2001 TC40D very weak!

[Summdude]

Hey everyone! First post so bare with me... I just bought a 2001 NH TC40D with 1500 hrs on it. When I went to check out the tractor, it ran great! Lots of power, idled smoothly... When I get home I noticed it was idle surging a little. I decided to change all the fluids and filters and it all went good. After changing, I took it for a test ride and it seemed like it had no power whatsoever! I started up my hill which is not steep at all and bogged down and cut off. I thought maybe it was in to high of a gear so I restarted in low range but again it bogged down as if it didn't have the power to get up the hill. I'm sure this is not normal.... Hope I didn't buy a big lawn ornament.

 

[the old grind]

Symptom sounds familiar. If any of those filter changes included the fuel filter (by you or the PO) you may only have to bleed the pump and/or injectors. If the filter is due for a change, do it right once & be sure that's not the problem.

Because I changed mine without bleeding at the pump per the manual when doing my 50 hr service :mur: I had to bleed at the lifters too. That said, on the Shibaura N843L there is a line tying them together at the head & I only had to crack one loose to release the magic bubbles. Mere seconds of run time after that it was OK.

:welcome:

 

[Summdude]

Yes indeed it did..... I guess this is the part I left out b/c I felt really stupid afterwards. I changed the fuel filter and put the bowl back on. A small amount of fuel filled the bowl and I thought to myself that more should have back filled, maybe if I started the engine it would naturally want to fill. Well hindsight it is 20/20.... I'm a big dummy. It ran out and quit, I kick myself. I loosened the bowl and bled the air out. Then while my beautiful wife cranked the tractor I used a trick I once saw my grandpa use. I put my hand over the fuel fill port and stick the air hose under my hand. It spit and sputtered but I finally got it running. So that being said, I'm sure you are right. Thank you so much. When I get home from work I'll try it and let you know how it worked out. :thumbsup:

 

[dave1949]

If purging he air from the fuel lines and injectors doesn't clear it up, the next place to look would be junk accumulated in the fuel tank causing a blockage. That can be diagnosed by blowing air back through the fuel line to the tank--with the fuel tank cap off.

Do the 2001 TC's not have a bleeder screw on the injector body? My 2003 has a hex cap screw that is cracked open a couple turns to bleed the fuel system after a filter change, or running out of fuel, although that isn't always necessary. It isn't obvious what the bleeder screw is for just by looking at it, it just looks like another bolt head. If it is there, it should be pointed out in a diagram in the operator's manual.

 

[Summdude]

Good to know about the tank.... that was one of things that my friend said he runs into from time to time. I'll check that out as well.

As far as a operator's manual, I wish I had one! I have been looking around and haven't been able to track one down. I looked through some of the older forum post and some had suggestions on where to look but most of the links are dead. Any help would be great, I know that is money well spent.

 

[dave1949]

Here is a useful site, and a good source of NH mail order parts. Good people and a TBN supporting advertiser.

Object moved

Open: Engine (01)
Open: (01.13.02) Fuel Injection Pump and Lines
The bleeder is part# 31 in inset detail 'A'.

As you look at the injection pump standing at the side of the tractor, the bleeder is top-center on the assembly with fuel piping running to it.

From the operator's manual:
Has auto-bleed which should exhaust air if engine is cranking.
Should bleed easily if fuel filter bowl is full.
If the fuel filter bowl fills slowly there is likely a blockage in the return vent lines. ???

Manually bleed the fuel system if:
it has been drained
a new fuel filter is installed
tractor ran out of fuel
lines to or from filter have been disconnected
the injection pump has been replaced

To bleed:
adequate fuel in tank
open fuel shut-off valve (at filter)
open bleed screw at the pump until air-free fuel flows, then close
push hand throttle to high speed
crank engine for a few seconds to bleed high pressure fuel tubes

To bleed injector lines: (I've never had to do this)
loosen injector line fittings at the injector (not on the pump)
set hand throttle to wide open
crank engine until air-free fuel flows from each connection
tighten fittings to 18-22 ft. lbs.
DO NOT crank more than 30 seconds to avoid starter damage

Repeat the above steps as needed if air is not purged. :laughing:

My Operator's Manual has part# 86620668 10/00 (Oct 2000). It covers TC35-40-45 models. It is a very useful manual so, if you can get your hands on one it would be worth it. I don't think NH keeps them on-line which seems to be more common lately for many products.

 

[Summdude]

All the more reason why I need to track down a operators manual. I went out and did some bleeding. I actually bled the injector tube.... No difference but I didn't really know the correct sequence either. Now that I know which bolt is the line bleeder, I'll go out and give it a try. I almost think I should air on the side of caution and check that pre filter in the tank. The fuel filter I pulled out was BAD! This leads me to believe the tank is full of debris.

Thanks for the link.... It is a really good site! Even better that it has an easy to use app for the phone so I can reference the parts while under the tractor.

 

[barbqranch]

Have you tried eBay for a manual? That is where I got mine.

 

[Summdude]

I checked a few times with no luck. Haven't checked within the last week.

 

[dave1949]

Gunk in the fuel tank has been a not uncommon problem in past fuel issues posted. Makes sense to suspect that if the filter was crudded-up.