3pt wood splitter - Purging

wakeshredder · Jan 26, 2019

Hey all, got a question. I picked up a 3pt splitter, and I want to use it with my Massey GC1720. I plan on using the backhoe connections, although I'm not sure if that would render my 3pt limp while connected? Also, since I have no real way of knowing what machine(s) the splitter has been used on, I'd like to purge the hydraulics. I just don't want to circulate whatever fluid it has in it into my brand new machine! Can anyone offer guidance on how I could go about that? Attaching pic of the splitter.

RNeumann · Jan 26, 2019

With the ram closed their isn’t much fluid in it. But if you were worried you could pull the hoses and drain them out. I assume their is a valve of some sort that probably has a cup or two of fluid too. With the hoses off that should drain.
I have no clue on how the BH is plumbed so I’m no help there. Hope the splitter works for your needs.

Dave M7040 · Jan 27, 2019

To clean the cylinder out, since it is a double acting cylinder, you need to drain both sides by moving ram back and forth.

Add some of the new fluid into ports and then drain to dilute last bit of original fluid.

The use of plumbing fittings on a hydraulic system is a serious mistake. Consider a small investment for the hydraulic fittings.

Dave M7040

4570Man · Jan 27, 2019

Breaking down the cylinder and cleaning would be the only way to get it all out. You can pull the ends off the hoses and blow in compressed air to cycle the cylinder both directions a couple times and that will get most of the oil out. An empty 5 gallon oil pail with a lid works good to stick the hose down in to catch most of the oil that’s going to spray out. If you had the cylinder upside down while doing the described method would result in more complete draining.

4570Man · Jan 27, 2019

And it looks like they have black pipe plumbing fittings in the hydraulic system. Those aren’t rated for hydraulic pressure and you should fix that while you’re at it. Edit some of those appear to be galvanized plumbing fittings which are even worse. They’re still not rated for the pressure and according to my brief research can result in zinc flaking off in the system.

wakeshredder · Jan 31, 2019

I have to agree, the plumbing fittings are no good. I'll replace those and all the lines. I'll purge with air and dilute with clean fluid what's left in the cylinder. I sill need to see how to connect it back to my GC1720 via the backhoe lines. I am also still curious about if it renders the 3 pt limp? Seems like it would based on the fact that they are now with the backhoe attached.

Thanks again for any input.

4570Man · Jan 31, 2019

I couldn’t find the hydraulic specs on your tractor but I’m guessing it’s under 5 gpm. I’d buy a Honda motor and a 2 stage pump and convert it to a self contained unit. I see Honda motor pressure washers with frozen pumps all the time for $50 if you don’t want to spend $300 for a motor.

ericm979 · Feb 1, 2019

Tractordata says it's 4.8 gpm.

If I did the math right, if it's a 4" cylinder, it'll take 12 seconds to move 18", so a 24 second cycle time if you restrict the travel to enough to split a 16" round with enough extra to make it easy to get it in. That's slow.

4570Man · Feb 1, 2019

ericm979 said:
Tractordata says it's 4.8 gpm.

If I did the math right, if it's a 4" cylinder, it'll take 12 seconds to move 18", so a 24 second cycle time if you restrict the travel to enough to split a 16" round with enough extra to make it easy to get it in. That's slow.

Stopping the cylinder at the right spot without permanently limiting it is hard to do. If you’re not using an auto return valve then you’re wasting more time. I didn’t check your math on the cylinder but you forgot to consider the volume displaced by the rod will make it return quicker. Also consider that the rated flow is at pto rated speed and even getting the whole volume out the rear remotes probably won’t happen.