3 pt round bale mover

   / 3 pt round bale mover #1  

WTA

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Aug 31, 2007
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I'm almost done making a 3 point round bale spear setup for the back of my tractor and I had one question.

1 spear or two? Is there any benefit two having 2 of them or is it just more money. So far I haven't spent a dime on this project as I made the frame all out of scrap laying around the farm. I'll post a picture as soon as I'm all done and it's painted.
The spears are all I have to go buy and they will cost about 65 bucks each locally with the sleeve. Should I do two or just one big spear with a couple small ones to stabilize it? It's mostly going to be used for hauling them out of the pasture but maybe for lifting them off and onto trailers too. I think it will go high enough. Some of our bales are well over a ton but the spears are rated adequately for it.
I've never used one before and was just wondering what's best.
Thanks
 
   / 3 pt round bale mover #2  
I would recommend one big spear with 2 small stabilizer spears. I stab the big spear in the center of the bale when picking up hay.
 
   / 3 pt round bale mover #3  
I have the one spear with the two small stabilizers. I see my neighbor use his two spear for other things as well, he unloads light pallet's. He stacks square bales on pallets for his horse's and can move them.

Sometimes I wish I had the two spear for other use's, have to keep in mind the key here is for light duty, I don't think they are intended as forks. May be worth the extra 65 bucks???
 
   / 3 pt round bale mover #4  
I think you will have trouble lifting high enough with a 3pt spear. I've used them on loaders but never on a 3pt. The 3pt hay movers I have all go under the bale and even those are limited on lift height with an 84hp Deere. The other problem with a spear is getting it into a single bale standing alone, tends to push the bale.

dsb
 
   / 3 pt round bale mover #5  
What dsb5610 said, I second.

Now, if you DO go ahead with a spear 3pt design... I think it MANDATORY that you have two small stabalizing points as well. Reason is that since you are thinking of trying to use it to load trailers, you WILL seek to use it that way... and, when you have trouble lifting high enough, you WILL drive the large spike into the bale down low so you can lift the whole thing higher... and, without the stabalizing points, the bale will, all too frequently, rotate on the point and you'll be eloquent in your commentary:D

Know that you will only be able to spike it from the end.... it just won't work worth a darn from the rolled side.
 
   / 3 pt round bale mover #6  
One big spear (top, center near the toplink pin) and two smaller spears on the bar between the lift arms to stabilize.
Lift height? well, they are hard to use to load a trailer but that is what the FEL is for. 3pt spears in my book are only for feeding the bale or picking one up for counterweight. It only needs to get high enough to clear any ditches you might have to go through.
 
   / 3 pt round bale mover #7  
Save the $65.00. Look some old truck axles. lee
 
   / 3 pt round bale mover
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I've got a new 95 horse New holland and it has a pretty good lift height on the hitch. I know it's enough to get it on our flatbed if I have to.

I'm going into town today to pick up a spear and the bushing. I'm putting in two smaller ones on the bar like you all suggested too. I was able to make those here. I should be able to test it out tonight.
 
   / 3 pt round bale mover #9  
The way that works best for me, as far as moving hay with a spear. Adjust your top link a little long, so that the spear tip actually sits a good bit low. Back up to the bale and let the tip go into the center of the bale six inches or so. Then, pick up the bale so that it is resting on the back side. Then, back slowly and let down on the lift at the same time, and the spear will slide right in. I have loaded and un loaded trailers with them, but I live in the land of "don't have and make do". But, if you keep the spear parallel or in line with the centerline of the bale as you back up, things should be fine. See, by letting the tip down with the toplink, and lifting up a little before you back up, you maintain a lot of adjustability of your angle as you progress rearward.
 

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