traction.
Unlike earlier versions, the D does not provide a differential lock. This design results in an increased safety risk from roll over.
Regarding tie rods, I've replaced all of mine (after two broke) with the beefier units which they'll supply for free if you complain enough.
Since my hour meter has now crashed ($1,000+ to replace), I wonder if they take a trade-in on a low hour machine for a new "F."
Unlike earlier versions, the D does not provide a differential lock. This design results in an increased safety risk from roll over.
Regarding tie rods, I've replaced all of mine (after two broke) with the beefier units which they'll supply for free if you complain enough.
Since my hour meter has now crashed ($1,000+ to replace), I wonder if they take a trade-in on a low hour machine for a new "F."
P.S. on my previous post about traction on the D series:
To test whether the F series has better traction than the D series, do the following:
Position the machine 1-2" in front of a bollard, wall or other unmovable object (for safety purposes). Jack off the ground one of the tires on the front of the machine and one of the tires on the rear. Attempt to drive the machine forward. If it doesn't move you have a dud, or "D." Reverse the machine and follow the same procedure to check it in reverse.
This is what the factory did for me to determine that the machine is "operating as designed."
Obviously, this design is not what I expected from the performance literature I received prior to purchase. But the real issue is that people should be very careful when operating this machine on any kind of slope. If you get stuck and try to drive yourself out on a slope, like you would with a 4 wheel drive machine, you'll slide downhill and potentially tip over- a rather scary situation to find yourself in.
To mitigate this problem, you might be able to improve traction by adding 1,000 lbs. or so of ballast in the bed. This seems to be what people do in snow country (along with chains and a more aggressive tire).
To test whether the F series has better traction than the D series, do the following:
Position the machine 1-2" in front of a bollard, wall or other unmovable object (for safety purposes). Jack off the ground one of the tires on the front of the machine and one of the tires on the rear. Attempt to drive the machine forward. If it doesn't move you have a dud, or "D." Reverse the machine and follow the same procedure to check it in reverse.
This is what the factory did for me to determine that the machine is "operating as designed."
Obviously, this design is not what I expected from the performance literature I received prior to purchase. But the real issue is that people should be very careful when operating this machine on any kind of slope. If you get stuck and try to drive yourself out on a slope, like you would with a 4 wheel drive machine, you'll slide downhill and potentially tip over- a rather scary situation to find yourself in.
To mitigate this problem, you might be able to improve traction by adding 1,000 lbs. or so of ballast in the bed. This seems to be what people do in snow country (along with chains and a more aggressive tire).
DEWFPO
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D -> F? What happened to the "E" series?
DEWFPO
DEWFPO
Don't know what happened to E. My f series is on the way. Precleaner not available at this point. I will figure something out though. Maybe the new filter setup draws higher up and is less prone to clogging. Will see. Should be here late April.
