50 hour service

[SCB]

Okay guys, I need an opinion. I've had my bx for about a week and a half and have about 33 hours on it. I puchased the necessary supplies for the 50 hour service when I got the tractor.

My question is this: I understand that the 50 hour hydraulic change is to get fresh oil in after the break in period. I took my backhoe off after using it for about an hour. I had other needs and the boxblade went on. Should I put the backhoe on again for a period of time for it to break in before my 50 hour service? How long do you think would be sufficient to run it?
Thanks in advance for the replies!
SCBrittain

 

[Bird]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Should I put the backhoe on again for a period of time for it to break in before my 50 hour service? )</font>

In my opinion, it won't make a bit of difference. I don't think there's anything to worry about as far as "break in" for the backhoe; just the engine, transmission, hydraulic pump, etc.; i.e., the tractor itself.

 

[SCB]

Thanks Bird,
If I understand you correctly, the Hydraulic cylinders of the backhoe aren't contaminating the oil. It is the gears and such of the tranny and pump that cause the need for oil change?
SCBrittain

 

[Bird]

Yep, you understand what I meant. Of course, that's my opinion, so if someone disagrees, feel free to do so.

 

[Deerlope]

SCB
Bird is right. But after you get all the oil's and filters changed take a hack saw or some other device and open the hyd filter and see if there are any metal shavings in it. There should not be and if the is contact your dealer.

 

[cckjone]

My Kubota dealer offers 50 hour service provided for the cost of materials only. There is no charge for service technicians time or travel. The approximate cost of the fluids and filters for the 50 hour service is $95.00. (BX2200) Isn't this standard practice for most Kubota dealers?

 

[Phrede]

Difference of opinion here.

If it moves it wears and everything is tight when it's new. Granted the cylinders on th BH or FEL will not contribute a lot to the total break in gunk in the fluid that the HST will.

Another reason, IMHO, for doing the first oil and filter change is to remove any contaminants left behind by the manufacturing process.

I would run the FEL and BH at least a couple of hours.

Again, just my opinion and I have always been pretty **** about machine maintenance and break in.

 

[_RaT_]

I suspect that if you really wanted to get into it and took an identical tractor and on one you did a full filter/fluid change at 50 hours and the other just had a filter change, serviced them identically for the next 2000 hours you would not be able to tell any discernable difference in wear between the two. I think of the 50 hour fluid change as either a insurance peace of mind or a quick way for the delaer to make a few extra bucks either on oil or the oil and labor. Either way, I'm eager to do it after the sacrifice and investment I have at stake. If anything at best, you are eliminating the build and manufacturing contaminents as well as small amount of wear and at least, buying a little peace of mind that everything on your near new tractor is fresh again. I agree with Bird about the hoe, forget about reattaching it to work out more metal. You have a filter that takes care of all of that. To think VW's bugs ran well using nothing short of a porch screen for a filter, that of course was providing you adjusted the valves to .006" every so often. Rat...

 

[Bird]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( take a hack saw or some other device and open the hyd filter and see if there are any metal shavings in it )</font>

I didn't go to the trouble of opening the filter, so I'm not sure whether there would have been any metal shavings or not, but I'm also not sure whether it matters on the first service. Both my Kubotas had a "strainer" in addition to the filter and the strainer was supposed to be cleaned and was expected to have some metal shavings in it the first time; maybe half a teaspoonful.

 

[Junkman]

Mine turned 50 in the middle of the winter and there was no way that I was going to service the hydro at 0 degrees. I changed the engine oil and filter, however, I have been sitting on the fence deciding if it is actually necessary to change the hydro oil at 50 or should I just wait till I get to 100. I have about 60 on it now. If the filters and screens are doing what they are supposed to be doing, then all contaminants are caught anyway before they can do any harm. What are the opinions out there and the reasoning behind the opinions.