2305 with 24" auger for tree planting

[ADin]

I'm needing to plant a number of trees in a couple of weeks and was trying to decide how to best dig the holes. Due to the way the landscaping is progressing I believe I will need to be planting trees on at least three separate occasions so I trying to avoid a rental solution. As a result I was considering purchasing the TSC backhoe for the JD2305 and then only renting the 2' auger as needed (~$25). In the end I would likely break even on cost, have no need to trailer anything, and have a digger to boot.

My questions, are the auger bits standard in shaft size, for example between the TSC 12" and rental 24", such that the TSC digger should handle either. Finally, anybody have strong hesitations driving a 24" from a JD2305? I would never be digging deeper than ~18" when using a 24" bit since it would only be used for planting trees.

Anybody got a better suggestion on tree planting than renting a backhoe and/or skidsteer w/ auger?

 

[dirtworksequip]

Auger manufactures use different type splines on the mandrel shafts. You would have to check out the one you are buying to make sure the one you want to rent would be compatible. My question is. What type soil are you going to be augering? If its rockey you might opt for a skidsteer w/ hyd auger they do a super job.

 

[Sean_Pecor]

You're not going to like what I'm going to tell you. Also, I'm not a professional landscaper but I enjoy learning about it and have substantial landscaping around my house and farm. If you want a tree with a 25' in diameter crown then you'll want to break up the surrounding soil at least 12" deep within a 12' radius around where a tree will be dropped. Given enough time mother nature makes sure the first foot of soil is set up well for tree growth but humans tend to screw things up. We grade out the good loose soil, we heavily compact the soil in other ways etc. So, if it was my project then I'd use a backhoe to dig a four foot deep hole (diameter doesn't really matter but the bigger the better) and then fill it with loose topsoil (light on the clay don't want gradual compaction). Then I'd use backhoe to dig 12" down within a 12' radius of the hole and then disc up that soil and add good topsoil if it needed it. Then I'd make sure not to run heavy equipment over that newly churned soil. The goal is to provide enough loose healthy soil for the pioneering roots that will spread from the tree. These roots are spaghetti thin and not strong enough to drill through compacted material. Tap roots that head downward don't enter the picture for many years, it's that first 12" of soil around the tree that is key. If you create that environment you'll be in good shape. If you don't, you'll stunt your tree. There is an article in the most recent edition of Landcape Architect magazine that discusses this problem, comparing most new suburbs, even those that are less than 25 years old, against older neighborhoods with massive trees. After up to 25 years those 'burbs still have tiny 12' tall trees because they are stunted by the compacted subsoil around them. It was an interesting read.

If you've got heavy clay then make certain you read up on drainage, otherwise if you just dig a 3' diameter hole and drop the tree in, your trees may be drowned because the loose soil will absorb rainfall but the water won't be able to drain through the clay, thus rotting the roots and killing the tree. If you can't avoid this then stick with trees that like to keep wet roots (i.e., trees that grow on creekbanks etc).

Hope this helps.

Sean

 

[ADin]

Sean,
My soil is hard, poor clay soil so I always try to loosen and amend as much as possible. I can't disagree with anything you've said in the ideal case, however, 4' deep surprises me a bit as I would be more worried that after natural settling the tree would be left in a sunken hole, even if I started out with a bit of extra crowning. I wonder if the 4' recommendation came about as a result of somebody wanting to ensure 99+% of situations were covered whereas a 2' depth probably would have handled 95+% of situations, etc. I've also heard not to dig any deeper than the root ball unless you definitely loosen a good bit of the surrounding soil as the settling of the root ball will rip the fragile tendrels being put out.

With the exception of a few varieties of trees, I've always heard that addressing the surrounding top 12" is always the most important concern. The exception is where serious hardpan issues exist affecting drainage and water retention or certain deep root variety trees.

I absolutely agree with the notion of loosening and amending the top 12" in a 12' radius although practically with the number of trees I need to plant, existing irrigation lines, property lines, etc. that won't be possible. Some will be in beds that will generally provide 10'+ feet radius of tilled and amended soil. Worst case will unfortunately be about 3' radius.

Personally, I suspect the bigger problem with stunted growth is that people buy as large a tree as possible with undersized root balls and then place them in holes only a couple of inches bigger than the root ball to begin with. This stresses and is very difficult on the poor tree. If a tree is healthy and can quickly establish it's roots to the drip line then it's got a fair chance even against poor soil.

dirtworksequip -
Soil is hard clay but I would not consider soil very "rocky", at least in the top 12"-18" were I would be digging. Most of the rocks of any substance that did exist have been removed when the property was farmland before me. I'm still digging out and moving those rocks which were migrated to the edge of my woods.

I planned on checking the shaft dimensions and compatibilities tomorrow, but assuming they fit together, I still would like people's thoughts on driving a 24" auger with the 2305. I'm somewhat assuming that the 2305 would have plenty of power to drive the auger up to the point of breaking the shear pin and that the shear pin would break well before I did any damage to the 2305. Is this correct assumption?

 

[Sean_Pecor]

I think the 2305 should be able to turn that auger, compatibilities and clay strength notwithstanding. Mind the fluid temps though. We've got red Piedmont clay and moderate sized quartz and limestone rock over here in Franklin County, VA, I'd hesitate to try out my 2210 rather than my 3520 when digging scads of holes but if it were just a handful of holes I don't see why not. I tried to kill my 2210 with big jobs on several ocassions - prior to buying the 3520 - and it kept and keeps on ticking

Sean

 

[Dargo]

I planted well over 5000 trees last year in Southern Indiana. I consulted with the IN Soil Conservation Office, the Indiana Purdue ag office, the IN Department of Natural Resources, The Vallonia Tree Nursery, and the IN Department of Forestry. Send me a PM if you want to know what their end result recommendations were.