4 spool rear remote install on B3300SU

[CDN Farm Boy]

When I bought my tractor, I knew I wanted rear remotes. In fact, I knew I wanted a bunch of them. The Kubota kit was astronomical in price for just one valve, never mind their 2 or 3 spool options. I wanted minimum of 3, 4 was better. Dealer was a bit confused when I wanted the blower with the tractor purchase with the hyd rotation but no way of turning it. They actually delivered the blower with the manual crank and had to send the service guy out to install the hyd motor. He also was confused how I was going to operate it. Parts and Service desk was nice enough to email me the factory remote install manual for reference. Once I saw the first pic of how they mount the valve, am I ever glad I didn't get it. It mounts horizontal on the outside of the ROPS! By the time you get the mounting plate and the 3 spool option, it sticks out further than the tires.

Here's how I did mine, with reference to the factory manual and input from JJ and MtnViewRanch (thanks guys):

Valve from Surplus Center, I used this one https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7864&catname=hydraulic for it's compact size.
Fittings from Discount Hydraulic Hose
Local made hoses at Princess Auto



This takes up less than 3" of room on the inside. I'm 6'2, 235 lbs and fit no problem even bundled up doing snow or running the BH. I already had the lights installed and made the valve mount work with them, keeping things up as high as I could so that there was room under the levers for my arm. The hole spacing on the valve body was just a little bit narrower than the ROPS so I ground the side off the 2 lower mounting bolts to give clearance, with the sole purpose of keeping the mount as compact as possible.



Top 2 valves have 1/4" QDs, the 3rd has 3/8" for the BH and I plan to run the bottom spool up to the front which are just capped for now. QD plate was mounted on the lower section of the ROPS. It was just a mock-up/test run and I ended up re-drilling a couple of the holes. One of these days I'll get around to making a new mounting plate for the QDs, complete with paint.



No cutting of any of the factory components of the PB loop was done that if for any reason I wanted to return to stock everything is unboltable (is that even a word?) and all the stock parts are still there.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

More and closer pics to follow when I get the camera rather than using my phone.

 

[sikmusicfreak8]

Hope you*are still on this board. So I am planning on*installing a double or triple spool on my tractor. I also have a back hoe. So basically when I am needing my BH, I unplug the loop to the*3 point, and plug the two hoses into my backhoe. When*installing remotes now,*how*would I feed them, and then the backhoe or*3 point? *Hope this makes sense, just wondering how my circuit would look...

Would I have*my*2 or*3 sets of remotes, plus*a set of disconnects for the power beyond coming from my new spool valve that I would either loop the 3 point or connect to the backhoe?

Thanks

 

[Gordon Gould]

Nice job on that Farm Boy :thumbsup:

gg

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

I'd actually forgotten about this thread.

Thanks Gordon.

Jason, there are 2 common ways of plumbing remotes and a BH. The way most BH are run on these small tractors is with the Power Beyond loop that runs from the loader valve to the 3pt as most remote setups are aftermarket or DIY. There are lots of drawings showing the different ways but I'll try to type it out for you.

Conventional BH connected to the PB loop:
Loader PB port goes to the IN port on the BH valve
BH OUT port goes to the 3pt.
Work ports of the BH valve go to the various cyl of the BH.

Disconnect the BH:
Loader PB port to the 3pt valve (male & female QDs that connect the BH are hooked together)

The way I did my setup:
Loader PB port feeds the IN of the new remote valve
PB port of the remote valve feeds the 3pt
OUT of the remote valve goes back to tank.
When I connect my BH, I simply plug into one of my sets of remotes and put the control lever in the detent position.
This allows me to connect/disconnect my BH without turning off the tractor to split the original PB loop. It also allows me to use other valves of the same stack to power my hyd thumb (so I actually have 4 hoses to connect when mounting my BH rather than 2) and my front grapple/loader hyd QA all powered off the same 4 spool valve.

The other way is to plumb the remote valve exactly as the BH valve is originally and you have to move the PB loop hoses depending on if you want to use the remotes or the BH.

3 1/2 years later, I'm still really happy with my setup

 

[project_X]

Would it be possible to email the install manual for the factory rear Remote, jf I pm'd my email address?

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Send me your email and I'll see if I can still find it.

 

[jonsstihl]

hadn't though of going vertical with the valves. I mounted mine on a plate across the back but I like your idea for keeping things tucked in tight to the rops

 

[jonsstihl]

I just realized your quick connects are on a separate plate down lower. that is a lot of hoses. That must have cost you quite a bit. When I did mine, the hoses were the most expensive part. and I had my quick connects on the valve

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

It actually wasn't too bad for overall cost. I don't remember the exact cost but he whole setup cost me less than 1 spool from the dealer. I waited until the hoses/fittings were on sale at Princess Auto which helped quite a bit -- I think I got them 40% off. 11 hoses total. The in/out/PB and 1 pair for the Backhoe are 3/8" and the rest are 1/4" including the one pair run up to the loader.

The way you did your's with the QDs right on the valve body sure saves a bunch as long as you don't mind the extra length on the implement hoses

 

[jonsstihl]

It was a while ago but I think the hoses cost me 400 and all the rest of the fittings and valve cost 400$. I had them made at a local shop so they would be just the right length.

I like the quick connects on the valve but the middle one is hard to connect because it is hard to get a grip on the collar since the qd's are so close together. If I was doing it again I would have splurged and got the more expensive qd's that you just push in and they snap in.

 

[FredH]

I really like the set up You came up with . I can relate to the cost of the Factory remote . Just 1 costs something like $1000 for my new holland . The only thing I will not change on mine though is how My back hoe connects . The return is at the back , under the seat and from the pump is a longer line that I connect to a line that gets disconnected from the pump area . When that front line is connected to the B.H. feed , it disables the 3 point system . Although I would know Not to move 3 point lever , others who may use the tractor , are not that reliable :thumbsup: . I would use the remotes like that for a T-N-T set up , thus likely would only need a 2 spool ??? Undecided there ? maybe also could have a few Hydraulic 3 point attachments ??

Anyway , Really Nice work and Thanks for sharing :thumbsup:

Fred H.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Thanks for the compliment Fred.

I understand the desire to disable the 3pt when the BH is mounted, especially depending on other users and how much of the 3pt linkages are still there. With mine, there are only the 2 lift arms remaining and other than being a nuisance if they are sticking up too high, don't appear that they would bind anywhere. So far in 5 yrs, I'm the only one to have run the BH (other than the very first bucket full -- my wife did that as she was the one that insisted we get the BH with the tractor) In a way my 3pt is disabled when the BH is active as it runs off the PB port of the remote valve. Anything fed from the work ports of the remote valve will have priority over the PB port so with the lever in the dedent there isn't enough flow to do anything with the 3pt.

As for the number of spools, I wound't have any less than 3. It's WAY cheaper to have an extra one at the start for future when you are at it than to try to add it later. I use all 3 with my snow blower: Hyd top link, chute rotation and deflector. I do not have tilt and do not have any plans of adding it. I am adding a cyl to my rear blade this summer.

To me, if you want TnT, you need to have minimum of 3 spools. 2 for the TnT and one for other uses (like angling a rear blade)