Tiller 3PH tiller opinions

r0GuE · Jul 22, 2001

BX2200 Kubota
Tiller Brands under consideration are:
Landpride,Woods,Befco or Kubotas
size ranges from 37" Kubota to about 42" for the others
My main question is, what is the best drive protection, sheer pins or clutchs. I don't know enough to ask alot of question about tillers but I hope you will share any details you all might know. This is the only othert implement I intend to get (for now,... he he he, don't tell my wife I giggled!)
I have a 60" deck and a FEL on the way!
Thanks all!

Rogue

DFB · Jul 22, 2001

Rogue,

The question really should be what drive protection is best for you. Both styles will protect.

What are the soil conditions like you'll be working in? I have a slip clutch for my tiller and its both what I want and need. For me just about every revolution of the tines seems to turn up a stone. First time out with my new tiller I slipped the clutch at least 4 times. Twice I had get off the tractor to remove the stone that had gotten wedged in there. And this was in a spot that had been previously tilled too! Now if that was shear pin, it possibly would have (should of ?) broke everytime and necesitated a R&R out in the garden. Now of course this was up in VT. Rocks seem to be an annual crop. /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

On the other hand at camp the soil there is nothing but sand and clay. Can't say I couldn't find a stone (found few with my rotary cutter) but a shear pin setup would certainly be more than satisfactory under those conditions. There is also some obligatory annual maintainence involved with using a slip clutch. Not an issue when using shear pins.

Hope this helps some.

DFB

Wheeldog · Jul 22, 2001

I have had good luck with my 50" LandPride. My dealer explained to me that he usually sells them with slip clutches but that I could opt for the shear pin instead if I'd like. Like DFB had pointed out, you can best answer the question based on your soil conditions. If you've ever put in beds for planting, or sunk a few fence posts in the ground, you should have a good idea of how rocky your soil is. I'd get the shear pin if I thought I would have to replace it only occasionally. We've got plenty of rocks here (and a big rockpile in back now too, courtesy my FEL/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif), so the slip clutch seemed like the way to go.

Rob

john_bud · Jul 22, 2001

Rogue,

I don't know if you plan on using your tiller "Hard" or not, but some of the folks on this board that do run hard have suggested using BOTH a slip clutch AND a shear bolt. When a slip clutch works properly, it is almost not noticed, as opposed to a shear bolt! BUT, if a slip clutch is on equipment infrequently used and it has rusted up a bit, it can fail. Failure means that it fails to slip when a large shock load is applied. So, all of the force is transmitted to the PTO and driveline of the tractor. Crash bang boom! {flutter flutter flutter} That's the sound of money flittering out of your wallet to get the tractor fixed.

I doubt that it (crash bang boom) happens all that often, but if you do get a clutch, you have to follow the maintenance schedule closely.

Let us know what brand you get and why. All the ones you listed are well respected.

John Bud

looch · Jul 22, 2001

I own an older Kubota brand tiller. There's a shear pin on the gear box input shaft, but the final drive on this unit is a belt. I really like it, I adjust the belt tension for the job I'm doing - loose for previously tilled soil and tight for breaking sod. Don't they make them like that anymore? Too bad if they don't, belts are a dime a dozen.

art · Jul 23, 2001

The type of land you have and the stone's that are laying in wait is the most critical thing with the type of drive. Don't be fooled that the shear pin in a none stone infested field doesn't require maintance. The shear bolt does need to be removed from time to time or that will also rust up and not shear when needed.

TerryinMD · Jul 23, 2001

I have a JD4100 with LandPride RTA 1558 (58") tiller with the slip clutch. I have had no problems with mine. My soil ranges from 24" topsoil to clay in our garden area. Since I live in Western Maryland along the Potomac River, we have an abundance of river stone and limestone rocks throughout the soil. I have hit some good sized rocks and the tiller just kept on going. My only issue with the tiller is the depth of till. Wish it went a little deeper.

r0GuE · Jul 23, 2001

Just as confused as always. Hmmm...
I love my tractor and I don't want to damage it at all no matter what the maintenance on the tiller. My yard looks at first glance to be solid stone but I think it must just be soil compacted by a million years of neglect (previous owners).
Soo, what models have both the clutch and the shear pin. Also, I have had some people tell me that I should buy all implements based on weight (as a rule of thumb). I.E. the heavier it is, the better the quality probably is for a given size and cost implement.
Any thoughts?
Thanks all.

Rogue

looch · Jul 23, 2001

Rogue, just found a source for belt drive tillers while searching for something else http://www.nwtiller.com. Not much information on the web site, though. (and they look pricey)