2005 Jinma 224 filter questions.

[TSMART]

I have the in-line "spin-on" hydraulic filter. Anybody know the number to get at the auto store?

Also, whats the number for the oil filter? No identifying marks on the original equipment. Thanks.

 

[TSMART]

I have the in-line "spin-on" hydraulic filter. Anybody know the number to get at the auto store?

Also, whats the number for the oil filter? No identifying marks on the original equipment. Thanks.

 

[RonMar]

If it is up near the hydraulic pump, it is on the suction side and I think you will find that that is a spin on Strainer and not a filter. A strainer usually has around #100 metal mesh/screen element and filters out particles down to around 150 Micron in size. A Hydraulic filter usually uses a cellulose filter element and filters to around 10-30 micron. A filter element is too restrictive for the suction side of a hydraulic pump and could damage the pump so be sure whatever domestic cartridge you try and put on there flows enough oil to keep the pump happy.

 

[RonMar]

If it is up near the hydraulic pump, it is on the suction side and I think you will find that that is a spin on Strainer and not a filter. A strainer usually has around #100 metal mesh/screen element and filters out particles down to around 150 Micron in size. A Hydraulic filter usually uses a cellulose filter element and filters to around 10-30 micron. A filter element is too restrictive for the suction side of a hydraulic pump and could damage the pump so be sure whatever domestic cartridge you try and put on there flows enough oil to keep the pump happy.

 

[TSMART]

OK now I am really confused. Check the pic. I know this thing says right on it OIL FILTER. It is not on the engine. If it is not a spin on hydraulic filter, what the heck is it????

Really need help here, just want to replace the (filter)....cause I now have 60 hours on it.

 

[TSMART]

OK now I am really confused. Check the pic. I know this thing says right on it OIL FILTER. It is not on the engine. If it is not a spin on hydraulic filter, what the heck is it????

Really need help here, just want to replace the (filter)....cause I now have 60 hours on it.

 

[TSMART]

Here's another pic.....

 

[TSMART]

Here's another pic.....

 

[scottie]

try a Napa 1614 this is a 141 micron HYDRAULIC filter [strainer] designed to go in the suction line. It is the same as a WIX 51614 only cheaper [but made by Wix!] /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[scottie]

try a Napa 1614 this is a 141 micron HYDRAULIC filter [strainer] designed to go in the suction line. It is the same as a WIX 51614 only cheaper [but made by Wix!] /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[RonMar]

Regardless of what it says in english, I would still bet on it being a strainer element inside that can. Hydraulic pumps are really great at taking hydraulic fluid and pressureizing it to transfer energy. They are not so good at drawing fluid with a vacume. These pumps are cooled by the fluid that flows through them so restrictions on the inlet can lead to overheating of the pump. Air is far more likley to enter the suction side of a system under vacume than a system with a little static pressure from the head level of the fluid in the resovoir. Air being drawn into a pump is also hard on it as the little bubbles cause cavitation inside the pump and this will erode the impeller/gears/vanes. This material that is worn off flows downstream to collect in other areas of the system.

Here is a link to a Northern Hydraulics website page that show both return line filters(around 30 micron used after the last valve in the system and filters the fluid before it is returned to the resovoir) and spin on suction strainers. I don't know if the spin on suction strainer that Horthern sells will fit your base, but if you get the measurements off yours(thread size/pitch, seal size and media type), you could call them and ask. Without the accurate specs on the cannister that you have on there, you may have problems matching up a domestic filter. My suggestions would be to:
1. Order a replacement chinese part and install it, then cut your old one in two and identify the filter media being used, then try and match up to something domestic using measurements from the old canister.
2. Replace the entire cartridge and spin-on base with the spin-on suction strainer assembly sold by Northern, then you could use replacement cartriges from them.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatDsp?storeId=6970&N=96+4294967130&Ne=2000001

Good Luck

 

[RonMar]

Regardless of what it says in english, I would still bet on it being a strainer element inside that can. Hydraulic pumps are really great at taking hydraulic fluid and pressureizing it to transfer energy. They are not so good at drawing fluid with a vacume. These pumps are cooled by the fluid that flows through them so restrictions on the inlet can lead to overheating of the pump. Air is far more likley to enter the suction side of a system under vacume than a system with a little static pressure from the head level of the fluid in the resovoir. Air being drawn into a pump is also hard on it as the little bubbles cause cavitation inside the pump and this will erode the impeller/gears/vanes. This material that is worn off flows downstream to collect in other areas of the system.

Here is a link to a Northern Hydraulics website page that show both return line filters(around 30 micron used after the last valve in the system and filters the fluid before it is returned to the resovoir) and spin on suction strainers. I don't know if the spin on suction strainer that Horthern sells will fit your base, but if you get the measurements off yours(thread size/pitch, seal size and media type), you could call them and ask. Without the accurate specs on the cannister that you have on there, you may have problems matching up a domestic filter. My suggestions would be to:
1. Order a replacement chinese part and install it, then cut your old one in two and identify the filter media being used, then try and match up to something domestic using measurements from the old canister.
2. Replace the entire cartridge and spin-on base with the spin-on suction strainer assembly sold by Northern, then you could use replacement cartriges from them.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatDsp?storeId=6970&N=96+4294967130&Ne=2000001

Good Luck

 

[TSMART]

Thanks Scottie.

I intend to do the Kerosene flush maintenance as posted in these pages.

Since there is little info on these late model Jinmas, should I change this filter(strainer) as part of the 50 hour maint?

And if I do replace it should I run/flush the kerosene through the system BEFORE changing the filter??

or should I replace the filter just before filling with new hydro fluid?


Thanks.

 

[TSMART]

Thanks Scottie.

I intend to do the Kerosene flush maintenance as posted in these pages.

Since there is little info on these late model Jinmas, should I change this filter(strainer) as part of the 50 hour maint?

And if I do replace it should I run/flush the kerosene through the system BEFORE changing the filter??

or should I replace the filter just before filling with new hydro fluid?


Thanks.

 

[TSMART]

ron...thanks...
Do I have to worry about introducing air into the system by changing that strainer? If so can I bleed the air out?? How??

 

[TSMART]

ron...thanks...
Do I have to worry about introducing air into the system by changing that strainer? If so can I bleed the air out?? How??

 

[RonMar]

You will introduce air into the system by replacing that filter, but thats normal. In a properly flowing system, this air will be passed right on through and will ultimatly make it to the resovoir where it will separate from the oil. What you want to avoid is a steady stream of air bubbles being introduced over time through a leak. You will probably want to swap out that filter quickly or when the resovoir is empty as it is below/downstream and will probably dump quite a bit of oil untill you get the new filter on.

As for the flush, I would do it Before you swap out that cannister as you will probably kick up a bunch of crud that will land in that strainer.

 

[RonMar]

You will introduce air into the system by replacing that filter, but thats normal. In a properly flowing system, this air will be passed right on through and will ultimatly make it to the resovoir where it will separate from the oil. What you want to avoid is a steady stream of air bubbles being introduced over time through a leak. You will probably want to swap out that filter quickly or when the resovoir is empty as it is below/downstream and will probably dump quite a bit of oil untill you get the new filter on.

As for the flush, I would do it Before you swap out that cannister as you will probably kick up a bunch of crud that will land in that strainer.

 

[TSMART]

I really would like to thank you guys for setting me straight!!!

THANKS!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[TSMART]

I really would like to thank you guys for setting me straight!!!

THANKS!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif