2305 governor linkage question

[mercdv]

Hey all,

I need some help and I'm hoping this is the place to get it. First, I'd like to start off by saying I have really basic mechanic skills. By basic I mean I can follow service manuals and that is about it. My 2305 sat parked for a long time due to a sick child and back injury. When I started it up last time it ran fine at low idle but when I throttled up it jumped to max RPM's and stayed there. The throttle had no effect and the tractor would not shutoff. It was not increasing RPM's like a runaway but just stuck at max RPM's. I finally got it shutoff by cutting the air supply. I got mad and left it for a long time again and just now getting back to working on it. The fuel solenoid checks out just fine. The throttle didn't seem like it was moving much in the governor so I have removed the governor but here is where I am lost because the manual doesn't say anything about the fuel injection pump and the info I can find on the web doesn't answer my question. So here goes...

The engine is a Yanmar 3TNV76 in case you need to know. The question I have is in the picture (below) "D" is the governor linkage that attaches the governor to the fuel injection pump with pin "C." Where the linkage connects to the rod and spring coming out of the injection pump (not sure what it is called but it is what the red arrow points to), that was really hard to move to get the linkage apart. Having never worked on one of these before is that rod and spring supposed to slide freely in and out of the pump with very little pressure. I'm assuming it shouldn't take much pressure but I have no idea. If it is supposed to move freely I'm guessing that is my problem since mine doesn't and it seems like that is the only part that doesn't move freely in the governor area that could be stuck to cause the high RPM's. Any thoughts? In the picture that is the governor housing on the left and the fuel injection pump on the right.



Thanks....

 

[beenthere]

:welcome: to TBN
Poked around a bit, and came across this Yanmar .pdf on your engine.
http://amotordiesel.com.br/uploads/TNV_IDI_ServiceManual_7-28-05.pdf

Some info on page 5-28 regards the governor..

Hope this helps.. but may require being taken to a Yanmar service center. Hope not..

 

[DLTTrekkers]

Old fuel become sticky....replace with new and see if it solves your peoblem ?

 

[mercdv]

Thanks so much for the quick reply and thanks for the PDF link, beenthere. I had found that PDF too and from what I'm putting together in my simple mind is that the rod and spring are supposed to move freely but I'm not sure. I kind of hope that someone who has experience can confirm that for me since it doesn't really talk about that rod and spring in the PDF. I'm trying to figure out if it can be worked free or if it has to be serviced by a diesel shop. Trying to get a little more understanding before I talk to the shop. It's a new shop and I don't know if I can trust them but it is also 31 miles closer than the old place I used so I'd like to try them.

 

[DLTTrekkers]

new fuel and then work it by hand....if it free up ....time well spend

 

[mercdv]

new fuel and then work it by hand....if it free up ....time well spend

I tried that when I first pulled it, no dice. I was hoping it would have been easy like that.

Was thinking about trying Seafoam in it next...but it is really hard to move like I really have to force it with leverage and I'm scared I will mess it up.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Remove the fuel inlet & return lines from the inj. pump..
Let the fuel drain out..
Spray abunch or penetrating oil in the holes, let it sit 20 minutes & work the rack back & forth..
Keep doing THAT until its free..
BUMPING the engine over to different spots will speed up the process.. as it will "open," different positions inside the pump so the pen. oil can work better..
Good luck.

 

[mercdv]

Remove the fuel inlet & return lines from the inj. pump..
Let the fuel drain out..
Spray abunch or penetrating oil in the holes, let it sit 20 minutes & work the rack back & forth..
Keep doing THAT until its free..
BUMPING the engine over to different spots will speed up the process.. as it will "open," different positions inside the pump so the pen. oil can work better..
Good luck.

I'll give that a shot...thanks.

 

[mercdv]

Well, I'm either making progress or I've trashed a $4000 fuel injection pump. I filled the fuel filter housing with Sea Foam and used the manual pump to fill up the fuel injection pump until it flowed back into the tank. Let it sit for awhile before trying to move the fuel rack. I could move it out a little but it didn't want to go back in at all. Considering it has to be rebuilt if this doesn't work I was willing to push things a little bit. I did tap on it some with the plastic handle of a screw driver and got it moving in a little at a time. I gently tapped on it until it went all the way in, all while spinning the engine a bit between sets of tapping. I did this about 4 times pulling it out and tapping it back in and each time it gets easier. I'm now letting it soak for 24 hours before I repeat the process. It is definitely getting easier to move but it is still not moving easily. So, I either made a colossal mistake by tapping on it and broke/bent something or the calculated gamble worked.

Question, any good place online to get Yanmar engine parts? JD doesn't have some of the engine parts listed. I'd like to order a couple things instead of making them cause I got several projects on my plate and I want to get this thing done. I found a parts list for the actual engine so I am thinking about ordering a few spare parts that the JD shop doesn't carry to have on hand anyway.

 

[thepumpguysc]

ALL you really had to do was, pull the side cover..
Those little screws are TIGHT.. so a hand impact driver & a Phillips bit will get you in there..
THATS what the rack is turning, under the side cover.. control segments.. hooked to the pumping plungers..
The p. plungers are stuck from sitting, is my guess & all your doing is trying to break-up the varnished fuel..
Your just going about it from the "other" end..[gov] Lol.
Spraying pen. oil IN the fuel inlet & outlet will break up the varnish the fastest.. Just keep at it..
IF you applied TO MUCH force to the end of the rack, it IS possible to break off the teeth on the segments..
BUT just tapping on it w/ a plastic handle screwdriver wont do it.. so I think your good..

BTW> where are you located in SC?? I'm between Santee & Monks Corner.. IF your close enough I'll come give you a hand.