2615 Glow Plug Controller

[AchingBack]

When I turn the key to heat the plugs, the light no longer appears on the dash, and after 10 seconds there is no longer a shutoff click, as before. This causes hard starting at lower temps. I know the fuse is good, but there is no power to the plugs until I attempt to start the tractor, at which time the glow plug light appears until starting, then shuts off.

I'm assuming the controller is kaput. I've checked all wiring for rodent damage, and everything is in tact. Thoughts please.

 

[PILOON]

In that some controllers are pricy you can always go manual.

To do so a HD relay (plugs draw high current) is used to replace the magic controller and operated with a PTT switch.
You then count off seconds while energizing the glow plugs.

B4 doing so be sure the plugs are OK.
Using an ohm meter measure the resistance of each one which should be very low, like 10 ohms range.
After all they are but mini heater elements.

 

[AchingBack]

In that some controllers are pricy you can always go manual.

To do so a HD relay (plugs draw high current) is used to replace the magic controller and operated with a PTT switch.
You then count off seconds while energizing the glow plugs.

B4 doing so be sure the plugs are OK.
Using an ohm meter measure the resistance of each one which should be very low, like 10 ohms range.
After all they are but mini heater elements.

Thanks for the input. Plugs are good. There just isn't any power to them through the controller. What is a PTT switch, and where do you buy one?

 

[Roadworthy]

I suspect he means a push to talk switch as on a microphone. The proper switch would be a spring loaded to off SPST (single pole single throw) switch. You can get them at auto parts stores. Figure about ten amps draw per glow plug, hence forty amps for four glow plugs. Buy the switch accordingly and you can power the glow plugs directly, no relay. I prefer a switch controlled by lever to a push button switch - had both types.

 

[George2615]

I agree with the others. If you are sure the glow plugs are good you can add your own manually pushed button through a relay to heat the plugs. Years ago when I had my 2615 I had the plugs go bad 3 times. At $90 per set it got expensive then I found out Mahindra offered a kit which consisted of a new timer / controller and 3 new plugs of a different voltage rating. My own dealer never told me about this kit and I found out here on TBN through another dealer. I called him and had him ship me the replacement kit. Never had a problem after that. If I recall you already changed your controller a few years ago so you either need to bite the bullet for another or add you own push button.

 

[AchingBack]

I suspect he means a push to talk switch as on a microphone. The proper switch would be a spring loaded to off SPST (single pole single throw) switch. You can get them at auto parts stores. Figure about ten amps draw per glow plug, hence forty amps for four glow plugs. Buy the switch accordingly and you can power the glow plugs directly, no relay. I prefer a switch controlled by lever to a push button switch - had both types.

I agree with the others. If you are sure the glow plugs are good you can add your own manually pushed button through a relay to heat the plugs. Years ago when I had my 2615 I had the plugs go bad 3 times. At $90 per set it got expensive then I found out Mahindra offered a kit which consisted of a new timer / controller and 3 new plugs of a different voltage rating. My own dealer never told me about this kit and I found out here on TBN through another dealer. I called him and had him ship me the replacement kit. Never had a problem after that. If I recall you already changed your controller a few years ago so you either need to bite the bullet for another or add you own push button.

If I understand correctly, I am to bypass the little black box between the ignition switch and the glow plugs. I suppose the switch location would be up to me. Would this be accomplished by simply cutting the male wiring plug going to the controller, and wiring in the switch?

 

[George2615]

Check the wire gauge size going to the plugs. If it is about 12GA that's good for 20A. You could run a wire from the battery plus to 20A push button you install on the dash then down to the plugs. You wouldn't have an indicator light so you would have to guess about 10 seconds.
Its been a few years but I don't recall the wire feeding the plugs being to heavy a gauge.
You could unplug the existing controller / timer which is not working.

 

[Roadworthy]

I never had a Mahindra. I did have about a 1980 vintage Mitsubishi - no relay, no glow plug timer. The glow plugs don't run at twelve volts, it's more like 10.5. To adjust for this Mitsubishi use a resistance wire indicator in series with the plugs. It was supposed to heat up and glow to show the circuit was operational. It was also supposed to drop the voltage to the plugs. There was no relay in this circuit. Hot lead went to the switch, throught the resistor, an then to the glow plugs. Thirty seconds was usually adequate on sixty degree days while it may take sixty seconds for thirty degree days. For wire size, twelve should work for three plugs, ten would be good for four. Wire from the factory was much smaller.

 

[skipmarcy]

For me, I would rather have a 20a or 30a relay controlled by a lighter duty switch (either push button or toggle). You mount the relay nearer the battery & engine area to keep the higher current wires and fuse/circuit breaker short & sweet and use 14 or 16 ga. wires from the relay to your switch in the dash or wherever. Relays are cheap anymore and I think would be cheaper than finding a DECENT 20a or 30a switch and use less 12 or 10 ga wire for the install. Definitely want a fuse or circuit breaker on that whatever you do and the closer to the power source the better (battery). My 4110 has a separate timer in the dash that energizes the relay that is mounted out above the battery under the hood. If my timer went bad I would use the original relay with a momentary switch on the dash to energize it. The relay uses a fusible link right from the battery just below it, an inline fuse could take it's place if no primary wire is available. Your model may have the timer and relay incorporated into one unit, I don't know.

 

[AchingBack]

Keeping with my modus operandi, I've decided to SIBKIS, see it big, keep it simple. After testing my system and consulting my dealer, I've decided to simply replace the factory relay/controller. I don't have the time or the desire to modify it. Thanks for all of the fine input. It really helped.