3rd function for LS XG3140

[polemidis]

I am researching the forum for options 3rd function and while I found some very resourceful threads, I am still confused. My question is simple. What are my options for a 3rd function (not diverter or remotes) for a grapple that I am building for my tractor? I contacted my dealer and his LS kit costs $799. I believe that it is awful lot of money (isn't?) for 4ft of hydraylic hose a few couplers, a joystick addon and a valve and a bracket.

Really what are my DIY options? This picture is of my valve. Also can someone tell me which one is the PB port? Or what are the other ports in my valve? I recognize the 4 obvious ports for the FEL, and the 2 ones that go to the joystick , one comes from the front of the tractor( iguess this one comes from the pump), and 2 go at the back of the tractor



Sorry for the stupid questions.
Is there a valve that I can buy and can add on for the 3rd function? Any help that will make me realize who this valve works is appreciated. And if you think that $799 for a 3rd is not much, let me know so I can just order it from the dealer and get over it. Thank you!

 

[lostcreekranch]

No, you won’t save much money it you want a true 3rd function. I’ve got the WR Long 3rd function kit on both New Holland TL100A and LS XR4155 HC. I had the same WR Long kit on previous LS XR4046HC as well. These kits are worth every penny you pay.

I don’t have a clue about “LS kits”?

 

[polemidis]

I don’t have a clue about “LS kits”?

I guess this one maybe LS 'XR' Series XR3037,XR4040,XR4046,XR4140,XR4145,XR4150..... Third Function Kit

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I guess this one maybe LS 'XR' Series XR3037,XR4040,XR4046,XR4140,XR4145,XR4150..... Third Function Kit

Based on the type of control grip it has, I would guess that all it is, is a WR Long 3rd function kit.

This can be had for less $$$ from other sources, or I guess your dealer is selling it for the $799? That's seems to be about the going price for these types of valve systems.

 

[polemidis]

Based on the type of control grip it has, I would guess that all it is, is a WR Long 3rd function kit.

This can be had for less $$$ from other sources, or I guess your dealer is selling it for the $799? That's seems to be about the going price for these types of valve systems.

I think that my dealer gets a cut in the price.

Why not go with this valve, so with sub plate and the Hirschmann Connectors the cost will be $200. Add a hand grip switch over my existing joystick and I am at quarter the cost of the WR long valve? What I am missing here?

 

[K5lwq]

I am in the process of adding third function to my Kioti 2554 and will have $1000 or more by the time I am done. Mainly because I wanted a mechanical valve and I am running SS hard lines for the grapple. I also had to buy a tubing bender as well as replacing some hoses that were less than usable. I don't have a cable joystick like yours, but if I did, I would go with the WR valve kit without a second thought. It will by far be your simplest solution. I am sure you will be happy with that setup. :thumbsup:

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I think that my dealer gets a cut in the price.

Why not go with this valve, so with sub plate and the Hirschmann Connectors the cost will be $200. Add a hand grip switch over my existing joystick and I am at quarter the cost of the WR long valve? What I am missing here?

You can cut costs a lot of ways, if you want to actually do it apples to apples, I really doubt that you can do it for much less than $500. Yes people do it for less shopping around and getting sell offs of left overs or just unused items, but not to simply go to the different suppliers and get what they need when they need it.

You have not added in an equivalent control grip, any hoses and all the associated fittings and couplers. I use to sell these kits for $700, I made less than $100 and I can guarantee you that not to many people buy for less money than I was when they are getting single items at a time.

If you simply enjoy the search and getting the absolute best cost there is and figuring out everything that you need along the way , go for it and enjoy the process. If you're short on time and need to get things done, then my suggestion is to purchase the complete kit and get to work.

Just my :2cents:, good luck.

 

[polemidis]

You can cut costs a lot of ways, if you want to actually do it apples to apples, I really doubt that you can do it for much less than $500. Yes people do it for less shopping around and getting sell offs of left overs or just unused items, but not to simply go to the different suppliers and get what they need when they need it.

You have not added in an equivalent control grip, any hoses and all the associated fittings and couplers. I use to sell these kits for $700, I made less than $100 and I can guarantee you that not to many people buy for less money than I was when they are getting single items at a time.

If you simply enjoy the search and getting the absolute best cost there is and figuring out everything that you need along the way , go for it and enjoy the process. If you're short on time and need to get things done, then my suggestion is to purchase the complete kit and get to work.

Just my :2cents:, good luck.

