2 in receiver shackle/ clevis for tow straps and chains

   / 2 in receiver shackle/ clevis for tow straps and chains #1  

diesel lover

Platinum Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2013
Messages
643
Location
whites town indiana
Tractor
Ferg. To 20, 1956 Massey F. MF 25 diesel, Ferg. 40, 1944 John D. A, 1965 cockshutt 40,
Anyone ever make one of these ?

image-3022867690.jpg

If so I would like to see. I was thinking of buying one, and that one at menards seen in the picture above for 30$. Has an 8000 pound rating.

http://www.carid.com/universal-trai...cagpspn=pla"&gclid=CLXH5YuX2LwCFfFDMgodlxkAbw the smitty built hitch is built to pull up to 10,000 pounds but looks the same.
Should I build one or purchase one? Thanks !!
 
   / 2 in receiver shackle/ clevis for tow straps and chains #2  
I have the HF version, works ok rated for 10,000 lbs. D-Ring Receiver Hitch Its on sale for $10 can't go wrong for that price if you are only going to use it occasionally.
 
   / 2 in receiver shackle/ clevis for tow straps and chains
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Yeah I have some menards money to spend so I might buy the one they have there.
 
   / 2 in receiver shackle/ clevis for tow straps and chains #4  
Big difference between the way the two are made,

one is a light tube (HF) and a weldament and a clevis/D ring is considerably lighter than the smitty built unit solid square tube, and a rated clevis/D ring,

now do you need the heaver unit I do not know, but I would trust the smitty over the HF, unit.

as far as building one drill two holes in a 2 inch tube or square shaft, (check to make sure it fits the receiver first) and find a clevis/D ring that has a two inch mouth,

or take the tube drill one hole and get a piece of round (I will say 5/8" heat and bend around some thing 2" cut and weld it on the tube, make the hole long enough to slip a chain through,

I think I would prefer the clevis over the weld on loop, but both would work.

and possibly weld a chain hook, on the tube as well, so it has a convenient way to hook a chain on,
Buyers Products Weld-On Grab Hook — Fits 3/8in. Chain | Towing Hooks| Northern Tool + Equipment

I have a old truck some one welded a few hooks on the hitch is nice,
 
   / 2 in receiver shackle/ clevis for tow straps and chains #5  
I have not built one but I have three of them mounted on f-250's that see a lot of use. These trucks weigh 8-9k with all the equipment on them and they get stuck a lot and get pulled out using these all the time. They work great. For the price of them you have a hard time building your own for cheaper once you bought the clevis. I bought mine at tractor supply about five years ago. Not sure of brand.
 
   / 2 in receiver shackle/ clevis for tow straps and chains #6  
Btw not recommended to use chain. If it breaks the free end can whip and kill someone. Better to use recovery strap.
 
   / 2 in receiver shackle/ clevis for tow straps and chains #7  
any kind of tow device, is dangerous if it breaks, rope, chain, cable, tow strap can all be deadly if it breaks,

(I personally do not see as much energy being stored up in a chain as in straps and tow ropes),

I have broke more than my share of chains and as of yet never had them snap,
my son was trying to winching a dead machine on to his trailer and some thing failed and the cable threw a 35 to 45 pound snatch block through the cab of the machine he was trying to load, luckily no one was in the way or they would have been dead,
many years ago the local tractor dealership was moving a tractor or trying to pull start it, not sure, but they had a tow rope (big rope), some how the bolt/pin in the clevis worked it way out of the towed tractors attachment, and the rope snapped and the pin, when through he back of the cab window of the towed tractor, and in one of the drivers eyes and lodged behind the other, severing the optic nerve, I think he has just graduated high school, never did see after that,

so how or what ever you tow with do not skimp and use locking/pined shackles, and keep clear of any towing or pulling, device.

be careful and use common sense and keep clear, and do not skimp on proper attachment points.
 
   / 2 in receiver shackle/ clevis for tow straps and chains
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I always use my 2 inch by 20 foot stretch N snatch recovery strap. It stretches so you can yank on it very hard. You should never use one with ball hitches, and never use on anything you think could come off like around a bumper.

I'm not one to use chains, my strap has a strength of 18,000 pounds and break strength of 7,000 pounds. It will do mostly anything I need it to.

IF nothing else and something doesn't go through and I don't have a strap only a chain I can and will use a chain but I will not yank or yank hard on a chain. A chain being yanked on does not multiply energy. Straps and ropes do because they stretch !!

I wanted to get a 2 inch receiver shackle because it's quick and easy. I recovered a van from the ditch last Friday and I had a ball hitch very tight on my normal reciver hitch. I used my ball hitch with lots of caution, I zip tied my strap onto the neck of the ball hitch to insure it would stay there. It does not help anything to remove my ball from my hitch because I will need to tow a trailer with the ball tight on the hitch.

After I needed pulled up a GLAZED ice hill this winter I decided having two receiver hitches is the best option. One for towing trailers (etc), and one with a 3/4 or one inch shackle for vehicle towing and recovery.

I know what a 3 inch shackle can and will do!! I trust most 3/4 inch shackles but I change to a larger shackle if needed. A one inch shackle can do most task without breaking.

The large issue with a harbor freight design is it cannot have any side load not even a few degrees. I find it dangerous for any recovery or use age. I will not go less than a 3/4 inch shackle.

Between the smitty built and menards receiver hitches why is one rated for 10k and one for 8k. Are they tested in a factory or what exactly? What determines the rating? Is that max vehicle weight?
 
   / 2 in receiver shackle/ clevis for tow straps and chains #9  
Btw not recommended to use chain. If it breaks the free end can whip and kill someone. Better to use recovery strap.

Not tryin to pick a fight. Just need to clarify this.

A chain is the safest of three, chain, cable, stretch strap/rope. Chain will drop to the ground if broken.

Cable will recoil enough to make it dangerous. Safe way is to throw a coat or blanket over the cable somewhere in the middle. The weight of it will cause the cable to fall to the ground rather than swing in the air.

Stretch strap/rope is the most dangerous to use. If the ends stay fastened and it simply fails in the middle, it'll recoil but will do little damage because there's no weight.

Also, never use a chain with a rope. Never use a strap/rope with hooks on the end. Never use a steel clevis to fasten two straps/ropes together. All of those things become missiles if things go bad. Never stand in the recoil path of anything. Never allow spectators to be any closer than the length of the tow device.

Use a strap/rope enough times and you will see things go bad. Winch/Pull safely Gentleman, someone's life depends on it!!!!

So with all that said, cobble up a receiver shackle/clevis or buy a cheap one and you just increased your chances of failure and possibly injury.
 
   / 2 in receiver shackle/ clevis for tow straps and chains #10  
Hmm...I'm willing to be wrong. I don't know. I was just going by what I was taught. I guess the main thing is to be careful and keep people away.

I like to make stuff b u t I would go for something along the lines of the Smitty built store bought unit for this application.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2017 Ford F-250 XLT Pickup Truck (A44789)
2017 Ford F-250...
2003 Subaru Outback AWD Sedan (A42744)
2003 Subaru...
2005 GREAT DANE TRAILER GREAT DANE TRAILER (A45046)
2005 GREAT DANE...
2014 Dodge Grand Caravan Van (A42744)
2014 Dodge Grand...
CHECO HYDRAULIC GREASE INJECTION UNIT (A45333)
CHECO HYDRAULIC...
2008 INTERNATIONAL L9227 (A45046)
2008 INTERNATIONAL...
 
Top