2006(?) Cub Cadet RZT 50 Kohler - No Start / Wiring Help Needed

[johnny1234]

Just picked up an old RZT50 and I'm trying to diagnose a no-start issue on it.

First attempts at starting no clicks or engine turnover, but the PTO light would blink. After pulling the right cover we found that the PTO switch only had a blue wire and a red wire going to it, the blue ran off in to the harness and the red was tapped from the red of a component that looked like a relay zip-tied next to it. After pulling out that "relay" we discovered it was a second PTO switch and I honestly have no idea why someone would do that instead of just replacing the first switch assuming it was bad. We connected all the wires to one of the switches and now the PTO light functions as expected when PTO knob is up or down and key is on. Now the issue is the brake light is on when key is on, still no start, but can get engine to crank by jumping the solenoid posts. I manually pushed in what I thought is the brake switch just in case the parking brake wasn't engaging it properly, still no start/brake light on. I also noticed only one wire is connected to the seat switch, and the bracket on the seat that I think forces the two contacts to touch is not functioning properly so I'm thinking they grounded out that circuit elsewhere to bypass the switch?

I'm using a wiring schematic labeled 2006 RZT50, but I have no idea what year or model number this zero turn is. I'm assuming all that info was on the faded out sticker under the seat. I think it's a mid to late 2000s, and it has the Kohler engine. Looks identical to what I assume is the 2006 RZT50 KH(17AA5B7P) I've found in google image searches. Anyway, I'm a bit lost at this point on what the issue could be and I don't want to dive too far in to this without knowing for sure that the schematic I have is the right one.

 

[johnny1234]

Got the wiring sorted out. The seat switch is definitely bypassed somehow, but I've put a pin in that for now. The zip-tied second PTO switch is now properly installed, no more dash lights with key on, and key does attempt to start engine. No idea why they had two daisy chained like that, I'm guessing the first switch was bad and they felt it was easier to tap wires and somehow run both of them? No idea honestly. The brake light being on was user error. Since I had the right hand dash cover pulled the right lever wasn't hitting its switch so it was causing the brake light/no crank.

New problem is the engine is turning over extremely slow, not enough to fire. Has oil, has compression from what I can hear. Swapped over the good battery from my LTX1050(slightly lower ca/cca) and same issue. Put the first battery on my battery tender and will try again in a day or two, but at this point I'm thinking it's not the battery. Could a failing solenoid show that symptom, or maybe a failing ground connection somewhere?

 

[tomplum]

Welcome to TBN. On a Courage engine, though possible that excessive valve lash is excessive - it is more likely a lazy starter. The replacements have 20% more power than the original ever did when it was good.

 

[MossRoad]

Another thing to think about is that even though the PTO lights say it's not engaged, physiclally make sure it isn't and the starter is trying to turn everything over.

 

[johnny1234]

I'm running out to my parents house shortly where I have the zero turn stored to try jumping the battery negative to the starter/engine ground, to see if I'm fighting a poor grounding issue. If that doesn't make a difference I'll just order a new solenoid and starter for it, but I still don't know exactly what model of zero turn or engine I have and don't want to order the wrong parts. Any good source on replacement parts for these?

I can hear the PTO click when I pull/push the PTO switch so I've just been assuming that it is disengaged when the PTO switch is pushed down. How would I confirm that? Can I just look at the belt pulley on the PTO to see if it's trying to turn when I crank the engine? The deck is off.

 

[tomplum]

You could roll the deck belt off the PTO to remove that from the equation. Or roll the engine by hand and see if it turns. Putting the + jumper cable lead to the starter lug and momentarily grounding the - lead on the block or exhaust pipe will eliminate other guess work for now. Note that when you do this, you will get sparks- so a no no with a fuel leak should you have one. You could also remove the spark plugs, ground the leads and then crank the engine with your starter to see what happens. AT times getting the starter that has sat to spin without a load might give you enough to crank the engine with a load.

 

[johnny1234]

The battery had a green light on the battery tender today so I hooked it up and the engine did turn over a little faster, but still very sluggish and not quite enough to fire up. After several attempts at starting I noticed a wisp of smoke from the starter, and both battery cables were slightly warm. When I uninstalled the starter it was very warm. I'm guessing it's bad so I'll order a new one. Any suggestions on where to buy?

 

[tomplum]

Buy the OEM Starter. If you have a Courage twin, the number should be 32-098-08-S

 

[johnny1234]

I was in a bit of a rush to get the parts ordered so I just hit up ebay for a starter, solenoid, and a new air filter last night. Got them from reputable sellers and the starter has a warranty. Might be a few weeks before I get the parts or have an update.

 

[johnny1234]

Received the new starter, solenoid, spark plugs, oil filter, and fuel filter today. Started with just replacing the starter because I know the old one let the smoke out. Instant difference when turning over the engine, was a lot faster. After draining the old fuel and adding new fuel, replacing the plugs, replacing the fuel filter, and spraying out the carb real good with carb cleaner she fired right up and drove fine. I might need to tinker with the arms a bit, see if they can be adjusted at all to get them back in to sync, but other than that everything seems to work. Heading out in the morning to pick up a replacement deck shell I found on FB market since mine is rotted out pretty badly, and I'll also need to get rear tires for it. I did notice that one of the front wheels is sitting a little crooked so I'll have to pull that caster bracket and hammer it back straight.

Would it be OK to install a small LED light on the front of this zero turn, either on a switch I'd mount somewhere or on a switched 12v+ if I can find one to tap after the ignition switch? We sometimes mow a little late and the headlights of our current LTX1050 have come in handy many times, so I'd like to mount a light on the rzt50 if it's possible and won't cause any issues.