Ballast 3 Point Hitch Capacity and Ballast Question

[Zinno87]

I have a 4320. The manual states that the 3-point can lift "2500# 24" behind link arms" or "3130# at lift link ends". I'm not sure exactly what this means. I would assume that the 3103# is at the balls at the end of the lower links, the ones that the implements get pinned to, and the 2500# is 24" behind the balls. The thing that confuses me is that they say link arms and not lower link ends. When they say link arms, do they actually mean the arms that lift the lower links, the ones that extend vertically?

I just purchased a loader and need to figure this out to make a ballast box. I'm thinking about a barrel filled with concrete, but that's only about 1170# and it would be close to the rear of the tractor, which diminishes the effectiveness. I'd like to make something larger and more effective by placing it further back, so I'm trying to figure out the exact lift cap.

 

[WarrenF]

I have a 4320. The manual states that the 3-point can lift "2500# 24" behind link arms" or "3130# at lift link ends". I'm not sure exactly what this means. I would assume that the 3103# is at the balls at the end of the lower links, the ones that the implements get pinned to, and the 2500# is 24" behind the balls. The thing that confuses me is that they say link arms and not lower link ends. When they say link arms, do they actually mean the arms that lift the lower links, the ones that extend vertically?

I just purchased a loader and need to figure this out to make a ballast box. I'm thinking about a barrel filled with concrete, but that's only about 1170# and it would be close to the rear of the tractor, which diminishes the effectiveness. I'd like to make something larger and more effective by placing it further back, so I'm trying to figure out the exact lift cap.

Hook up to your implement. Lift it.....if the front end comes off of the ground then you will know you need to put weight on the front end. If it feels light on the front end, you know you need to put a bit of weight on the front end. As for the amount of weight your lifting.....I am trying to think of something that would weigh over a ton that you would use....can't think of any right now.

 

[Zinno87]

The question was more related to how much weight can I put on the back and where in order to counter the weight of the loader and load on the front. More weight on the back means more traction and less weight on the fron axle.

 

[WarrenF]

The question was more related to how much weight can I put on the back and where in order to counter the weight of the loader and load on the front. More weight on the back means more traction and less weight on the fron axle.

According to what you wrote....you can put at least a ton of weight on the rear end. That is according to your owners manual....CORRECT??? If you put a ton of weight off of the three point hitch....I will promise you that there will be plenty of weight to do about anything with your front end loader.

I think your making this too complicated.

 

[RogerH]

You are correct. When it refers to 24" behind the lift links, it is referring to 24" behind the center of the lower hitch pin (center of balls). The higher capacity given is at the center of the hitch balls.

Your loader operator's manual (assuming it is a Deere loader) should provide recommended ballast for the tractor.

 

[WH401]

What do you plan on picking up? Do you or have you thought of getting filled rear tires so that you take away from the full amount of weight you'll need to have on the 3 pt?

 

[ms-honda]

Only problem with ballast box would be if you wanted to hook up box scraper or rotary cutter or something and use loader at same time. Just a little advice on this I would consider having rear tires loaded. It is still recommended to have additional rear ballast on 3pt hitch with loaded tires, but you have more freedom of attachments. Plus, loading rear tires gives you better traction, ballast and a lower center of gravity. Also a non corrosive liquid is available which is a plus.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I have a 4320. The manual states that the 3-point can lift "2500# 24" behind link arms" or "3130# at lift link ends". I'm not sure exactly what this means. I would assume that the 3103# is at the balls at the end of the lower links, the ones that the implements get pinned to, and the 2500# is 24" behind the balls. The thing that confuses me is that they say link arms and not lower link ends. When they say link arms, do they actually mean the arms that lift the lower links, the ones that extend vertically?

I just purchased a loader and need to figure this out to make a ballast box. I'm thinking about a barrel filled with concrete, but that's only about 1170# and it would be close to the rear of the tractor, which diminishes the effectiveness. I'd like to make something larger and more effective by placing it further back, so I'm trying to figure out the exact lift cap.

They mean at the balls on the lower links. I am surprised at the 2500# figure since my 2010 will lift a filled 200G boom sprayer. ....... Anyway, if you add a whole lot of scrap steel to the concrete you could get a 55G barrel up to about 3000#. You could also construct a platform on a 3pt Quick Hitch to set it on to get it back a little further.
Im planning to do a barrel weight for my 7520 and mount it sideways to pivot in the balls. That way if it hits ground it will roll instead of dig in.
larry

 

[jenkinsph]

Having both a 110tlb and a 4520 I think you are over compensating with rear ballast weight. On my 4520 the six 110 lb wheel weights work well for added traction without liquid ballast. If I had a loader on the tractor then filling the tire with RimGuard would add even more weight, all without tying up the rear hitch. My 110tlb doesn't have filled tires or wheel weights only the hoe and it doesn't weigh over 1200 to 1500 lbs.

I woudn't get too concerned about overloading the front axle it will handle whatever the loader will pick up. If you can add most of the weight needed to the rear wheels you will still maintain good steering with the front wheels.

All of that said, you could hang a good boxblade or rotary cutter ect. on the rear hitch for additional weight and to transfer some of the forces to the rear axle.

It was suggested on an above post to consult the ballast calculator I think that is a good idea.



Steve