4630 Alternator Fit a 4610?

[BondoBuilder]

I'm trying to help a neighbor of mine with his tractor. It's a 1987 4610.

He has eliminated all of the lights and gauges on the tractor, except for the fuel and temperature gauges. He is having a lot of trouble with the voltage regulator, claiming "they keep burning up." (He just replaced the voltage regulator last winter, and now the battery is not charging).

He wants to install an alternator that has an internal regulator. Before doing so, he asked me for advice.

Will one from a 4630 fit a 4610, or at least be close? Are there any major red flags to be aware of by doing this?

Thanks in advance!

 

[whodat526]

it will bolt on right but you will have to change the wiring harness. But if he keeps burning up voltage regulators he has some other problem

 

[whodat526]

also you might wont to pm rickb also and see if he has any sugestins

 

[RickB]

Eliminating the charge indicator lamp probably has had an adverse effect on the charging system performance. He really has two obvious choices. Repair or replace the original wiring including the dash lamps, or install a self-exciting one-wire alternator and do away with the regulator and all control wiring to the alternator.

 

[BondoBuilder]

Eliminating the charge indicator lamp probably has had an adverse effect on the charging system performance. He really has two obvious choices. Repair or replace the original wiring including the dash lamps, or install a self-exciting one-wire alternator and do away with the regulator and all control wiring to the alternator.

Is the alternator for the 4630 not a one-wire alternator? If not, can you recommend one that is, that might fit... like one from an s10??

Thanks for the help guys!!

 

[RickB]

No, Ford never used a self-exciting alternator. Go to your local auto parts house and ask for a Delco 10SI that has been converted to be a self-exciting one wire alternator. If they don't know what you are talking about, ask for a counter person with some experience, or walk out the door and go to the next store. Should be dirt-common and under $100 anywhere, maybe under $75.

 

[BondoBuilder]

I'm on it! Thanks RickB!

 

[BondoBuilder]

Alright. So I finally had time to get a one wire alternator and install it last night.

I ran a new 10 gauge wire to the battery, and grounded the alternator to the engine block.

I know you have to rev the engine to a high rpm before the alternator excites and starts charging. I revved the enigne to 2000 rpm's (which is really cranking that engine), but I am only getting 3.XX volts.

I know my Harbor Freight mulitmeter isn't top of the line, but I saw the same reading with my buddies Blue-Point mulitmeter.

What am I doing wrong??

 

[jinman]

Alright. So I finally had time to get a one wire alternator and install it last night.

I ran a new 10 gauge wire to the battery, and grounded the alternator to the engine block.

PHOTO DELETED>>>

I know you have to rev the engine to a high rpm before the alternator excites and starts charging. I revved the enigne to 2000 rpm's (which is really cranking that engine), but I am only getting 3.XX volts.

PHOTO DELETED>>>

I know my Harbor Freight mulitmeter isn't top of the line, but I saw the same reading with my buddies Blue-Point mulitmeter.

What am I doing wrong??

Is your battery completely discharged? If your battery is fully charged, you should read 12+ volts at that alternator (battery volts). If your battery is that dead that you only read 3.47 volts, you should surely charge it or get another battery. The 3.47 vdc is telling me there is something wrong with your wiring or you have a defunct battery. I would disconnect the alternator and read voltage right at the output terminal with nothing attached. Don't let it run too long that way, but that should be a quick check.

 

[Soundguy]

take a jumper wire and jump from the charge stud to the #2 spade lug under that rubber plug.

now take another jumper , a short test one, and run from charge lug to the #1 spade terminal... If that makes her charge at low rpms, then she will run like a 3 wire, and should be run as such.

run a wire from the ignition switch to that #1 so that it is hot with the key on. if this modle uses a key on / off fuel kill, you may need to put a diode in line or a 194 lamp element.

if you use a diode.. go with one that is at least 1a/50piv.. though 2-3a and 200piv is better.. radio shack part number 276-1661 or 276-1141, or generically, a diode equal to a 1N5408.

the diodes will have a stripe on one end.. place that stripe so that it is facing the alternator #1 terminal.. I'd add some strain relief too.

soundguy