24x50 Steel Truss Pole Barn - Armour Metals

[gabeancounter]

Researched for months before deciding to go with a steel truss build.

Wanted to share a few tips I came across during the construction.

Batter boards should be placed about a foot and a half away on both sides from the corner.
Make sure the top of the boards (height) are the same on all four corners. I did this by site. I guess you could use a string level or transit.

I have seen several comments about having trouble keeping the overall dimensions when they adjust for diagonal. You must move both strings the same distance. ??? Mine was 24x50 and both 24 and 50 were dead on but the diagonal dimension was off around 8". I moved both lines on the left sidedown around 4". I was then with about an inch. Couple more slight adjustments and it was exact. The 50' distance never changed because if I moved one line a 1/4 inch then the other line was moved the same distance.


8" auger is not big enough for 6x6 post. I had to go buy a 12" auger from tractor supply. The 12" made a perfect size hole in my opinion. Also a standard 3ph auger will only drill around 40-43" deep.

To set the post in the hole, I placed a 2x4x8 in the hole then pulled the tractor with a set of carryall forks and post within about 2' of the hole. My son and I walked the post up til it dropped in the hole. Pretty easy - post are 6x6x16'.

I used 2x4x8 PT boards for temp support legs. Stakes were made with these same boards. I used treated lumber because it was actually cheaper than standard studs. $1.97 - used 40 on my 16 poles. Used 2-80 quikcrete per hole. Backfilled with dirt and tamped with 12' sledge hammer.

 

[gabeancounter]

After setting all the post, I decided that trying to lift the steel trusses and the metal roof work was a little out of my league. I had three guys come in and trim the post and install the trusses and metal. $1300 was about as cheap as renting equipment and paying hourly help. Picked up a few great tips 26' walk boards, scaffolding and 2x6's crew to the post as support beams for the walk boards. All this made things look easier.

 

[gabeancounter]

Pics with roof

 

[brokenknee]

So how deap did you drill the holes and how did you get the extra depth? What part of the country are you located in?

Keep the pictures coming, we like pictures.

 

[gabeancounter]

Holes are 40-43" deep. The manual post holes diggers are only for removing loose dirt! Local building code is 36". Athens, GA.

 

[gabeancounter]

Two of my concrete mixers. One of them is always on break!

 

[rasimmo]

Looks good.
As for the batter boards and string, I have not used any in a few years. A family member bought a laser level and corner marker as a kit. I am not sure what the technical name for the corner marker contraption is, but it 5 laser out of it. One up, one down, one out of each side, and one out the front. It works great and saves a lot of time. I am not suggesting you bo buy one, but it is nice to use and saves a lot of time.

 

[ahodge]

I am thinking about buying a pole barn kit from Armour Metals. Their prices look good! Did you have a good experience with them? Thanks.

 

[gabeancounter]

I think many of the guys that sell these pole barn kits are part-time car salesman. Never pay sticker price! Outside of haggling on price, everything went pretty smooth.

I was happy with the quality of the materials. Gives a little extra of everything to help ensure you have enough. Be sure you know what spacing you want on the post (8,10,12), how long of post you need, and overhang, pitch of truss etc. Example: Many kits space 24' wide buildings as 12'OC. I felt that was to far and requested 10'OC. Overhangs are 12" on sides and 18" on gables.

Have made a fair amount of progress on enclosing the barn. Will post pics later tonight. Thanks

 

[ahodge]

Thanks for the input. I am looking for a similar size building 24x48x14. The base price for the kit is $5170 on the web site. I want to add overhangs and would want to go to 10'OC trusses also. What did you end up paying? Thanks.