2008 kioti ck25hst no start , just clicks

[Deltayankee28]

A old trick was to hold the key switch in the start position for a good amount of time then feel the connection points for heat. If the connection gets hot that is a bad connection. The switch may be the problem. Also holding the switch over sometimes will make it start once things heat up.

I have to get someone to help me . But I'm gonna try that as well thank you

 

[Deltayankee28]

Hello to all, new here to this website. Please excuse me, but I have a question that I hope someone had experienced before and may be able to lend some advice please. 2008 ck25hst, ran perfect up until 2 months ago. Had the fuel injector pump rebuilt. Ran great again. Now I have a no start issue. Battery has checked out fine, brand new starter, and ignition switch. Every time I try to turn it over , I get the dreaded clicking almost buzzing sound. Checked terminals and tightened them . Still nothing! It is very frustrating, because I can usually figure stuff out. But this is kicking my butt. Cant keep throwing money at it that I dont have . Any help would be greatly appreciated for sure. Thank you

Ok , I have an update, the pro lem has been solved. It ended up being the positive terminal clamp. It had an aftermarket clamp ( the quick disconnect kind) that is soldered on to the positive cable. Well, over time apparently it corroded on the inside, and could not be seen just by looking at it. I attempted to crank it over several times. Tha cable itself got extremely hot and melted the wire sheath around the cable. I proceeded to remove the aftermarket clamp. Inside it was corroded where it was soldered into. I sanded down to bare wire, and put on a regular post clamp, lubricated it with dielectric grease. Tightened both clamps securely. Crossed my fingers, and it turned over and fired right up. I did it several more times to make sure. Something so simple . Well, now I have a new starter and ignition switch. Also, before I changed the ignition switch I had no glow plugs (glow plug light wouldn't come on) now everything seems to work as it should. Thank you to everyone for your guidance. It was greatly appreciated

 

[Robin Veerman]

Nice that you got the problem solved, and thanks for the update. Now go buy a new cable or better yet, replace both. Clean up the connections too and apply dielectric grease. You’ll be good for the next 20 years I bet.

 

[FarmerCliff]

Good to hear that you have it resolved.

Just a hint for others, if you have a similar problem try running a booster cable from the starter and touching the battery, if it cranks over fine then you can rule out some issues like battery, starter, solenoid, and ground.

For a while that is how I had to start my L3800, turn key to on, touch cable to battery until it started, leave it running until done work. Finally ran a solenoid to bypass the flakey factory wiring.

 

[tbarrick]

Problem with my LB 1910 was that the safety switch for the clutch which is on the right side of the frame, was not being fully engaged due to the detent tab getting bent. Adjusted the angle of the tab slightly with a BAH (BA hammer) and voila...no more click...just vroom.

 

[gdrew]

Between your ignition switch and your starter solenoid there could be a starter relay, usually located within a fuse block in cars and trucks. Check your schematics to see if you have one. If you find one try switching it out. I've also heard the contacts within ignition switch can cause this issue.

Have you tried jumping the high amperage contacts at the solenoid to see if the starter turns over the engine?

 

[gdrew]

Between your ignition switch and your starter solenoid there could be a starter relay, usually located within a fuse block in cars and trucks. Check your schematics to see if you have one. If you find one try switching it out. I've also heard the contacts within ignition switch can cause this issue.

Have you tried jumping the high amperage contacts at the solenoid to see if the starter turns over the engine?

Oops, how did I miss post #22...lol. Great job on finding the issue!

 

[Tony H]

THANKS for posting back. It helps everyone when we learn the cause

 

[hla]

I had this problem with my 3012 CK35hst. It was a problem in the ignition switch. I would click but if I wiggled the key it started. Changed the switch and everything worked perfectly. Hope this helps.

 

[puzlrock]

If the battery tests out to at least 12.8 volts it will be the cellinoid on the starter not working right, have had to replace many in my lifetime.

 

[TreeToad]

Really dumb question, did you CLEAN THE CONNECTIONS at the battery? Helped a guy stranded in a boat that would only click. We jumped it with a good battery from my boat and still clicked. He put my battery in his boat and it clicked. I asked him if he cleaned the terminals and his reply was yes they are tight. After an hour I said, humor me and disconnect the battery, use your knife and clean as best you can the posts and terminals and give that a try. He insisted that the connections were good. Again I ask him to clean the connections to shiny metal and he gave in and did it. Guess what? Tight connections arent always a good connection. A pocket knife solved the problem in this case. Just a suggestion.

 

[coast40]

Really dumb question, did you CLEAN THE CONNECTIONS at the battery? Helped a guy stranded in a boat that would only click. We jumped it with a good battery from my boat and still clicked. He put my battery in his boat and it clicked. I asked him if he cleaned the terminals and his reply was yes they are tight. After an hour I said, humor me and disconnect the battery, use your knife and clean as best you can the posts and terminals and give that a try. He insisted that the connections were good. Again I ask him to clean the connections to shiny metal and he gave in and did it. Guess what? Tight connections arent always a good connection. A pocket knife solved the problem in this case. Just a suggestion.

He solved it. The first step should always be to clean the batt connections, then cable ends. It is the easiest and probably most common solution to the clicking in my experience.

 

[lacritz]

OK I have a CK25HST that is a KIOTI I tell everyone I see, DO NOT BUY A KIOTI! Now the story. Purchased new. Problem 1, seat has a safety switch, was told by the dealer to stick a paper clip in the seat connector to bypass the safety switch,"this the only Kioti that does this!" Problem 2. was running and died. Clicking! No help from Kioti. Received a wirining diagram from the dealer's staff. A desel should run, does not need electric I thought after starting. There is a 5 Amp fuse in the fuse block, closest to the outside edge. It supplies power to the starter solonoid. If the fuse goes bad it turns off the engine even if running! I push the fuse back into the fuse holder and the engine starts! The hood has many loose and missing screws. I had to extend the engine guard with new bolts and spacers from tractor supply. Now I can open the hood without hitting the engine guard so I can push the fuse back into its holder! That is why I say DON'T BUY A KIOTI

 

[K5lwq]

OK I have a CK25HST that is a KIOTI I tell everyone I see, DO NOT BUY A KIOTI! Now the story. Purchased new. Problem 1, seat has a safety switch, was told by the dealer to stick a paper clip in the seat connector to bypass the safety switch,"this the only Kioti that does this!" Problem 2. was running and died. Clicking! No help from Kioti. Received a wirining diagram from the dealer's staff. A desel should run, does not need electric I thought after starting. There is a 5 Amp fuse in the fuse block, closest to the outside edge. It supplies power to the starter solonoid. If the fuse goes bad it turns off the engine even if running! I push the fuse back into the fuse holder and the engine starts! The hood has many loose and missing screws. I had to extend the engine guard with new bolts and spacers from tractor supply. Now I can open the hood without hitting the engine guard so I can push the fuse back into its holder! That is why I say DON'T BUY A KIOTI

No disrespect intended but all of these issues could happen to any brand and are easily corrected. Part of owning equipment.

 

[ptsg]

No disrespect intended but all of these issues could happen to any brand and are easily corrected. Part of owning equipment.

I agree. And if he is so mad at Kioti for those simple issues, he may aswell just stay without a tractor, of any brand.

 

[Russ5160]

Had the salmon problem with a new Holland Tc33d. Dealership said some of their tractors would have this starting issue. Engineering came up with diode set up. Maybe you can find info on this fix on a New Holland site.