2005 4110 4WD Fail

BillBee · Apr 24, 2016

Recently when operating the tractor I heard a loud pop or bang and then lost 4WD capability. Troubleshooting, I disconnected the 4WD rod assembly, from the 4WD shift lever to the Arm Plate Comp mechanism on the transmission. With the tractor raised off the ground and running in low gear, I manually engaged the Arm Plate Comp mechanism, engaging the 4WD fork assembly and I can feel and hear it engage into gear. I then opened up the Tube Comp encasing, exposing the front drive Shaft Propeller from the transmission to the front axle and again engaged the 4WD, and the drive Shaft Propeller does NOT rotate. Now with the tractor off, raised and manually turning the front wheels, the exposed drive Shaft Propeller from transmission to the front axle does rotate.

I am correct in thinking the front drive Shaft Propeller should be rotating when the tractor is in 4WD, raised, running and engaged, and the failure is likely in the transmission and not the front axle? If so, does the tractor need to be split for this repair? Tractor was just split for a new clutch installation within the last 100 hours.

Thanks,
Bill

dickfoster · Apr 27, 2016

BillBee said:
Recently when operating the tractor I heard a loud pop or bang and then lost 4WD capability. Troubleshooting, I disconnected the 4WD rod assembly, from the 4WD shift lever to the Arm Plate Comp mechanism on the transmission. With the tractor raised off the ground and running in low gear, I manually engaged the Arm Plate Comp mechanism, engaging the 4WD fork assembly and I can feel and hear it engage into gear. I then opened up the Tube Comp encasing, exposing the front drive Shaft Propeller from the transmission to the front axle and again engaged the 4WD, and the drive Shaft Propeller does NOT rotate. Now with the tractor off, raised and manually turning the front wheels, the exposed drive Shaft Propeller from transmission to the front axle does rotate.

I am correct in thinking the front drive Shaft Propeller should be rotating when the tractor is in 4WD, raised, running and engaged, and the failure is likely in the transmission and not the front axle? If so, does the tractor need to be split for this repair? Tractor was just split for a new clutch installation within the last 100 hours.

Thanks,
Bill

That's the conclusion, I'd come to. Unless it's a shift linkage, apparently you have to split the tractor for almost any sort of tranny work.

RalphVa · Apr 27, 2016

I agree with dickfoster.

I had the main driveshaft come in two on my 4010 @ 660 hours and about 9 years. Think there's like a donut up near the engine followed by a U joint to the HST (not gear like yours). The donut blew apart.

Ralph

RalphVa · Apr 27, 2016

Sorry. Mine's JD. Just noticed yours is a Mahindra.

Ralph

skipmarcy · Apr 27, 2016

Bill - If you've got the outer tube collapsed around the front driveshaft you'll see on each end a collar held in it's place with a circlip. This collar is splined and connects the driveshaft to the output shaft at the trans and the same on the differential end up front. It's possible one of those collars have split although mine never has. I usually bust a front axle or countershaft in one of the outdrives. You can move that circlip with snapring pliers and that collar will slide up the driveshaft and let it come out of there. Now you can see the splined shaft coming out of the trans and confirm if it is turning. I've also had the rear bearing go out on the 4wd shaft inside the transmissions. That requires a rear split - a more in depth job than a front split for a clutch. That 4wd shaft runs thru both transmissions back to the rear differential - the pinion gear has a gear on it's shaft that a sliding gear on the 4wd shaft engages with the shift fork. This is a very simple mechanism, no synchronizer or anything. The 4wd shaft is splined where the sliding gear rides on it. You have to be very careful engaging and disengaging 4wd on the 4110 as it will bend the shift fork very easily and cause big problems. I've replaced mine a couple of times, they aren't expensive, just have to drain the hydraulic fluid to change it. You can remove the shifter assy from the trans and see a little inside with a mirror and flashlite. On mine, the rear bearing that supports the 4wd shaft came apart in the rear diff housing right next to the pinion - the bearing cost me $6 at NAPA but it took days to do the job. A rear split is very involved - you have to align 4 or 5 shafts etc. as you roll the the halves back together and it is very, very tedious, especially by yourself. All the while you have silicone sealer to seal the two halves that you are trying not to disturb - no gaskets here !! If you don't get a perfect seal, your hydraulic fluid won't stay in it ...

BillBee · Apr 29, 2016

Skipmarcy, you were right! The C-Type Stop Ring circlip released, allowing the drive Shaft Propeller Coupling to slide forward and disconnect, causing the 4WD fail. Nothing was broke. Why the Stop Ring circlip released is anyone’s guess. I cleaned, inspected and reassembled it back together; all seems fine.

I had the front-end loader and backhoe off and the tractor chained on a recently purchased trailer ready for the 75-mile haul to a NH dealer for another split, I thought. I was convinced it was in the trans. You have helped me in the past, in fact, I clearly remember your tractor issues and your inconceivable knowledge and had searched your user name and reread all prior post that were related to this a few nights ago. Your suggestion to this problem made sense and had me wondering and I wanted to see the gear shaft from the trans not spin when engaged. So, pulled the tractor off, put the loader and backhoe back on, raised the tractor about a foot off the ground, climbed underneath, pulled it apart and discovered the problem.

Thank you for your clear easy to follow suggestion, as you were spot on, which saved me aggravation and a bunch of cash.

Also, thanks to all that had responded.