I saw posts about the leaking drain tube fittings, and I checked that a long time ago. It's definitely not coming from there. It's coming from much higher up on the engine, somewhere behind all those darned black metal covers.
Oil & Fuel 3165 huge oil leak
- Thread starter gary_g5
- Start date
I saw posts about the leaking drain tube fittings, and I checked that a long time ago. It's definitely not coming from there. It's coming from much higher up on the engine, somewhere behind all those darned black metal covers.
Sorry, I didn't mean fan. It was in the area in front of the screen for the flywheel.
highboy1975
Silver Member
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2009
- Messages
- 204
the shrouds arent terribly difficult to remove, but they do fit back on a certain way. i think my vanguard only has 3 or 4 screws holding all the ones on the front of the motor on. im wandering if this could be a valve cover gasket issue.
From the description you provided it appears the crankshaft seal on the rear of the engine (part of engine closest to you when setting on seat) has failed. The seal is under the flywheel and the fan on the flywheel is blowing the oil forwards. The drive shaft is attached to the flywheel by four bolts. The driveshaft will have to be disconnected and the engine loosened and moved foreward, the flywheel removed and then the seal can be removed.
Go here and enter your model number and then select "Drive Shaft and Engine Connection" for a visual on whats involved.
Parts and Diagrams for Cub Cadet 3165 Tractor
You could damage the coils if you continue to operate.
Go here and enter your model number and then select "Drive Shaft and Engine Connection" for a visual on whats involved.
Parts and Diagrams for Cub Cadet 3165 Tractor
You could damage the coils if you continue to operate.
That sounds like what it could be. I got my hands on a service manual for my engine, and except for having the right size socket for removing the flywheel, I think I might be able to do the rest. Assuming I can manage to remove the flywheel, can I simply change the seal from there, or do I have to remove the entire crankcase cover to replace the seal? Should I just give up and take it to a repair shop?
After removing the hood and side panels,disconnecting the drive shaft and engine mounting bolts to the frame cradle slide the engine forward. Then remove the air containment sheet metal, and the debris screen from the flywheel. If you can get the flywheel off the seal can then easily be removed. Drill a small hole in the seal, (Careful not to deep, just through the metal) screw a drywall screw in a couple of turns and then use a pair of vice grip plyers to grab the drywall screw and remove the seal. Before removal notice how deep the old seal is seated so you can re-seat the new seal to the approximate location. Also be careful when removing the four screws that hold the drive shaft. A thin metal shim is usually located between the driveshaft and the flywheel, don't lose or leave the shim out when putting it back together. Also be careful with the flywheel removal, do not strike the outside edge of the flywheel with a hammer. Most flywheel have cermanic disk on the inside of them. I would recommend the use of a puller to remove the flywheel. If you do not have one purchase a cheap one at Habor Freight or rent one from Auto Zone. Use Brake Clean to clean the oil and grease off the flywheel prior to re-installing. Also clean the any oil or grease from the coils and rear of the engine. Also be sure and compare the old seal to the new seal. Parts houses have been known to provide the wrong seal. It make a job more fun when you have too do it twice.
Addendum:
I forgot be careful with the fan fins on the flywheel they break easily. If you do not have a impact wrench, fabricate a flywheel holder out of an old leather belt to hold the flywheel while loosening and tightening the large nut. Sticking a screw driver or other flat metal object in the fins to hold it is not a good idea.
After a few evenings in a 35 degree garage, I finally managed to remove the engine. A friend fabricated a flywheel puller for me, so now the flywheel is off. I'll try to replace the oil seal tomorrow. I also found that the alternator coils are completely covered with oil and grease and gunk. The last couple times I ran the tractor (before I realized I had a major leak) the battery charge indicator on the dash would light up after while. I thought maybe my battery was getting old, but even after charging it overnight, the charge indicator would still light up. So perhaps the coils are damaged, or was everything just too gunk-covered to work properly? Do I have any chance of cleaning the coils properly, or should I replace it? Looks like a new alternator would cost me around $40. What's the best way to clean all this crud off the engine?
Attachments
In case anyone comes across this thread in the future, I'll add this little update. I managed to get the engine clean, but the stator never really got clean enough, and some of the plastic on it was broken and discolored, possibly from when it overheated last summer. So to save me from having to disassemble the engine again later, I went ahead and replaced the stator. The old oil seal basically fell out with just a slight tug with a sharp hooked micro tool, so that was definitely my problem. The new seal went in nice and snug. I reassembled the engine, added oil, started it up and it runs like new, with no leaks. Thanks for all the advice guys. I was able to do the whole thing for less than $50.
JTKub
Veteran Member
Gator, excellent info.. and Gary, AWESOME work!! Talk about tearing your tractor down to the bare bones. I'm glad to see you finally found the cause and fix.
Joel
Joel