3520 hydralic for wood splitter

[Policy Peddler]

I have a jd 3520 with cab, loader and 3rd function.
Is there somewhere I can put fittings on the tractor, hook hydraulic lines to them and run to the rear of the tractor to hook to the control on a wood splitter?
Thank you

 

[beenthere]

You are saying you have the 3rd SCV function, but no couplings to hook to? Can you tell us more about the 3rd function?

Or is it like my 4300, that had the 3rd valve in the valve bank, but I had to add the lines and couplers?

Or are you looking to tie into the power beyond lines for the wood splitter that has its own hyd. valve?

 

[Policy Peddler]

The 3rd set of couplings has a electric valve behind the cab that has a rocker switch on the console next to yourgent arm. Then a small thumb rocker switch in the loader joy stick handle to activate it one way or the other. So there is no way to keep it flowing constantly. I have been operating the splitter by unplugging the tilt on the loader. used pipe fittings to make a U, male coupling one end female the other to redirect the coupler from facing forward, to facing rear. then run hoses under cab to rear of tractor. Couple hoses to splitter. Use a tarp strap to pull the loader joy stick side ways to activate the valve for oil to the splitter.
After the oil goes through the ⅜ line, loader valve, ⅜ line, ⅜ coupling, around the U, another coupling, 6-8 ft ⅜ hose to back of tractor, another coupling then 8 ft of ½ inch hose to the splitter there is a significant amount of restriction causing the splitter ram to run slow.

Specs say 3520 hydralic flow is 13.5 GPM.
I borrowed a 2755, spec on its flow is 11.2 GPM yet the 2755 runs the ram significantly faster.

I am looking for some where I can run short hoses from to rear of cab with live hydralic that I can control with the valve on the splitter.

 

[kennyd]

Ideally, you would want to add the "Power Beyond" option to your machine. It supplies a constant flow of hydraulic oil to the rear of the machine anytime it's running. It's also used to feed a backhoe.

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/3576/referrer/navigation/pgId/1780667

This link has a link to the instructions:

John Deere Hyd. Quick-Connect Coupler - LVB26069

www.greenpartstore.com

 

[kennyd]

Specs say 3520 hydralic flow is 13.5 GPM.

That is the 'marketing' number.
There are two pumps, one is dedicated to the steering (about 5 GPM) and cannot be counted as the total usable flow. The 'implement' pump is about 8.6 GPM, that is what you have to work with for your splitter.

 

[oldtimer 66]

Just as a note the 8.6 gal/min is at engine PTO speed.

 

[rScotty]

The 3rd set of couplings has a electric valve behind the cab that has a rocker switch on the console next to yourgent arm. Then a small thumb rocker switch in the loader joy stick handle to activate it one way or the other. So there is no way to keep it flowing constantly. I have been operating the splitter by unplugging the tilt on the loader. used pipe fittings to make a U, male coupling one end female the other to redirect the coupler from facing forward, to facing rear. then run hoses under cab to rear of tractor. Couple hoses to splitter. Use a tarp strap to pull the loader joy stick side ways to activate the valve for oil to the splitter.
After the oil goes through the ⅜ line, loader valve, ⅜ line, ⅜ coupling, around the U, another coupling, 6-8 ft ⅜ hose to back of tractor, another coupling then 8 ft of ½ inch hose to the splitter there is a significant amount of restriction causing the splitter ram to run slow.

Specs say 3520 hydralic flow is 13.5 GPM.
I borrowed a 2755, spec on its flow is 11.2 GPM yet the 2755 runs the ram significantly faster.

I am looking for some where I can run short hoses from to rear of cab with live hydralic that I can control with the valve on the splitter.

If I was adding rear remotes I'd look at the JD power beyond kit instructions to see where they tap into the system. Then do the same with after market parts. Or just buy the kit. My guess on aftermarket parts is you are only going to save half, and the JD kit is surprisingly inexpensive (fo JD).

Some more things to think about..... If you used regular plumbing fittings to make the U, the problem is that plumbing fittings are only good to a few hundred psi. - usually 300 to 600 psi. Your hydraulic system probably runs at least 2000 psi. You can buy the similar fittings to make a U - but rated to withstand hydraulic pressures at a hydraulic fitting store, or online at places like surpluscenter.com. Or even from Amazon.

Watch the temperature of the hydraulic fluid when fluid is restricted what you get is a lot of heat - and heat shortens the life of the fluid. That matters more if you have a HST transmisson. Keep the oil cooler clean and consider upgrading the cooler with a fan.

good luck,
rScotty

 

[Bavarian]

3/8" lines and fittings are usually rated for 6gpm. You could possibly gain some speed if you upgrade to 1/2".

 

[oldtimer 66]

I built my own splitter and used the tractor hydraulics to power the splitter as new. The tractor hydraulic pump is a single stage gear pump. It has no step down as in a 2 stage pump. When the wedge initially splits/ breaks the grain of the wood, there is a shock load/ spike to the hydraulic system because of the single stage pump. This shock load is hard on the hydraulic system/ pump/ connection/ gear driven thru the engine. I could see that this would at a later date cause problems with the tractor hydraulic pump and the engine gear train. So I decided to install a PTO pump. My tractor was rated at 17.1 GPM with 12.0 available for the splitter now this is all at PTO speed. I never ran the tractor over 1800 RPM so my 12 GPM was more like 7 GPM. It worked but I wanted to install a PTO pump to minimize possible engine problems. I installed a Prince PTO pump rated at 21 GPM. With that i needed a hydraulic tank and I also changed out the 4" hydraulic cylinder for a 5" hydraulic cylinder. I still only run at 1800 engine RPM which interpolates to about 15 GPM but the cycle time is actually faster with the larger 5" hydraulic cylinder. If I was ever to start fresh with new design it would be using a PTO pump. Here is a link for PTO pump details. It also has line sizing for different GPM's. https://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/pumps/PtoManual.pdf. Later.

 

[Bavarian]

I built my own splitter and used the tractor hydraulics to power the splitter as new. The tractor hydraulic pump is a single stage gear pump. It has no step down as in a 2 stage pump. When the wedge initially splits/ breaks the grain of the wood, there is a shock load/ spike to the hydraulic system because of the single stage pump. This shock load is hard on the hydraulic system/ pump/ connection/ gear driven thru the engine. I could see that this would at a later date cause problems with the tractor hydraulic pump and the engine gear train. So I decided to install a PTO pump. My tractor was rated at 17.1 GPM with 12.0 available for the splitter now this is all at PTO speed. I never ran the tractor over 1800 RPM so my 12 GPM was more like 7 GPM. It worked but I wanted to install a PTO pump to minimize possible engine problems. I installed a Prince PTO pump rated at 21 GPM. With that i needed a hydraulic tank and I also changed out the 4" hydraulic cylinder for a 5" hydraulic cylinder. I still only run at 1800 engine RPM which interpolates to about 15 GPM but the cycle time is actually faster with the larger 5" hydraulic cylinder. If I was ever to start fresh with new design it would be using a PTO pump. Here is a link for PTO pump details. It also has line sizing for different GPM's. https://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/pumps/PtoManual.pdf. Later.

I don't like the idea of putting the pump directly on the Pto stub. It puts a lot sideload on it.
I know, there is a lots of farm machinery out there that do the same. They also keep on rebuilding Pro output shafts, bearings and seals.
You've chosen the perfect path on sizing the pump. Just be careful if someone operates it and isn't aware of the Rpm settings.