2135 Not Starting

[EKPhys]

Hello-

My 2135 has about 320 hours on. It is used several times a week to mow my yard (.75 acre) and 4 or so others.

While mowing pointing up a significant slope, I got a black puff of smoke. continued to run fine for 20 min or so. Then back to my yard where it quit while mowing about 10 min in.

Mower was well warmed up. Generally, it starts easily with choke and 2/3 throttle. I have fuel, and in fact probably flooded it trying to restart it hot with too much choke.

Pushed it to the garage, let it diet overnight. Still no start. Have fuel in cylinder (can see some gather near air intake when I flooded it!). I have spark. Pulled the plug, connected it to the plug wire and ground and saw spark at the electrode. Plug was blackened. Too rich?

Fuel filter is about half full when not running. Fuel cap appears to vent fine. NO engine firing when I turn it over. After draining the battery trying, I jumped it to provide additional a current. Can turn it fine, but no pops or start.

It seemed hot when operating before it killed, but the idiot lights were NOT on.

Can someone suggest some routes for testing? first shop I checked with is 3 weeks out.

SO...I got out the old Honda 3813! Still sounds like a sewing machine...

 

[OldMachinist]

When you're sure it's not flooded give it a shot of ether(starting fluid) and see if it fires. If it fires then you have a fuel problem. Not knowing what engine you have I can't really suggest what it might be. But it could be a stuck fuel bowl float or needle/seat. If it doesn't fire on the ether then a compression check is the next step to see if it's a valve train problem.

 

[EKPhys]

Am I best to try the fluid right in the center of the air intake? So I pull the air cleaner cover and air filter and hit the fluid there while turning it over? Makes sense to me...

 

[mark1]

First I'd check for compression.If you don't have a compression tester pull the plug.move the spark plug wire out of the way and hold your thumb in the plug hole. Crank the engine a few spins. My bet it that it has a valve stuck open. either the valve seat in the head came loose, or the vlave guide in the head slipped down and wont let the valve close. Sometimes these engines after lots of use get the engine cooling fins plugged with grass and whatever,that reduces the flow of cooling air around the head,and the increased heat can cause the valve guide or seat to come loose. Either case it's not a bad job.to repair. If no compression,take the valve cover off,see if a pushrod came off or is bent. That's a sure sign of a valve problem. Where are you? Let us know

 

[EKPhys]

On quick test, I definitely feel pressure with the thumb test. But I only got 3-4 turns out of it without charging the battery. I'll try again tomorrow with more charge. If it feels like it's pressurizing, I'll start by replacing the plug and trying a bit of carb cleaner to see if I can get it to fire.

If yes, then I'll explore the fuel system. If no, then maybe pull the valve cover. What are the chances I can salvage the valve cover gasket that has likely never been off?

 

[EKPhys]

Aha. The choke plate was stuck closed. It appears that the black plastic spring holder has a piece broken off of it. The choke plate got jammed and bent. Anyone suppose I can replace just this spring holder?

 

[EKPhys]

Aha!!

 

[OldMachinist]

The choke shaft repair kit is part number 12-757-08 and the choke plate is 12-146-12. About $21 plus shipping for both from Parts and Diagrams for Cub Cadet 2135 Tractor S/N 326,006 & Up

Verify that I looked up the right parts list as I just guessed at your serial number.

 

[EKPhys]

New choke repair kit, $20. Starts like a charm! Choke lever still slips out a bit over time. But it runs great with the occasional Push off of the choke lever...