5254 Air Filter replacement alternatives

[wojnaroski]

I am sure that everyone who has a 5254 knows just how expensive the air filter is to replace.

I know the air filter is important, but why should an air filter for a sub-compact tractor cost $20-$40? I am not ready just yet to replace mine. But I am thinking hard about alternatives. Has anyone tried to remove the metal top part from the original and place it over a standard air filter (fram, wix, etc.)?

 

[cp1969]

Another alternative would be to install a restriction indicator so that you don't replace the expensive filter any more often than you need to.

 

[wojnaroski]

I am not familiar with this item. Could you please explain further. Perhaps provide some links for further research. Thanks.

 

[wojnaroski]

Should have also explained that I am doing work in extremely dusty conditions, landscaping around my home. While I wash the pre-filter often, the paper element looks dirty already. Only 55 hours on my machine.

We have always used a blower to blow the dust off the air filter. Now everyone I talk to says that this is wrong. Just can't see how putting a dusty filter back in the machine is right.

 

[cp1969]

There is a thread over in Customization about Filterminders. You can read about them at the Filterminder website .

I just put one on my Kubota. They are ESPECIALLY useful for filters that are being used in extreme conditions. Taking a pleated paper filter out for inspection or cleaning, in my book, is a no-no.

 

[DmansPadge]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( We have always used a blower to blow the dust off the air filter. Now everyone I talk to says that this is wrong. Just can't see how putting a dusty filter back in the machine is right. )</font>

What they probably mean is that if you are going to blow it off... you should blow it from the inside out. Blowing directly into the outside (dirty) surface, you are simply pushing the dust and dirt further into the filter.

 

[DmansPadge]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I am not familiar with this item. Could you please explain further. Perhaps provide some links for further research. Thanks. )</font>

Check out FilterMinder.com. Plenty of info on there.

 

[wojnaroski]

Yes, I have always used that method. The manual states "do not use compressed air to clean the filter". The dealer says the same.

Maybe I am wrong, but I believe that leaving a dusty filter "as is" is wrong. And who can afford to replace this filter very often at $25-$35 a whack? Glad this filter has the washable pre-filter, or I would be replacing it often.

Still, not sure why Kawasaki had to use a design that required an expensive filter. Why not a $6 WIX or FRAM?

 

[cp1969]

Appearance of a paper filter is probably the least reliable method to gauge whether it's reached the end of its life. You are not doing your engine or yourself any favors by changing the air filter before it needs it. A new filter passes the dirtiest air your engine will see--as the filter gets dirty, the air going into the engine gets progressively cleaner and cleaner.

 

[riches139]

Air doesn't get cleaner. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
As a particular area of the filter becomes dirty, the air flow will find a new route untill it becomes so restricted that the engine quits.
If that was the case, your oil would get cleaner and cleaner as you drove.

 

[cp1969]

Air DOES get cleaner. Dirt makes the effective pore size of the filter smaller, so smaller and smaller particles get filtered out.

All pleated paper filters do this.

If you run the air filter 'until the engine quits', you have gone far beyond the useful life of the filter. Typical values for filter replacement vary from 20 to 30 inches of water. This corresponds to a pressure differential between the dirty and clean sides of the filter of .72 to 1.08 psi. No engine is going to quit running at those restrictions, but it is time to change the filter.

 

[MajMac392]

Your filter sounds reasonable compared to the Air Filter for the 7234 Mitsubishi Cub. I don't remember exactly but it was in the $50 - 70 range depending on which dealer I called. Reasonable is probably not the right word, I consider gas over $2 a gallon 'reasonable' compared to what it was during Katrina! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif