56 HP Kubota clutch repair costing $5k

[alaarp]

I work two days a week driving someone else's tractor and pulling a finishing mower. The Kubota clutch went out after 730 hours and was sent to the selling dealer. After four weeks it was returned with a bill for $5,000. Is this within reason? On top of that the clutch pedal now sticks to the floor and has to be pried upward with my boot. Neither the owner nor I am happy with this repair.

 

[5030]

Depends entirely on their labor rate and if it was a cab or open station unit as well. Cab tractors require much more disassembly than an comparable open station of similar size.

On a cab unit, you don't just split them at the bell housing, lost of ancillary stuff has to be disconnected, like AC for instance

I knew that going in which is why both of mine are hydraulic shuttle. No clutch to replace.

I would be returning it to the dealer if the clutch pedal is not returning but that could be as simple as a missing return spring.

 

[ruffdog]

I work two days a week driving someone else's tractor and pulling a finishing mower. The Kubota clutch went out after 730 hours and was sent to the selling dealer. After four weeks it was returned with a bill for $5,000. Is this within reason? On top of that the clutch pedal now sticks to the floor and has to be pried upward with my boot. Neither the owner nor I am happy with this repair.

Wrong parts or throwout bearing installed backwards....hmmm. Something not right there.

 

[5030]

.. and as usual, more info needed.

 

[TractorTech]

Cab or no cab, labor should be only slightly more. A/C compressor and condenser generally can be peeled away from the engine and hung on the cab without breaking the lines. If the system needs to be evacuated and recharged, a good tech will get the discharge procedure going while splitting the tractor. Recharge would add an hour or two max.

Pedal to the floor could be as simple as the tech forgot to put the pedal return spring back on.

Labor is a big factor - $2,500-3,000 of the bill. Type of clutch (if double clutch, $$$) and OEM vs aftermarket make the other difference.

 

[sea2summit]

Anytime you have to split you’re at 1k before you do any other work, possibly more depending on cab or not as others said. 3-5k is probably about what I’d figure for a transmission. But manual transmission…I’d be dang tempted to attempt that one myself.

 

[5030]

Labor rates (shop rates) have gone through the roof as well as replacement parts costs and a dealer will always use OEM parts anyway and like was stated previously, splitting a tractor for a clutch replacement is all labor anyway. Far as the comment about 'peeling away' the AC system on a split, there is a lot of other components that require 'peeling away' besides the AC.

 

[alaarp]

Depends entirely on their labor rate and if it was a cab or open station unit as well. Cab tractors require much more disassembly than an comparable open station of similar size.

On a cab unit, you don't just split them at the bell housing, lost of ancillary stuff has to be disconnected, like AC for instance

I knew that going in which is why both of mine are hydraulic shuttle. No clutch to replace.

I would be returning it to the dealer if the clutch pedal is not returning but that could be as simple as a missing return spring.

It is a cab tractor so that makes more sense. Thanks.

 

[2manyrocks]

Is a HST transmission more durable than a standard clutch for mowing applications these days? It would seem like a no brainer to spend another $1-2k up front for the HST if it's going to outlast a clutch that is going to cost $5K at 730 hours. Wouldn't you typically expect more life from a clutch than 730 hours?

 

[5030]

Is a HST transmission more durable than a standard clutch for mowing applications these days? It would seem like a no brainer to spend another $1-2k up front for the HST if it's going to outlast a clutch that is going to cost $5K at 730 hours. Wouldn't you typically expect more life from a clutch than 730 hours?

That all depends on how much power you need and the end use.

I have to say I never wore out a clutch all the time I drove over the road in a big truck but then one, I kept my foot off the clutch and only used it when coming to a complete stop and starting again.

I mow all the time with either of my M9's with gear transmissions but then again, I have no clutch, my 'clutch' is a wet multi pack with pressure application.

One unit is approaching 7000 hours and the other 4000 hours and neither have ever needed any adjustment at all. Actually, the clamping and release pressure is right at the values specified in the shop manual.