Having just had a NH TC40DA for one week now, I'm still figuring out the finer points of implement hookup. When your off alignment slightly and can't muscle lift points into position, what tools do you use?? How much force can you use to persuade the links into place??
3-PT Persuasion
- Thread starter flINTLOCK
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N80
Super Member
Remember that one link should have an adjustable lift rod. When backing up, get the other lift arm postioned just right, then use the adjustment screw in the other one to get it in position. But, don't worry, this is one of those things that you just have to learn to do. I don't think anyone can adequately explain things in words. I've only been doing it two years and I've got it down pretty well, I rarely have to use the adjustable lift rod. But some days it is still like herding cats.
As for the answer to your question, I've got some 3x5 inch 'posts' that are about 4 feet long. I use them to pry implements into place and to wack the living daylights out of the lift arm to get it into place. So far the only damage has been done to me.
(Splinters, bruised hands). I'm sure it isn't good form or good advice to wack the lift arms onto the hitch pins....but sometimes its just the ticket.
For better and more practical advice, park your implements on a hard level surface (I have none) and even better, park them on a dolly that can be moved. Lacking those two luxurys, at least park the implement on some cribbing, pallets, etc. It keeps them out of the dirt and makes them easier to move and/or hook up.
As for the answer to your question, I've got some 3x5 inch 'posts' that are about 4 feet long. I use them to pry implements into place and to wack the living daylights out of the lift arm to get it into place. So far the only damage has been done to me.
(Splinters, bruised hands). I'm sure it isn't good form or good advice to wack the lift arms onto the hitch pins....but sometimes its just the ticket.For better and more practical advice, park your implements on a hard level surface (I have none) and even better, park them on a dolly that can be moved. Lacking those two luxurys, at least park the implement on some cribbing, pallets, etc. It keeps them out of the dirt and makes them easier to move and/or hook up.
flintloc dont fight this kind of thing....get some type of quick change system...like pats easy change....there are several out there that work wonderfully. Having to wrestle your implements onto the tractor takes the fun out of using one. And when you dread changing one out chances are you will put it off just because it is a chore. For $100 or less you can save alot of back pain.
Loosen/remove your sway bars/chains so you can swing the lower links side to side. Dunno if they have telescoping ends but that makes life real easy. Assuming they aren't get the lower one on first, clipped and all. Lift the 3pt until your other link is aligned vertically with the unhooked lower link. Swing that one in and attach. A litte persuasion from the foot or otherwise helps for these.
For the top link, if the top is too close/link too long, adjust top link or raise 3pt a little. if its too far away/link too short, lower 3pt (this might involve driving forward a little to get it to come forward). Hope this helps
PS As said, when you take it off, block it or drop it somewhere level so the bottom two points let off at the same time/height. makes hook up easier.
For the top link, if the top is too close/link too long, adjust top link or raise 3pt a little. if its too far away/link too short, lower 3pt (this might involve driving forward a little to get it to come forward). Hope this helps
PS As said, when you take it off, block it or drop it somewhere level so the bottom two points let off at the same time/height. makes hook up easier.
jeffinsgf
Veteran Member
Didn't you get a hydraulic top link? I thought it was in one of your posts.
As mentioned, get the fixed arm on first, then you can dial in the adjustable arm. The hydraulic top link can help with fore and aft adjustments if you hook it up first.
As mentioned, get the fixed arm on first, then you can dial in the adjustable arm. The hydraulic top link can help with fore and aft adjustments if you hook it up first.
Not that I am an expert on this, but my experience has been to get the non-adjustable link lined up and on first, then I hook up the Top link next. I can then 1) move the 3PT slightly (or the tractor) to align the other side; or 2) for small movements, I screw the Top Link adjustment up/down which moves the implement in/out to align it for the link pin location on the other side.
JayDavis
Bronze Member
All you have to do if you are off center is just get one lift arm attached if the other side needs to come forward back the tracter up, the arm that is attached will push on that side of the implement and rotate the other side towards the tracter.
If the other side needs to move back, drive forward, the lift arm that is attached will pull that end and rotate the other end away from you.
This works with a 90hp ag tractor with a very heavy 3pt disc plow. You are not going to persuade that implement with anything you can do by hand so you either have to line up perfect or do as above. Maybe this technique can be applied to other types of implements.
If the other side needs to move back, drive forward, the lift arm that is attached will pull that end and rotate the other end away from you.
This works with a 90hp ag tractor with a very heavy 3pt disc plow. You are not going to persuade that implement with anything you can do by hand so you either have to line up perfect or do as above. Maybe this technique can be applied to other types of implements.
RollingsFarms
Veteran Member
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after years of doing it the hard way, i have decided that if i only get one thing and ONE THING only as an option on my next tractor, it WILL BE telescoping draft links. no $$$ amount will sway my decision from it, its a "must have" for me. i have tried the same tricks as many of you have and have come to the conclusion that i just need to go ahead and get telescoping links on my next rig.
