5085M how to remove the fuel filters

[pclausen]

I'm finally getting around to replacing the fuel filters on my 5085M after 6.5 years of operation (mine is a MY 2012). I only have a little over 700 hours on it, so that's my excuse for not doing it earlier.

There's a short filter on the left side next to the oil fill neck and a long one on the right side next to the starter. According to the Maintenance Manual, I'm supposed to lift up the green ring and turn it counter-clockwise to release it, then drop it along with the filter. Well, there's no room to "lift" the rings, they move about a 1/16" left to right, but that's it. Is there a trick to release the rings to drop the filters?

Also, on the filter on the right side, there this add on bowl at the bottom with a wire connected to it. It looks like I need to transfer this to the new filter before installing, but in order to spin that add-on off, I need to disconnect the wire, which is not easy, since everything was painted green at the factory.

Just curious if anyone has gone through this before on a 5M series and can provide the tips. I have attached some pics of both fuel filters.

Thanks!

 

[sisupower]

Easiest way is get a large pair of channel locks and grab ring and turn little at a time. Use caution and you will be fine. Did this for everyone I serviced. Same with going back on. Yes you have to disconnect the sensor plug to get bowl off. Put filter in vise and spin off. Usually on pretty tight from factory. Clean it out good and install back on new filter. Super easy after you figure it out. Hope this helps

 

[pclausen]

Great thanks. So no need to lift it to unlock it like the manual states? Just apply brute force to undo it?

2nd question, to bleed the fuel system after replacing the filter, the manual states to push down on the black "hat" on top of each fuel filter after loosening the bleed screen. Well, that black "hat" is not a pump you can push down on like some other diesel engines I have. I'm thinking the 5M series has an electric fuel pump and all I need to do is to turn on the ignition, loosen the bleed screw(s) until fuel runs clear, no?

 

[sisupower]

That’s correct for both questions. Bleed through black plastic screw couple times and it will start. Some of them take a min to start so be patient. Just be careful with using the channel locks don’t squeeze to much.

 

[pclausen]

Thanks again. I'll give it a shot in the morning. Sounds like it should be pretty straight forward.

 

[pclausen]

Got it all done. Took a LONG time before it fired back up. Lots of fuel came out the bleeder on the left side (short filter), but nothing at all ever came out the bleeder on the right side (tall filter). Even with the engine running, opening up the right side bleeder never produced any fuel. Odd.

 

[sisupower]

Good deal! Yeah those tractors are so temperamental it’s irritating. I with they had the priming hand pump on them. One guy pump and another crank and they fire pretty quick!! Glad you got it handled!

 

[jd110]

You should not have loosened the bleed screw on the long filter with the glass bowl. That filter is on the suction side of the fuel pup and only sucks in air when it is loosened. If you only loosen the bleed screw on the short filter and then turn on the key until fuel comes out clear, engine should start quickly. The bleed screw on the long filter helps to drain glass bowl of water. It lets air in the top as fuel comes out the bottom.

 

[pclausen]

Ah thanks jd110, that makes sense now. Lesson learned. This job will go a lot quicker next time I have to do it, which I hope will be less than 7 years from now.

 

[sisupower]

Honestly it didn’t even click that you said you opened the bleed knob on water separator filter. Sorry about that I should’ve caught that. Heck I made that mistake when I first started working on Deere tractors 3 yrs ago. I apologize my friend that I didn’t tell you not to do that. Good catch jd110