3 acre newb here. What do I need??

[Hill HIgh Guy]

Hello all, I've been lurking for a little while trying to figure out what I need for my new 3 acre property but I'm now experiencing "paralysis by analysis". I'll be building a house (I'm the GC) starting in the next few months. The property used to be an apple orchard that is now covered in vines, scrub trees, poison ivy etc... There is going to be rocks to move on the property (look to be floaters at this point) as well as clearing most of the lot to make a yard, a 250' paved driveway to maintain during the occasional snow as well as bush hogging until I can get a yard in. I know I can rent heavy machinery to make quick work of the property, but I want to take my time and do it all myself. I've poured over reviews, comparisons, first hand accounts, but I'm still having trouble. So I now humbly turn to TBN for guidance.

The local JD dealer let me rent a 3038E with a 5' hog to cut down the weeds and it felt "right" to me. Not too small, not too big , and heavy enough to be stable. Almost the entire property is on a grade (low side front of property to 60' up to the back side) so stability is going to be important. Don't think I need a BH but I'm not sure about the mid PTO. Initially it will be tow behind cutters, blades, and other ground engagers to smooth the lot. Bucket with a ratchet rake or tooth bar to pull up small trees and vines. Then later on, garden, post holes, etc...

I don't want to spend over 23K on this tractor and I don't think I need to be over 25 hp to keep clear of what sounds like could be problematic emission issues. Additionally, I'm a big guy and operator platform comfort is important. I've looked at (as well as sat on) the following:

Yanmar 324 - dealer 30 miles away and just started carrying the brand. Lot of content for money, 2 pedal Hydro, Good ground clearance, good joystick location on fender. Only 2 speed hydro.

TYM 234 - Dealer 15 miles away but just a nursery that has just started selling equipment. Very similar to the Yanmar above in comfort and price. Similar performance

John Deere 2R series - Dealer is in town, only 2 speed hydro, good weight, lots of features, very pricey
John Deere 3E series - rented one, liked size and weight. Could probably get a good deal on one, just worried about DPF, 2 speed hydro

Kubota B2650 - Has all the bells and whistles, mid PTO in case I want to do MMM once I get the yard in. Operator platform seems tight. Treadle pedal is not very comfortable for me (it seems too close to the rear of the platform). Good lift numbers

Kubota L2501 - Dealer is in town, big step up in size, like the weight, same treadle pedal issue but it's a little forward so a little more comfortable. Is this too much tractor?

Massey 1526 - Just found a Massey dealer 20 miles away. Don't have pricing on this yet but check it out. Very comfortable platform, 2 pedal 3 speed hydro. Seems very comparable to the Kubota B2650

Massey 1726E - Seems similar to Kubota L2501. Big tractor, 3 speed 2 pedal hydro. The 2501 lift numbers seem a little better

So I think it's going to come down to a Kubota or a Massey. But which size? Will both sizes handle ground engaging equipment the same??

This is so much harder than buying a car!!! LOL

I would appreciate all thoughts and advice.

 

[jeff9366]

Hill High Guy
I'm trying to figure out what I need for my 3 acre property. I'll be starting a house (I'm the GC) in the next few months. I need clear the lot to make a yard, a 250' paved driveway to maintain during the occasional snow. I can rent heavy machinery to make quick work of the project, but I want to do the work myself.

Box Blade is the most common implement for grading foundations and drives, which includes moving dirt short distances. Also the most common implement to serve as a Three Point Hitch counterbalance to moderate or heavy loads in the FEL bucket. For both purposes buy a Box Blade with at least 100 pounds weight per foot of width. Five feet = 500 pounds minimum. [[ BB2560 = 471 pounds. ]]
LINK: http://www.landpride.com/ari/attach/lp/public/lit/lit_bb25.pdf

The property used to be an apple orchard that is now covered in vines, scrub trees, poison ivy etc...
Ratchet Rake bucket attachment is the optimum tool for pulling vines and removing scrub of all kinds by the roots. You will need herbicide to eradicate Poison Ivy.

There is going to be rocks to move on the property (look to be floaters at this point)
Heavily burdened FELs degrade tractor stability, more stability degradation with every inch of lift height. With the <3,000 pound tractors you are considering, buy an old car hood at the scrap yard. Chain behind tractor. Use scrap hood as a sleigh to move rocks. Roll rocks onto hood with Ratchet Rake bucket attachment.

If rocks are <50 pounds you can load manually, then move stones in tractor's Front End Loader. (FEL) Good work for the kids. Heavily burdened FELs degrade tractor stability, more stability degradation with every inch of lift height.