Thank you for your input! I have enough time to research any options. My problem is that I am just learning and I do not understand much of the terminology. So it looks like surplus center does not have any solenoid valve with PB output (which I need in order to feed any future remotes right?)

Another option will be to replace my FEL valve with a 3spool valve that has a PB for the remotes, am I right?. And that option also looks temping. since I will not need any switches, and a lever is easier to control than just a switch.

(The funny thing is that 2 days ago I didn't know what the OC, PB even meant!) hahah

 

[N2DFire]

Thank you for your input! I have enough time to research any options. My problem is that I am just learning and I do not understand much of the terminology. So it looks like surplus center does not have any solenoid valve with PB output (which I need in order to feed any future remotes right?)

Another option will be to replace my FEL valve with a 3spool valve that has a PB for the remotes, am I right?. And that option also looks temping. since I will not need any switches, and a lever is easier to control than just a switch.

(The funny thing is that 2 days ago I didn't know what the OC, PB even meant!) hahah

Replacing your existing valve would actually be a pretty major undertaking. Your valve is cable operated, don't think there is a 3 spool cable operated valve (what would the 3rd cable be operated by?) So you'd probably have to end up creating mechanical linkages not to mention moving the location of the valve and re-routing hoses.

As for Power Beyond - to understand better you need to understand the basic path the hydraulic fluid makes in your tractor. This is typical & oversimplified so yours may differ slightly somewhere but it will get you in the game (so to speak)

Tank -> Pump -> Power Steering (if not fed from a separate pump/output) -> Loader Valve (Lift/Lower function then Dump/Curl function then out the Power Beyond Port) -> Rear Remotes (SCV's) if present -> 3 Point Lift -> back to the Tank

This is how things would flow in an open center system when NOTHING is activated. Any time you activate a valve (Loader, 3pt lift, or rear remotes) the flow is diverted from that path into the cylinder(s) you are operating.

Your 3rd function solenoid would go in this loop between the loader valve and the 3pt (or rear remotes). The Solenoid sub-plate will not have a separate "power beyond" port but rather an IN (or P/Pressure port), OUT (T/Tank port), and two work ports A & B.

Why not go with this valve, so with sub plate and the Hirschmann Connectors the cost will be $200. Add a hand grip switch over my existing joystick and I am at quarter the cost of the WR long valve? What I am missing here?

Just off the top of my head . .
2 long hoses from the valve to the front of the loader
2 shorter hoses to put the valve in series of your power beyond line
various couplers
various fittings
mounting plates that you will have to fabricate yourself or have made
Misc wiring to get power to your solenoid along with connecting the switch on the grip to the solenoid


Having been down the Do-It-Yourself route I can honestly say you probably *could* come out a little cheaper however there will ALWAYS be something you forgot, overlooked, mis-measured, etc that will make you have to re-do something. That's the extra value from a pre-made kit. The headaches, gotchas, and "learning curve" of design on the fly has been removed from the equation.

Here is the thread I did on my build - thanks to photobucket the pictures no longer work so I created a Rev 2 version and put it into a PDF
www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/358086-kioti-ck-35-3rd-function.html

You can read thru the thread to see the discussion & feedback and my Rev 2 PDF document is linked on the last page of the thread.

FWIW - If I had it to do over knowing what I know now; I'd still build my own because there are things I didn't like about the WR Long kit & things I did that aren't included in the kit. Not to mention I now know a LOT more about how my hydraulic system works.

I am by NO MEANS an expert on the subject but I would suggest you to read thru the PDF document and see all the places I "messed up" and decide if this is a road you really want to go down. I'm not trying to talk you out of it, I just want to make sure you really understand what you're in for.

Best of luck whatever you decide.

 

[polemidis]

Steve, fantastic post! I LOVE that you are mention the part numbers and the links to the materials. I will do a few more reads of your thread as it has more information than I can absorb at once!!

Now, the quick question (my apologies if that is answered somewhere I missed), is that I not fully understand the flow around the remotes. So after the FEL valve at the PB, will go the 3rd function valve which will be solenoid operated. This valve has not PB port so it cannot stand any pressure after that point, so it should be the last valve correct?
So how the remotes are connected? (I haven't any right now but I definitely need them) between the FEL and the 3rd funtion solenoid valve? That means that the valve that controls the remotes is PB capable right? So for my tractor it should something like this which I assume will not be attached to (or next to) FEL valve but at a remote location. Then the remotes' valve PB port has to go to the input of the 3rd funcion valve, while the tank ports from both valves have to go to the tank.
Is the above correct?