Almost the entire property is on a grade (low side front of property to 60' up to the back side) so stability is going to be important.
1) Heavier tractors are more stable than light tractors.
2) Rear wheels can be set a various widths by the dealer. Direct the dealer to set rear wheels as wide as possible.
3) Fill rear tires 3/4 with liquid. Loading rear tires 3/4 lowers the tractor center of gravity.

1 - 2 - 3 are standard operating procedures for traditional tractors regardless of brand.

Don't think I need a BH. You have not specified any task requiring a $7,000 Backhoe.

I don't want to spend over 23K on this tractor. I want to stay under 25-hp to avoid complex Tier IV emission controls. Additionally, I'm a big guy so operator platform space is important. I've sat on following:

Kubota B2650 - Has all the bells and whistles, mid PTO in case I want to do MMM once I get the yard in. Operator platform seems tight. Treadle pedal is not very comfortable for me. Good lift numbers
You probably do not drive a car the size of a Toyota Corolla.

Kubota L2501 - Dealer is in town, big step up in size, like the weight, same treadle pedal issue but it's a little forward so a little more comfortable. Is this too much tractor? NO.

No mid-PTO available for L2501. The Kubota Ls are one increment larger than Kubota Bs. Heavy tractors are more stable than light tractors. Three-range HST on L2501 includes an "independent" PTO, much better than old style "live" PTO packaged with clutch/gear L2501. L2501 has 100 cubic inch engine, largest displacement engine in its class, delivering power/torque in a wider band than competitors.

 

[Hill HIgh Guy]

Thank you for the feedback Jeff and the idea to use the old car hood is an awesome suggestion!

 

[jeff9366]

Thank you for the feedback Jeff and the idea to use the old car hood is an awesome suggestion!

Here is the Three Point Hitch implement you use:

HANDI HITCH

SHORT BOOM POLE ADAPTER

 

[Citydude]

The two choices you have narrowed it down to will serve your purpose. One thing to enhance the tractor you choose is adding at least 3 rear remotes and at minimum a hydraulic top link, a side link as well if your budget allows it. Moving dirt without the ability to adjust a box blade from the seat for a few days left me no choice but to add a top and tilt with a bad knee. If your young, bouncing on and off a tractor shouldn't be an issue....

 

[Hill HIgh Guy]

So I'm learning about the remotes. Each remote is a pair correct? So for a top and tilt, I would need one pair of remotes? I'd like to get a grapple in the future so would it be better to run that from the back remotes on get a third function? I know it's different for different brands but what is the general cost for remotes and 3rd functions?

 

[Citydude]

You would need 2 pairs (remotes) for the top and tilt. A pair or one remote for each cylinder. Cost vary on the remotes depending if you source the parts and install yourself or have a dealer install them. Same goes for the 3rd function.

I had the dealer install the 3rd function and a landpride grapple for $3500.00. Pricey....The remotes I installed myself for around $700.00. $495.00 of that was having a hydraulic shop build and install the hoses. Pricey. There are cheaper routes than mine. Search the fourm for top and tilt threads. You'll get a better understanding of costs.

 

[davrow]

I can get away with using the rear remotes for a grapple because I leave the backhoe on, so top 'n tilt is not being used.
You will normally have a 3 pt implement on (bush hog, box blade, post hole digger) so you really don't want to use a rear remote for the grapple. Better to budget for that now.

The impression I get here on the forum is that people (not everyone, of course) find a 2 speed to be either too low or too high with no sweet spot. If you go with the HST transmission get a 3 speed.

 

[jeff9366]

I'm trying to figure out what I need for my new 3 acre property. The property is on a grade (low side front of property to 60' up to the back side) so stability is going to be important.

I only want to spend $23,000 on a tractor

On three sloping acres you probably will not have sufficient use for a grapple to justify cost. Every mechanical option requires money, time, maintenance and storage space. You have an immediate need for a 60" Box Blade, 60" Rotary Cutter / Bush Hog, Ratchet Rake and maybe a Tooth Bar for digging with the FEL. Considerable $$ totaled.

On three acres acres consider simple alternatives to a grapple.
ULTRA FORKS: Multi-Spear Ultra Fork

Multi spear will load/transport tree debris, usually without operator getting off tractor. Minimal storage space.

Once construction is complete, maintenance of three acres will require only forty to sixty tractor engine hours per year.

 

[Egon]

On three sloped acres it will be unlikely to have any need for the third range. If the tractor is roaded then you will use it.